Millennium Biltmore Hotel Los Angeles Rating: 3.5 Pearls

Downtown, Los Angeles, California

Bette Davis, in the Biltmore's heyday

When the Biltmore opened, in 1923, it was the largest hotel west of Chicago. It quickly became a Southern California institution, hosting eight Academy Awards ceremonies in the '30s and '40s. (Check out the photos in the Historic Corridor, off the lobby.) But then the Oscars moved, and so did the rest of the action, and downtown Los Angeles devolved into a veritable ghost town, a designation it has only recently -- and only partially -- shed. (See Location, below.)

The Biltmore, meanwhile, remained an icon. In 1969, it was designated a Historic Cultural Landmark by the city (you can find the plaque near the side entrance: "Milestone in the Significant Architectural, Economic and Cultural Development of Los Angeles"). The hotel's press packet includes an exhaustive 11-page list of every movie (Wedding Crashers, Spider-Man, Ocean's Eleven), TV show (Mad Men, 24, The West Wing), miniseries, movie-of-the-week, reality show, commercial, music video, and photo shoot ever filmed on the premises. The Ghostbusters caught their first spook -- remember the slimer? -- in the Biltmore's ballroom. The week of my stay, Ewan McGregor was shooting a film at the hotel.

And yet the Biltmore no longer feels very glamorous. The hotel was renovated in 1987, but that was the last major renewal. That outdatedness manifests itself most noticeably in the rooms, which, aside from periodic updates in technology, bedding, and the like, are now more dowdy than atmospheric. For example, in 2012, the hotel announced that it would soon be embarking on a two-to-three year renovation that would include restoring the historic ceiling plaster work in the lobby and replacing carpeting in the hallways. By comparison, the historic Hilton Checkers, right across the street, recently underwent a massive renovation, and now bests the Biltmore in almost every facet. If you need to be downtown, you might also try the Omni or the Westin Bonaventure, both of which are similarly priced yet boast superior rooms.

The Biltmore won't impress you with its service the way some of its more luxurious neighbors might (the Omni and Hilton Checkers come to mind), but they handle the basics well.

• Concierge on duty daily
• Room service available throughout the day
• Occasionally long/slow lines at check-in and checkout

View on a Larger Map

Located downtown, amid the city's only skyscrapers, the Biltmore is great for travelers who want to check out the city's art scene or catch the Lakers or Kings (at the nearby Staples Center), the Dodgers, or a rock concert. But it's sleepy at night and on weekends, and if you're visiting L.A. for sunshine, beaches, or Hollywood (actual or proverbial), you're better off staying in a different neighborhood.

• Walt Disney Concert Hall and the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion are about eight blocks away.
• Staples Center, where the Lakers, Clippers, and Kings play, is about 10 blocks away.
• Dodgers Stadium is three miles north on the 110 freeway, a 15-minute drive.
• The airport (LAX) is a 20- to 30-minute drive in low to moderate traffic.
• Pershing Square Metro station is two blocks away.
• The hotel is part of the Pacific Center, home to a Quiznos, Starbucks, and FedEx-Kinkos, along with several indie shops and restaurants.
• Little Tokyo, about 15 blocks away, is one of L.A.'s best kept secrets, especially for foodies who love fresh sushi and sashimi in an authentic setting.

A Standard Room on the Executive Floor

There's nothing terribly wrong with the rooms at the Biltmore -- yours will most likely be reasonably clean and reasonably comfortable, and they're spacious enough. But they don't hold up against those of its competitors downtown, namely the Hilton Checkers, Omni, and Westin Bonaventure. The main problem is that they haven't been fully renovated since 1987. Those 20-plus years reveal themselves less in the cleanliness issues, which are minor (some mildew stains in the shower, small nicks on the furniture), than in what the rooms lack compared to more modern ones. Outlets, for instance. There aren't enough of them in the rooms, especially near the desks. Or double-paned windows, which have never been installed. Thus, noise is an issue. (To the Biltmore's credit, they leave ear plugs on the nightstand.) The showers, meanwhile, resemble college-dorm showers. There wasn't even enough shelf space to place shampoo or conditioner alongside the soap.

• Standard rooms run 325 square feet -- about average for L.A. Executive-floor (8th & 9th) rooms, like mine, are a little bigger.
• Decent beds with Sealy Posturepedic Celestial CSS Plush mattresses and brand new bedding: soft pillows and 55 percent cotton linens with mattress covers and duvets
• 37-inch Samsung flat-screen TVs with about 20 channels
• Fast, reliable Wi-Fi, but it is charged per day
• Alarm clocks with iPod connection
• Coffee machine and complimentary tea and coffee
• Some bathrooms include bathtubs.
• Hotel brand bath products
• Tip: The upgrade to club-level rooms is worthwhile. You get bottled water, turndown service, complimentary breakfast, choice of morning newspaper, and access to the club lounge.

The fitness center

As a hotel that caters largely to corporate travelers, the Biltmore puts a big emphasis on its business-related amenities. Boasting 17 meeting and banquet rooms and 70,000 square feet of total space, the hotel hosts dozens of events per year, big and small. The non-business highlight is the Roman-style indoor pool and Jacuzzi. Like the hotel itself, the pool area has seen better days, and it could use more regular upkeep -- used towels were strewn about when I was there -- but it's a pleasant enough place to take a quick dip or swim some short laps.

• Indoor pool open daily.
• For more on the meeting/event space, click here.
• Large fitness center with plenty of cardio machines, free weights, and strength-training machines, but the equipment is out of date.
• Good business center with half a dozen PCs, printers, even an electric typewriter for those conducting business in 1979; Internet costs extra.
• Valet parking is pricey -- expensive even for L.A.

At the least, they'll like the pool

Because of its grand-old-dame atmosphere (antiquish furniture, conservative decor), financial-district location, and large number of corporate guests, the Biltmore isn't ideal for families. Still, there's no reason in particular not to take the kids. At the least, they'll like the pool.

• Most kid-friendly restaurant is Smeraldi's.
• Rollaway beds and cribs available, but are charged per night.
• For a roundup L.A.'s kid-friendliest hotels, click here.

A gift from housekeeping

Overall, everything was tidy, functional, and hygienic, but the Biltmore hasn't been fully renovated since the mid-1980s -- an eternity by major-hotel standards. Some of issues include:

• Mildew stains in the shower
• Broken shutter in the room
• Small dents and scratches on the furniture in the room
• A hairpin and a penny (left for luck, perhaps?) on the floor in the room
• Some litter in the hallways
• Stray towels by the pool and in the locker rooms

Breakfast at Smeraldi's

The hotel's website lists three restaurants (Smeraldi's, La Bistecca, and Sai Sai), but Smeraldi's is the only place that serves breakfast and La Bistecca is open only for dinner, so the options aren't as extensive as they may seem. The hotel further confuses the issue by tossing in a fourth name, the Rendezvous Court, which is actually just the site for afternoon tea at La Bistecca. As for the food itself, sushi at Sai Sai wasn't great -- a bit warm -- and breakfast at Smeraldi's was mediocre. Eating off-site might be wise, but there aren't a whole lot of options in this part of town.

• La Bistecca is a new high-end steakhouse helmed by two native-born Italians; open for dinner. For menu and prices, click here.
• Sai Sai serves Japanese fare at reasonable prices; open for lunch and dinner. The restaurant shifted its focus from sushi to noodle dishes in 2012; it now features Vietnamese pho and Japanese udon and ramen.
• Smeraldi's offers a la carte and buffet breakfasts.
• Nearby, not too much -- mostly fast food (Carl's Jr., Quiznos) and restaurants at other hotels (Hilton Checkers, Westin Bonaventure, etc.)