The Ritz-Carlton Key Biscayne Rating: 4.5 Pearls

Key Biscayne, Miami, Florida

The Tranquility Pool

Located on a lush, seven-mile-long island, the 450-room Ritz Carlton Key Biscayne is just a 25 minute cab ride (for about $35) from Downtown Miami -- but it feels worlds away. Once inside the grounds of the resort, shared with the Grand Bay Club, a pricey condo community, guests are far from the party-hearty throngs of South Beach.

Much of the client base comes from on-site conferences. When I visited in late April, the place was filled with some 200 investors there for a conference. Day and night, dark suits milled about the lobby, mixing oddly with the beachfront location and two pools. Sure, many Miami Beach hotels also host large conferences, namely the Fontainebleau in Mid-Beach or the Loews in South Beach, but at the Ritz, the formal vibe is strong. Business suits outnumber bathing suits and cover-ups by far.

But it's not all business. With an on-site Family Pool, there are a few young families at the resort, along with older, longer-stay guests from the residential units relaxing in the Jacuzzi. The grounds are large, and the hotel is extremely quiet -- and not just at the adults-only Tranquility Pool. For some, it may be perfectly peaceful; for others, it may feel a bit too much like a library on the beach. For a similarly quiet sensibility and a little more fun nearby, check out the Ritz-Carlton South Beach or head further north and try the massive Fontainebleau resort (famed for its recent $1 billion renovation).

Staff at Cioppino

Service at the Ritz Carlton Key Biscayne reaches for Ritz standards but doesn't quite get them right. Check-in and help with my bags was friendly and efficient, but things went downhill from there. When I returned to the lobby, those who had helped me before didn't greet me by name or even seem to remember me. Small things, yes, but they're the sort of things that affect a guest's stay and make the warm, professional service at the Four Seasons Downtown stand out.

The Ritz concierge always seemed to be on the phone during my visit. When I asked for help, he simply held the phone to his chest and gave me a quick answer to my question. When I inquired about a place that rented bikes by the hour -- not by the day, which the hotel did at the time -- he simply said some place down the road might do it. He didn't offer to call them or take out a map to show me where that might be.

Extra towels were delivered promptly to my room, and the front desk called to make sure I received them. However, even though I, clearly a woman, picked up the phone, they called me "Mr. Eber," something that happened throughout my stay and got annoying. (Perhaps my personal information was incorrectly entered in the computer system.)

Service at dinner one night at the Cantina was a low point. I ordered a michelada -- a Mexican beer with fresh lime juice and sometimes hot sauce -- and it was too spicy, especially when my water glass wasn't refilled all that often. I kindly asked for a regular beer instead. Wordlessly, the waiter brought me another michelada, not a regular beer. When I finished that halfway through my meal, no one asked if I wanted a third drink, and it took a while to get the check. The restaurant wasn't crowded. I suspect the group of golfers chatting about their day on the links got better service than I did.

TripAdvisor reviewers have also noted that the service can be lacking here, and not up to the Ritz's normally high standards.

View on a Larger Map

The seven-mile-long island of Key Biscayne is easily accessible by car or taxi across a scenic causeway. It's a 15- to 20-minute drive from Downtown Miami or 20 to 25 minutes from South Beach. Once you're on the resort grounds, it's difficult to explore the island without a vehicle of some sort. The concierge can arrange bike or golf cart rentals through nearby outside companies. The resort used to rent out its own bikes, but it no longer does. Exploring the island, including its landmark lighthouse, by bicycle is lovely.

Key Biscayne's major attractions are the Crandon Golf Course and the Miami Seaquarium. Both are a 5- to 10-minute drive from the hotel.

Within walking distance from the hotel, there are a couple of strip malls with inexpensive cafés to grab a cheap bite, a bank, and a liquor store.

The beach

The hotel's Web site talks of basking on the sands of a Key Biscayne beach, named once of "America's Best." The beach in question isn't the one the hotel sits on but rather the one in Cape Florida State Park, a five-minute drive away.

The hotel's beach is far less fabulous. It's easily accessed just past the pool area on a nice wooden pathway. But, the beach itself is narrow and covered with seaweed. When I visited, waters were more brown than blue, and this is the case throughout the year. Oyster first sent a reporter down to investigate the Ritz in August 2008. She came back and explained that the beach was filthy and smelled like a raw fish bar. My editor was skeptical, so he sent me back -- and sure enough, the beach was just as unattractive, though not so smelly.

Fortunately, unlike at most Miami resorts, full service is available on the beach, inlcuding cabanas and chaises with little flags that guests can raise for service. However, it was empty when I was there. Most guests opt for the pools.

Bay View Room

With Bulgari toiletries, feather beds, high-thread-count sheets, and Boca Terry robes, rooms have the luxuries you'd expect at the Ritz. But the décor, while tasteful, is also pretty bland for Miami. Rooms were redone at the beginning of 2009, but they still have the same generic look of a Ritz-Carlton anywhere else in the world, be it the Ritz in New York, Jamaica, or St. Thomas. Trust me, Oyster's been to them all. Still, there are some nice surprises, like ceiling fans, Xtreme Mac iPod docks, and 32-inch LG flat-screen TVs.

Standard Rooms average 420 square feet -- twice as large as at most Art Deco hotels in South Beach. There are four different view options (at four different prices) to choose from. The cheapest, Standard rooms have views of the hotel entrance and tennis courts. For an additional $30 or so per night (it varies with the season and availability), Resort View Rooms offer views of the pools and the rear hotel grounds. For another $30 or so, the Bay View Rooms offer views of the bay on the other side of the key, as well as the hotel entrance. Oceanfront Rooms are the most expensive rooms, but they're sometimes as little as $10 more than the Bay View rooms. If the cost is slight, it's worth the upgrade. My Bay View Room's vista was dominated by the hotel entrance. The bay on the other side of the island was clearly visible, but it's a long way away. Most but not all rooms have balconies. Guests should be sure to specify they want a room with a balcony when making reservations -- there's no extra cost. Many rooms come with a table instead of a more traditional desk. It's attractive but also not as spacious and useful as an actual desk.

Unlike the Standard rooms, the suites have a powder room and full bathtub. Residence Suites, in the same building as all the hotel rooms and available for guests to book, have either a kitchenette or a full kitchen. Washer/dryers are not available.

If being at the Ritz on an island isn't exclusive enough, guests can pay an extra $80 to $100 per night for Club Level rooms on the ninth, 10th, and 11th floors that have their own business center, food presentations throughout the day, and a private snack gazebo called the Club on the Beach. It all sounds nice, but with Standard rooms costing around $400, I couldn't help think all hotel guests deserved some of those amenities.

Tennis facilities

Named one of the "50 Best U.S Tennis Resorts" in 2006 by Tennis magazine, the Cliff Drysdale-designed tennis center has some of the best hotel courts around. It features 10 clay courts and one hard court. Clinics are held every morning and some evenings. There are even Pee Wee clinics for guests as young as 3 years old. Special tennis concierges arrange games and extra services. But male guests take note: You must wear collared shirts to play.

The hotel's two pools, the Family Pool and the Tranquility Pool, clearly divide the property. Those with kids go one way; those without go another. The expansive Family Pool has a shallow, zero-entry area and a waterfall. Service is more casual than at other resorts of this caliber. Guests get towels from a towel stand and find their own chaise lounge -- nobody makes your little sunning bed for you. There are poolside waiters from Cantina, but they're few and far between. Most mommies cruise up to the bar themselves when they need another margarita.

Adults guests sun themselves at the Tranquility Pool, grabbing drinks from the Dune Bar. It's lovely, but also quite quiet. Those wanting a pool with a "scene" that doesn't involve water wings should probably stay elsewhere, like the Delano, Shore Club, or the Raleigh Hotel in South Beach.

The beautiful, 20,000-square-foot spa features a full range of treatments from a 30-minute Vichy Rain Massage ($60) to a Deliciously Sweet Pedicure Sundae ($80). The fitness center and a Pilates studio are contained within the spa. The fitness center isn't huge, but it's quite nice. LifeFitness cardio machines have their own cable TVs and look out onto the pool area through arched windows. After using the fitness center, guests can use the spa facilities to shower or sauna at no cost. Personal trainers are available for private sessions, and there are two to four group fitness classes, from Poolates to Zen Jump, each day on offer. Group classes cost extra, however, typically $10 or $15 per class.

One of the resort's main attractions is its proximity to the Crandon Golf Course. Designed by veteran golfers Robert Von Hagge and Bruce Devlin, the 18-hole, par-72 course is just 5 to 10 minutes by car from the hotel. Hotel concierges arrage tee times on the renowned public course, and greens fees are a very reasonable $60.

With its secluded, beachfront location, the resort is ideal for weddings. Ceremonies can take place on the beach, in one of the hotel's large ballrooms, or on the lush lawns. A wedding concierge is on staff to meet even the most demanding bride's special requests.

All guest rooms have recycling bins. Every month hotel staff and guests can go on a "Giveback Getaway" to do restoration work at the Bill Baggs Cape Florida State Park. Eco-friendly paints, lights, and cleaning products are used on the facility. Uniforms for the front-of-house staff are even made from recycled plastic bottles.

The Family Pool's deck

The hotel has adjoining rooms, and king rooms can accomodate rollaways, which cost an extra $50 per day. Cribs are free. Families might also want to consider staying in one of the residences, some of which feature kitchens.

The property clearly divides itself: adults this way to the Tranquility Pool, kids this way to the Family Pool. With a zero-entry area, a waterfall, and a shop selling water toys, the Family Pool is kiddie paradise.

Ritz Kids, the resort's children's program for ages 5 to 12, gives moms and dads full- and half-day breaks. It's pricey, but kids are entertained with everything from tennis tournaments to island treasure hunts. The cost is $50 for a half day without lunch, $60 for a half day with lunch, $90 for a full day. On occasion, Saturday-night sessions from 6 to 9 p.m. are offered.

Both Cioppino and Cantina feature children's menus, and kids can also be accomodated at Dune.

As one would expect from a Ritz Carlton, particularly one with newly renovated guest rooms, the property was spotless on our visit. The lobby shines, guest rooms sparkle, and the pool areas are well tended.

Berries at Cioppino

The hotel offers two casual beachfront restaurants with picturesque outdoor seating: Cantina, a Mexican restaurant, and Dune, a burger place completed in the spring of 2008. I tried Cantina with poor results. The service was subpar, and the mostly unfresh food wasn't worth even the moderate prices. While $12 guacamole prepared tableside was delicious, other menu items failed. A flight of three ceviches didn't taste fresh -- some of the worst I had in Miami. A vegetable quesadilla appetizer tasted like processed cheese.

Service and food are both better at the more formal Cioppino, the only restaurant in the hotel serving a full breakfast. A $19 continental breakfast had deliciously flaky croissants and great fresh juices that the waiters constantly refilled. On Sundays, Cioppino has a huge brunch with 14 stations with food from around the globe. The cost is $72 for adults and $36 for children under 12. In the evening, the restaurant focuses on Tuscan fare.

Both Cantina and Dune have scenic outdoor bars. The lobby features a lovely indoor bar called Rum Bar with a colonial theme and tropical fans. It's a bar by night and a coffee bar with pastries and light breakfast items by day. There's also a lounge area in the lobby that has small bites and sushi on some nights.

The Oceanfront Lawn and Gazebo, a very popular ceremony location

The Ritz is one of Miami's most luxurious hotels, and it's weddings uphold the brands' standards of service and all-around opulence. Of course, it's also one of Miami's most expensive venues -- dinners start at $200 a head, about on par with the most historic, the Biltmore Hotel in Coral Gables.

• Wedding Size: Up to 450 people; two weddings may occur at once

• Extra Fees: First, there's the standard, $2,500 ceremony fee. On top of that, there's an additional labor charge (5 percent of the total food and beverage price). In addition, there are extra fees for restroom attendants ($45 per hour, four-hour minimum) as well as security ($55 per hour, also a four-hour minimum).

• Wedding Packages: Along with the food (described in more detail below), the basic dinner packages also include a bouquet and a boutonniere, decorations (such as rose petals, tiki torches, and candles), a guitar player for up to two hours (for the ceremony), and a five-hour open bar.

• Ceremony and Reception Locations: The Grand Lawn (up to 500 people), the Oceanfront Lawn and Gazebo (100 guests), the beach (250 guests), the Ritz-Carlton Ballroom (500 guests), the Plaza Ballroom (100 guests), the more unique Ponce de Leon Ballroom with french doors (135 guests), the small Davis Room (just 50 guests, with no space for a dance floor), or the Ocean View Room or the Wine Room at the Cioppino restaurant; also, note that any outdoor events must end by 10 p.m. (local law), and they require unbreakable serviceware (no glass).

• Photographers and Videographers: There are no required, in-house photographers or videographers provided; outside vendors are welcome at no extra charge.

• Music: There are no in-house musicians required, though outside vendors are welcome at no extra charge.

• Food: The most basic plated dinner (chicken) starts at $200, and includes hors d'oeuvres, an appetizer, a salad, an entree, and a dessert. Prices can go as high as $310 per person, once you add in some special hors d'oeuvres, displays, or a sushi station (not to mention the additional $125 uniformed chef fee). If that feels a bit too steep, note that just the brunch starts for $85 per person. (Kids', kosher, vegetarian, and gluten-free menus are also available upon request.)

• Drinks: All dinner options include a five-hour open bar, which includes Skyy vodka, Tanqueray gin, Johnny Walker Red, scotch, and Jim Beam bourbon, among other brands. You can also upgrade to a better bar selection for an additional $12 to $40 extra per person, and also add in a special martini bar for an extra $14 per person. Also note that there's an additional $75 bartender fee per 75 guests.

• Cakes: From $10 per guest; if you bring your own cake there's an additional $5 cutting fee. Flavors include butter, carrot, lemon, chocolate, coconut, red velvet.

• Spa Treatments: The Spa has a full service salon with hair, nail, and makeup services.

• Honeymoon Suite: Since you're already spent a fortune, why not go for broke and upgrade to the Presidential Suite, which has floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the ocean and two large terraces. At the very least, it offers lots of space to get ready on the day of the wedding.

• Airport Transportation: The Ritz does not provide an airport shuttle, though it can book a limo service for $70. Otherwise, a taxi out to the island will cost about $40.