Grand Hotel Vesuvio

The richly historic Grand Hotel Vesuvio exists at the intersection of modern and ancient Italy, overlooking the marina where hydrofoils whisk guests across the bay to the trapped-in-time Isle of Capri. Classic and elegant, decor reflects the hotel's storied past, when it was the go-to place for movie stars, politicians, and other celebrities, such as Enrico Caruso, whose love of Napoli and cooking have inspired the ultra-modern, fine-dining roof-garden restaurant, Caruso's. Italianate painted furniture, marble floors, wrought-iron, gold leaf, carved wood furniture, original oil paintings (not prints), and even the lovely soap dispensers in the powder rooms reflect the hotel's character and longevity.

The Grand Hotel Vesuvio sits on the Bay of Naples, in a quiet pedestrian area frequented by young Neapolitans out for romantic strolls, espressos in waterside cafes, and fine dining al fresco. Just across from the ancient Castel dell'Ovo in the historic district of San Ferdinando, the hotel is a short walking distance from the Royal Palace and Plebiscito Square, and a 15- to 20-minute walk from downtown Napoli. Walk five minutes to the marina, and visitors can take a hydrofoil or other boat to Capri, Ischia, or other points of interest on the Amalfi Coast.

Rooms at the Grand Hotel Vesuvio are designed to capture the elegance of wealthy old-world Napoli, with sumptuous wallpaper and matching drapes and passementerie, fine wood furniture and large luxurious (modern) marble bathrooms. Beautifully maintained and clean, with spotless parquet floors, rooms are large by European standards, with high ceilings, and some have balconies with exquisite views of the Bay of Naples. (It's worth the extra money for a room with a view.) Rooms overlooking the via Santa Lucia can be noisy. Some rooms have whirlpool tubs; all have safes, minibars, and flat-screen TVs.

Guests rave about the Grand Hotel Vesuvio's breakfast buffet, served in the sunny Sala Puccini with views of the Castel dell'Ovo. (Try the fresh buffalo ricotta!) For dinner, the rooftop Caruso restaurant is sleek and modern, with bright contemporary art and black-and-white photography on the walls, and panoramic bay views. (Jackets required.) The spa and indoor pool have the feel of an underground grotto, with candlelight, mosaic tilework, and cavelike rocks lending atmosphere. The workout room is small but functional; there are saunas, steamrooms, tanning suites, and a massage menu. Ballrooms are beautifully appointed, not generic or hotel-like.