Mar Mar

Mar-Mar is not a hotel per se but rather a pair of independent apartments (Babo and Punta) located in two of the tall, traditional hillside buildings which overlook Riomaggiore's dramatic waterfront. As a result, it has no common areas or even a dedicated reception desk. Guests simply check in at the Bar O’Netto (next to La Lampara restaurant, a mere two-minute walk from the train station), and then are led to the appropriate apartment. Since both are self-catering units with only one bed, they attract DIY vacationers who appreciate sigh-inducing sea views -- and are able to handle plenty of steep stairs. 

Mar-Mar is located in lovely Riomaggiore. Traveling north from La Spezia, this is the first of Cinque Terre’s five fabled villages. A fishing port (and tourist magnet), its centuries-old center is a labyrinth of shops, bars and restaurants. Both Mar-Mar apartments are right in the thick of this, within walking distance to historic sites like the Church of San Giovanni Battista and the Castle of Riomaggiore, both about a four-minute stroll. Fossola Beach can also be reached on foot in seven minutes, and energetic visitors can take advantage of hiking trails that connect the Cinque Terre’s photogenic quintet of communities. These can be easily explored via local trains and ferries as well. 

Travelers should note that Riomaggiore, like its sister villages, is pedestrian-only. That means cars must be left on the outskirts, where parking is costly and hard to come by. For guests flying into the area, the nearest airports are Pisa International (an 80-minute drive) and Genoa Cristoforo Colombo (which is a two-hour trip). 

Owners Mario and Marzia set out to provide “comfortable accommodations at reasonable prices” and these two apartments -- Babo and Punta -- prove they succeeded. Housed in traditional Ligurian buildings, each is plain but appealing. Babo’s double bedroom for instance, combines vintage prints with contemporary pine pieces; and its little living room has wicker armchairs plus a wooden table with classic cane-bottom chairs where guests can dine on meals they have prepared themselves in the galley kitchen. Off it, a serviceable white-tile bathroom includes a pedestal sink and narrow shower stall as well as a toilet and bidet. Punta shares a similar look but a different layout: for starters, the kitchenette is incorporated into the living area (which in this case also features a couch); moreover, both that room and the queen bedroom open onto a furnished balcony with sweeping sea and village views. This is an important distinction because Babo’s terrace, though pretty and private, can only be accessed by leaving the apartment and climbing a flight of stairs. Note that while the apartments do have some modern conveniences -- namely flat-screen TVs, ranges, and small refrigerators -- they do not offer Wi-Fi. 

Some properties are better defined by what they don’t have, and such is the case here. Mar-Mar doesn’t have a restaurant or recreational facilities; in fact, its apartments don’t even have elevators. Wi-Fi can also be crossed off the list, although this can be accessed for free at nearby Bar O'Netto (which doubles as the check-in point). Everything else Mar-Mar offers is contained in its apartment units, aside from the husband-and-wife owners. While they don’t act as official concierges, they know the area intimately and are a valuable resource.