Canyon Ranch Hotel & Spa Miami Beach Rating: 4.5 Pearls

North Beach, Miami, Florida

Relaxed atmosphere

Dorothy, we're not in Kansas anymore. As at other high-end Miami resorts, there are the Lamborghinis and Ferraris parked out front, and the usual, super-attentive service. (A porter grabbed my bags and greeted me by name before I'd even paid for my taxi.)

But it soon became clear that this would be a different kind of Miami experience. At check-in, I wasn't offered a cocktail but instead hibiscus tea. Check-in itself is a lengthy sit-down procedure. There's a gym class schedule and a spa map to go over. And guests must sign a document saying they won't smoke in their room or use a cell phone in common hotel areas.

In other words, this is a serious-minded spa -- sorta. I wasn't there for drunken South Beach debauchery; I was there to cleanse my body and heal my soul. Still, it's Miami, so I could still get an icy, alcoholic beverage by the pool, albeit one flavored with açaí juice.

Opened in the fall of 2008, the luxurious, 150-suite Canyon Ranch Hotel & Spa Miami Beach negotiates a fuzzy line between health service spa and beach resort. It's more relaxed than the other two Canyon Ranch resorts in Tuscon, Ariz., and the Berkshires. It serves alcohol, allows children, and doesn't have minimum stay requirements. But it's still very much a spa. The restaurant serves health food with detailed nutritional information next to every item on the menu. There's a 70,000-square-foot spa and fitness center. Dozens of fitness classes are offered throughout the day. And there are lectures by physicians, nutritionists, and spiritual advisers.

As such, it's a great option for those who want a healthy vacation without the intensity of a traditional destination spa. You can do yoga by the beach, undergo skin imaging, spend the day in the sauna -- and then escape to South Beach at night and, if you so choose, get wasted. That said, few guests seem to go to such extremes. For the most part, the resort is extremely peaceful and quiet -- perhaps too quiet for some.

The hotel is flanked on either side by two Canyon Ranch Living residential facilities that, according to a staff member, are popular as third homes. Residents use hotel facilities along with hotel guests, and some hotel facilities are actually in the residential towers.

The typical guest is in his or her 40s, but there are 20-somethings around as well. (Though the crowd looks younger than those that frequent other Canyon Ranches.) Most guests are American, but the spa is advertising overseas in hopes of drawing a broader clientele.

The resort has also attracted more families than management expected, and it now offers activities for children and families.

The spa is also popular with celebrities. Staffers told me they regularly host pro football players (spas aren't just for ladies, it seems), and that Mickey Rourke visited in the fall. According to a bell boy, they bent the rules for old Mickey, allowing him to smoke in his room and bring his Chihuahua.

Hotel attendants at the beach

Service at the resort is nothing if not professional. Check-in is done sitting at one of the desks dotting the expansive lobby, like meeting with a loan officer in the lobby of a bank. But it's nice, and necessary, to have someone go over the large facilities, the classes, and the services offered.

A program adviser typically calls guests 14 days prior to their stay to arrange a "program" of scheduled treatments, and also checks in on their first night -- a nice gesture but a little more pressure than I would have liked.

A few incidents differentiated Canyon Ranch from some other high-end hotels with great spas, like the Acqualina. After a yoga class one morning, the teacher asked that each of us clean our yoga mat ourselves. Not a big deal, of course, but it's worth noting that guests are occasionally asked to lift a finger at Canyon Ranch. Likewise, one evening I ordered some cookies from room service and requested that they be warm. They arrived cold and, when I mentioned it, the delivery guy offered to take them back but also mentioned my room's microwave -- an option that admittedly made more sense.

View on a Larger Map

The hotel is right on a beautiful stretch of Miami Beach with an entrance off a quiet, narrow part of Collins Avenue. The concierge told me the spa is intentionally located in a somewhat isolated area, and its sleepy location certainly feels many yoga classes away from the action in South Beach.

For rebellious spa guests, there's Dunkin' Donuts across the street and Norman's, a local bar and grill. For food shopping, there's a Publix market across the street. That's it, other than a few other strip mall tenants.

Guests more interested in hitting a bar scene than practicing yoga should probably consider another property. South Beach is 15 to 20 minutes by taxi ($20). Shopping is closer. The Bal Harbour Shops, a high-end mall with both a Neiman's and a Saks, is a seven-minute, $10 cab ride -- or a 25-block walk via a beautiful, new beachfront boardwalk that Canyon Ranch helped fund.

Chairs and umbrellas arranged on the beach

Canyon Ranch sits on a quiet stretch of northern Miami Beach, which is easily accessed from a beautiful new boardwalk. The property's developers donated hundreds of thousands of dollars to help fund the boardwalk's extension, so that it now stretches all the way from South Beach to Bal Harbour up north.

Chaises and Canyon Ranch white-and-tan umbrellas are loosely arranged on the beach, staking out a casual claim on the plot of sand directly in front of the facility. The larger beach itself is open to the public, as is the boardwalk, and the atmosphere is one of inclusion, not exclusion, to the general public.

The sand is nice, though slightly coarser than the stuff they truck in to South Beach. A staff member told me that's because the sand is actually natural and native to the beach. Imagine that!

Waves are small, but the ocean is less placid than farther north in Sunny Isles. A beach attendant told me they have occasional jellyfish problems. In short, a small but lovely beach area for swimming and sunning.

Cozy seperated living room

While the rooms at many high-end Miami hotels rely on Liberace-esque or novel design to feel special, Canyon Ranch suites are designed to make guests feel at home -- if home were decorated by an innovative downtown New York design shop. The work of the Rockwell Group, the same firm that did the W New York and the new Jet Blue terminal at JFK, rooms are chic yet warm and inviting. Beautiful teak is used for crown molding and cabinetry. It looks absolutely stunning against ecru-colored walls with purple, green, and orange accents. The feel is fresh and contemporary without trying too hard -- a welcome change from many other Miami hotels.

All guest-rooms are suites and feature full kitchens. My standard one-bedroom Carillon Queen Suite was a whopping 950 square feet, and featured two queen beds and views of the surrounding buildings and a bit of water, but no balcony. Some of the more expensive suites have better views but are also a bit smaller. The next room up, the one-bedroom Atlantic Pool suite, has a balcony and view of the Atlantic Pool and a bit of ocean, but square footage is a bit smaller: 780 to 840 square feet.

Surprisingly well-equipped kitchens have center islands, Miele electric stoves, Cuisinart coffeemakers, and loads of accessories.

Bathrooms are lovely. Floors are covered with purple and iridescent mosaic tiles floral designs. Jacuzzi tubs are beautiful, as are the delicately scented Lather toiletries. Grohe showerheads have crazy good water pressure. (Too bad mine pointed directly at the shower door, flooding half of my bathroom every time I showered.)

Beds have pillow-top mattresses, 400-thread-count sheets, and fluffy, down-blend pillows. Suites have 40" Sony HDTVs in both the bedroom and living room. Bose alarm clocks play CDs but don't have iPod connections.

Treatment room at the Wellness Spa

The Wellness Spa features a number of innovative treatments, from Chinese medicine consultations to prenatal massages to Turkish body rituals. Such treatments must be scheduled in advance, and don't come cheap. Frustratingly, the voluminous treatment book in my room didn't list prices. But the spa does feature a number of complimentary offerings.

Most amazing is Aquavana, a European thermal suite with a Finnish sauna, a crystal steam room, a foot spa, an herbal laconium, an igloo, and Experiential Rains treatments.

The Experiential Rains, probably my favorite feature, are like special effects showers -- guests press buttons to choose from Atlantic Storm, Caribbean Monsoon, or Polar Mist, each a choreographed shower with sound effects, changing lights, and different water textures and temperatures.

The huge fitness center is equally impressive. Floor-to-ceiling windows offer ocean views from dozens of cardio machines. There's also a rock-climbing wall. Every day, some 40 free fitness classes are offered throughout the property, from Sunrise Yoga to Beach Conditioning.

While the entire Canyon Ranch facility, including the residential Canyon Ranch Living portion, has four pools, only two are designated for hotel guests. The tranquil-but-popular Cabana pool offers food and drinks service and is open to all ages. The Atlantic pool, open only to those 16 and older and featuring a large HydroSpa with jets and contoured seats, is even more peaceful. The spa also has a salon where guests can receive hair, nail, wax and makeup services.

Family fun in the sun

While the other two Canyon Ranch resorts in Tuscon, Ariz., and the Berkshires don't allow children, Canyon Ranch Miami is open to all ages. A staff member told me the resort had been surprised by how many families had visited and the resort has tailored its amenities accordingly.

The spa offers teen services for guests ages 14 to 17. These include a Teen Facial nutrition counseling, and "You and Your Mom" massages and facials. Canyon Ranch offers family fitness classes -- for children 5-13 and their parents too -- which can be booked as private or in small groups. Classes range from rock wall climbing and yoga to beach olympics. Children can also participate in their own classes. The hotel offers complimentary classes for children 5 to 8 (Kid Fit) and 9 to13 (Youth Fit), while those 14 and up are free to use the hotel's fitness and mind-body classes at their leisure. Children are not permitted in all four of the hotel's pools, but they are permitted in the Cabana Pool.

The Canyon Ranch Grill has a children's menu that can be ordered from at the grill itself, around the pool, or from room service.

Opened in the fall of 2008, Canyon Ranch has maintained its clean and sleek look. Common areas sparkle, and furnishings have nary a scratch. The fitness center and spa areas achieve equal levels of hygenic perfection.

Chefs at Canyon Ranch Grill

Canyon Ranch Grill serves dinner in a pleasant but not fabulous setting. The menu is health-focused and heavy on the fish, especially ceviches and tiraditos (so flavorful, so few calories!). Bison stands in for beef. Prices are surprisingly reasonable, with entrées hovering around $20. Everything on the menu is accompanied by detailed nutritional information. My yellow tomato gazpacho (60 calories, $8) and seared scallops (305 calories, $20) were delicious and surprisingly filling. I did have to ask for salt once, but it arrived without a fuss. Unlike at other Canyon Ranch properties, alcohol is available. The menu even makes wine pairing suggestions.

Around the Cabana pool, food and drink service is available from the casual Cabana restaurant. My curried chicken salad ($12, 395 calories) was on par, taste-wise, with non-healthy food at other hotels. Some $14 cocktails can be ordered at the pool or at the beach, though they might be made with açaí liquor. They also offer non-alcoholic frozen drinks, like a $10 pink lemonade freeze.

The property also has a juice bar called Eezz's in the fitness area, and a casual, over-the counter café, off the lobby called the Carillon Lounge.

Dining options outside the hotel are sparse, but spa escapees can binge across the street at Dunkin' Donuts or Norman's, a local bar and grill. For stocking the suite kitchens, there's a Publix market across the street.