Hilton Checkers Los Angeles Rating: 4.0 Pearls

Downtown, Los Angeles, California

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The view from the pool deck

At the turn of the century downtown Los Angeles was filled with impressive hotels. But as the neighborhood declined, most of these classic buildings were turned into "single-room occupancy" properties for the homeless. The 188-room Hilton Checkers and its neighbor, the Biltmore, survived downtown's leanest years and have been fully renovated. The Checkers is a scaled-down version of the grandiose Biltmore, but both are majestic -- twin classics that preserve a sense of the long history of the neighborhood.

The lobby is small by modern luxury standards, but the dark hardwood detailing gives it warm and inviting feel. The adjacent bar is dark, plush, and sexy like an exclusive lounge -- a great place to take a date for a couple of martinis. Standard rooms are also on the small side, about 300 square feet on average, but the furnishings are solid and tasteful and the bedding is extremely comfortable.

The small rooftop pool deck, with a small plunge pool and Jacuzzi and dizzying views, is a highlight. Lying in the Jacuzzi at night staring at the glow of office towers in the near distance is a sublime experience. (Unfortunately the pool closes at 10 p.m.)

The Checkers feels as luxurious as a more modern downtown hotel like the Omni, which is just a few blocks away and also caters to a lot of business travelers. And the Checkers even has an impressive number of luxury features for a place of its size and age. What makes the Checkers unique, however, is its discreet, hideway-like atmosphere. For many, that will more than compensate for the relatively small rooms.

• Two doormen out front at all times
• 24-hour concierge is very helpful; I arrived several hours before 3 p.m. check-in and an available room was found immediately.
• Turndown service by request for VIP and Hilton loyalty members only

View on a Larger Map

Located at the bottom of Bunker Hill in Los Angeles' downtown financial district, in a low-rise stretch next to the restored, historic Central Library, the Hilton Checkers feels fairly private and secluded. It's a great location for travelers who want to check out L.A.'s art scene, the Lakers and the Dodgers, and see rock concerts. The ride to LAX airport is a straight shot down the 110 freeway and can take 20 minutes with no traffic. If you want to visit Los Angeles for sunshine, beaches, celebrity sightings, basically to catch the glitzy movie star experience, you're probably better off staying in Hollywood and Beverly Hills.

• Walt Disney Concert Hall and the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion are about 8 blocks away.
• Little Tokyo, about 15 blocks away, is one of L.A.'s best kept secrets, especially for foodies who love fresh sushi and sashimi in an authentic setting.
• Staples Center (where the Lakers play) is about 10 blocks away.
• Dodger's Stadium is three miles north on the 110 freeway, or about a 15 minute drive.
• Los Angeles International Airport (LAX) is a 20- to 30-minute drive in low to moderate traffic.
• Pershing Square Metro station is two blocks away.

A standard room

According to hotel managment, standard rooms, called "Deluxe Rooms," are on average 300 square feet, but mine was much smaller -- cramped even. That issue aside, the rooms are freshly renovated, luxurious, and well-equipped, with huge marble desks; wonderfully comfortable ergonomic leather desk chairs; and supremely comfortable beds with 300-thread-count sheets, down comforters, and down pillows.

The bathrooms feel rich and opulent despite being tiny. The views are also great. My one complaint was the scarcity of electric outlets in the room, none of them near the desk.

• 27-inch flat-screen TV
• Crabtree and Evelyn bath products
• Fresh flowers in bathroom every day
• No refrigerator or minibar
• No water glasses in room
• No fan in bath, which gets foggy after a hot shower

The pool

Though a boutique, Checkers has many of the amenities of a full-service hotel.

• The rooftop plunge pool is just long enough (about 15 feet) to do short laps; the Jacuzzi is a real treat; large enough to fit a dozen soakers and positioned to have great views.
• The small but clean fitness room on the roof (with windows overlooking the city) has four aerobic machines and a small rack of dumbells.
• The spa, located next the gym on the roof, has a steam room and sauna and offers a full-range of treatments.
• The lobby lounge is lively.
• The business center is small -- just a single terminal and a fax machine in an alcove.

• 48 rooms contain two beds, but are still pretty small for a family.
• The rooftop pool, with it's scary railing, will cause many parents to worry.
• Free cribs and rollaways
• Free mini-fridges available on request

The 2009 overhaul of the rooms and the restaurant makes the Hilton Checkers look and feel new.

Checkers restaurant

Gourmet magazine once rated Checkers the seventh-best restaurant in L.A. It serves a $12.75 Continental breakfast, a $19 prix fixe lunch, and a $30 prix fixe dinner. The menu is heavy on the meat and fish.

• Other options within walking distance include foodie mecca Bottega Louie