The Citrus Cuisine of the Amalfi Coast

Although this seems like a laughable question, its necessity becomes clear once you learn that, in the natural world, there is no such thing as a lemon. Lemons are a human-made cross between a sour orange and a citron, a deep yellow fruit with bumpy skin similar to the modern lemon but much larger and with a thicker rind. This hybrid came about over hundreds of years of selective planting.

A step further brings us to the Procida lemon, a singular invention of the tiny island of Procida in the Gulf of Naples. Sweeter and larger than the average lemon, Procida lemons resemble their citron ancestor. Many dishes I encountered while on the Amalfi Coast took advantage of this special variety.

Limoncello is a popular Italian digestif made from lemon peels, sugar, and alcohol. This syrupy sweet beverage is sipped leisurely after a long Italian dinner to aid digestion and relax in good company. Limoncello is abundant once you hit Naples and the Amalfi Coast. Tucked around every corner is a shop with keepers beckoning you in to sample a taste of their particular blend.

While Capri is undeniably the most famous spot to buy a bottle, the origins of this beloved liqueur are contentious. Sorrento, Capri, and Amalfi have all claimed to be the birthplace of limoncello, with tales ranging from local farmers imbibing limoncello during harsh winters to monks distilling the drink in their monasteries.

Limoncello is best for fans of sweet drinks; the emphasis is on the sugary sweetness more so than the citrus tang. For fans of more bitter drinks (myself included), the local ruccolino or piperna, distilled from herbs rather than fruit, will hit the spot.

Sometimes called lingue di bue or ox tongue due to its shape, Lingue di Procida is an iconic dessert on the Gulf of Naples' tiniest island, Procida. It's similar to a filled donut in concept, but rather than the dense, yeasty dough one would expect, Lingue di Procida is made with light, fluffy, flaky pastry that gives each bite a satisfying—and slightly messy—crunch. The lemon cream is not too sweet or heavy, making it easy to devour the entire pastry in one sitting. If you want to know where this delicious dessert started, however, be careful who you ask—several local cafés claim to be the birthplace of Procida's most popular pastry.

When I heard lemon salad, I imagined a typical bed of greens dressed in a citrusy emulsion, maybe with a few lemon slices for garnish. What I did not expect was a plate full of only lemon slices, lightly dressed in olive oil and seasoned with garlic and pepper. It's typically served alongside seafood to brighten the flavors, but it is surprisingly good as a standalone dish. The dressing neutralizes the sourness of the lemon while still letting the citrus bite shine. This dish is especially popular on Procida, where the salad is made with the eponymous lemons.

Italian food is known for its pasta, and the pared-down ingredients list for pasta al limone truly lets it be the star of the show. This dish is simple yet impactful, typically consisting of no more than butter, garlic, lemon, parmesan cheese, and a dash of salt and pepper tossed with a batch of fettuccine, spaghetti, or linguini. The dish will vary from restaurant to restaurant, but the core concept remains—to allow the pasta to shine with the fresh brightness of the citrusy sauce.

Delizie al Limone, or Lemon Delight, is another iconic Amalfi Coast dessert. Living up to their name, these treats are a delightful sunny bite with lemon in every aspect of the recipe. Invented in Sorrento by Chef Carmine Marzuillo, these mini-cakes are crafted from a delicate lemon sponge cake soaked in lemon syrup, filled with lemon creme, and covered in a lemon glaze. They are usually served chilled in the spring and summer months, coinciding with peak citrus season. However, you can snag a serving at your local pasticceria at any time of the year.

The lemon sorbet in Amalfi is hands-down my favorite lemon-based cuisine, only partially because I'm weak for a gimmick. The sorbet is served inside the rind of a giant lemon, complete with stem and leaf on top. The serving sizes are massive, easily enough to make up for the admittedly inflated price. When the shopkeeper gave me two spoons, assuming I would be sharing, I graciously let him believe I was not about to walk a few meters down the street before decimating the entire thing myself. You can find stalls selling these whimsical creations on the streets of Amalfi (the town, not the coast) or at the popular Royal Gelato.

I departed the Amalfi Coast with a new respect for all that one tiny citrus fruit can accomplish. Equally at home in a pastry as in a pasta, the humble lemon can be so much more than a sour candy or a summer drink. In a country where food is not only driven by a necessity for life but a passion for living, each ingredient opens up a world of possibilities and perspectives. The next time life decides to give me lemons, I think I’ll make a salad.