Shewe Wana Boutique Resort and Spa

Newcomers arriving at Shewe Wana for the first time may feel a short jolt of disappointment -- the hotel is a good 10 minutes by car or tuk-tuk from the old city, and doesn't look like much from the street. Tucked between auto repair and spare parts shops, the colonial-style facade has arched, second-story windows trimmed in blue, and street-level shops occupied by third-party businesses whose gates are often shut. But enter the driveway that cuts through the building and step into the lobby or courtyard, and it's instantly clear why so many past guests have described the property as an "oasis" and "paradise." The quaint property is impressively lush (even for Thailand) and immaculately tidy. The hotel is split into two sections. On one side is the boutique hotel section, which consists of Old World, two-story room buildings circling a garden pool with greenery so thick, it practically dips in the water. The other side contains the more luxurious suites, which have a pool of their own. The two sides are united by their shared amenities -- the spa, the two restaurants -- and the staff, who are uniformly praised for their above-and-beyond courtesy and guest consideration.The other unifying factor between the two sides is the overarching sense of peace, aided in no small part by the leafy backdrop of orchids, bamboo, chrysanthemum, red button ginger, and flowering vines climbing over the brick property walls. Hand-painted doors, wood carvings, fountains, gardens, ponds, Thai statues, murals, and wall mosaics add to the serene vibe. The hotel appeals in equal parts to couples and families or groups, who can comfortably take up one of the suites. Nearly everyone who comes here considers it a brilliant find and speaks very highly of its tranquility, cleanliness, and outstanding service.

Shewe Wana is east of the Old City and the Ping River on one of the main roads, Charoen Muang. It would take a half hour to reach the Old City by foot, but the hotel provides a free hourly shuttle to Tha Phae Gate (on the east side of the city), as well as to Wat Mahawan (just outside of the old city), the Night Market, and the Saturday and Sunday markets. There is no return service, however, so guests must walk or hire a tuk-tuk back to the hotel.

Shewa Wana's rooms are almost evenly split between the hotel's boutique and suite sides. The boutique side consists of 16 hotel rooms set in a two-story colonial-style building wrapping around the garden pool. Hotel rooms have gobs of old-fashioned charm, with mosaic tile flooring and wooden double doors whose exterior panels are hand-painted with traditional Thai scenes. Dark-wood furnishings include work desks and mosquito-netted beds (either two separate twin beds or a "king," which is actually two twins pushed together). There are ceiling fans as well as air-conditioning, and most rooms in this hotel section also have outdoor space -- but note that second-floor units are accessed by an open-air hallway that also acts as a shared balcony. The majority of the hotel rooms overlook the lush garden pool, though a few units in the rear of this section look out on the back property wall.Rooms have minibars with sodas, spring mineral water, and Singha beer; all these cost a charge, but glass-bottled Singha water and Nescafe coffee and Lipton tea are free. Rooms are stocked with flat-screen TVs, Japanese-style pool robes, pool towels, traditional cotton bathrobes, and slippers. In addition to the netting over the bed, the hotel provides mosquito zappers (racquets and floor traps), plus heavy-duty flashlights. When we stayed here, our room even had a doorbell and a drying rack. Safes are free to use, and Wi-Fi is free in the rooms and throughout the grounds.Bathrooms on the hotel side have brushed concrete walls and olive tile flooring. In keeping with the eco-chic look, waste and linen bins are made of wicker, not plastic or metal. The walk-in showers don't have doors, and their showerheads are standard (not rainfall). Handmade bath products, like honey and turmeric shower gel, are stored in ceramic pump bottles. (These products are so popular, many guests buy bottles of them in the lobby on their way out.) Cotton buds, shower caps, and hairdryers are also provided.The hotel's 15 one- and two-bedroom have the same amenities as the rooms, with the addition of extra space, jetted tubs, and kitchenettes with dark wood cabinetry. While rooms are quaint, suites have a more elegant look thanks to wood-beam floors with throw rugs and warm yellow walls with wood-plank accents. All suites have dining tables and living areas with deep sofas and adjacent daybeds, often upholstered in rich jewel tones. In contrast to hotel rooms' shared outdoor space, suites have large private balconies or terraces, all set up with Thai-style wooden furniture and roll-down bamboo blinds.

One of the many things Shewe Wana guests regularly praise is the free breakfast, which is served at the pleasant restaurant by the garden pool on the boutique side. The breakfast consists of both buffet items and a la carte options: pancakes, waffles, and eggs and omelets prepared in a variety of ways (like with Thai chiles and vegetables), as well as local specialties and coffee drinks, like lattes and cappuccinos. The other restaurant is a charming space located off the lobby, with colorful ceramic floor tiles, oil paintings of jasmine flowers, and white banquette seating with bright green, blue, yellow, and red pillows. A chalkboard displays the predominantly Thai menu, which is available for lunch and dinner. A tiny, charming lobby bar offers a daily mojito happy hour and a street-facing coffee shop is open all day serving specialty drinks, snacks, and sandwiches.There are two swimming pools within the garden grounds. One is a small kidney-shaped pool on the hotel side, whose edges are so dominated by greenery there is hardly room for loungers or chairs. The other is a larger, rectangular pool by the suites; this one has enough deck space for loungers on three of the four sides. Shewe Wana's spa features a cedar sauna and treatment rooms for singles or couples, some with whirlpools and rainfall showers. Facials and massages (especially Thai massages) are popular spa services. There is an open room for yoga practice; private instruction is available for a fee.The hotel offers a free hourly shuttle to Tha Phae Gate (the eastern entrance to the old city) Wat Mahawan, Night Bazaar, and the Saturday and Sunday markets. No pick-up service is offered, so guests will either have to hire a vehicle or walk back to the hotel. Laundry service is available and there are two computers in the lobby for guest use. Wi-Fi is free throughout Shewe Wana.