El Establo

El Establo is one of the area’s most established hotels, and the decor reflects that fact. Half of the property feels updated and modern, though some areas (including the rooms) have more traditional, Old World design details that can feel tired. Common areas are pleasant enough, with dark, lacquered wood, exposed beam ceilings, and wrought-iron chandeliers creating a blend of classic and rustic spaces. Bright nature photography and accents made from rough-hewn trees remind guests that they're high in the mountains of Monteverde. As every amenity -- including the pool, both restaurants, and spa -- is located in its own building, there is no one social hub at the hotel, and the sprawling layout of this hotel does present a bit of a challenge. Loud shuttles are necessary to get around, and aren't the most efficient at times. Still, with even with 155 rooms, all of the space means that it’s unlikely that guests will feel overcrowded even when the hotel is sold out. The result is a quiet vibe that’s equally suited for adults and children.

The hotel sits directly on Route 620 -- the area's main thoroughfare -- within a five-minute drive of the shops, restaurants, and tourist attractions in downtown Santa Elena. A handful of restaurants and bars are also within walking distance. The property’s proximity to Monteverde’s famous cloud forest allows for easy hiking and canopy tours directly from the rear of the hotel.

El Establo is situated at least three hours from the nearest airport -- San Jose’s main Juan Santamaria International Airport (SJO). Unfortunately, the property does not provide transportation. Taxi service can be prohibitively expensive over such long distances. The two best alternatives are either to rent a car or to hire a private shuttle. Car rental counters are available in the airport terminal. However, the drive to the hotel requires trekking a long, winding, extremely rough mountain road. Shuttle vans/buses are readily available at the airport and likely the most affordable option.

Rooms here are spacious and simple, with a style that feels mostly appropriate for the eco-tourism bent of the Monteverde area. Still, despite the rustic-lodge atmosphere thats created by details like wooden rocking chairs and hardwood furniture, the look is a bit tired. Decor blends Old World pieces with tropical and modern accents, and we spotted a good deal of wear on much of the furniture. The style in some higher-category rooms is more appealing, like the Honeymoon Suite with its wood-beam ceilings and restrained earth-tone palette, though other rooms look a bit cheap, with simple wooden molding and unremarkable tropical art hung on yellow walls.

The hotel offers three room categories with varying layouts and square footage, though all offer plenty of space. Entry-level Deluxe Rooms have 538-square-foot (50 square meters), one-room floor plans with two queen beds. Suites provide substantially large floor plans -- some with an upper-level loft -- with a sitting area and either a king-size bed or two queens. Honeymoon Suites offer a large, one-room floor plan with a single king bed and an open-concept bathroom and whirlpool tub. Additionally, every room has a private balcony or terrace with stunning views of the valley and mountains.

All rooms include flat-screen TVs, mini-fridges, and lockboxes. Like most hotels in the area, they aren't air-conditioned -- it can be hot during the day, but things are cool at night. Higher category rooms have minibars and coffeemakers. Unfortunately, free Wi-Fi is only available in the lobby and some common areas such as the pool, and even there it can be spotty. Beds are universally well-reviewed as comfortable in all categories.

Bathrooms are oversized and well appointed. The look is more modern, with lots of polished granite, tan marble tiling, and contemporary fittings like square vessel sinks. Every room features a spacious walk-in shower stall and separate tub while Suites upgrade to a two-person whirlpool hot tub. Overall, the feel is a notch above what most guests would expect of a three-and-a-half-pearl hotel, though we did spot some wear on fixtures like showerheads. A small hairdryer and simple toiletries are standard.

The hotel offers a long list of resort-like amenities, many of which make excellent use of its hilltop cloud forest location. The sole on-site pool is small relative to the size of the hotel, though the covered open-air building features a beautiful, modern glass-and-stone design. A handful of curved wood lounge chairs offers views of the surrounding rainforest valley. The entire space is shaded throughout the day, and also features a tiny bar with a full liquor menu of beer, wine, and cocktails. An upper-level terrace that overlooks the pool through a curved glass wall includes a small gym with free weights and a handful of cardio- and strength-training machines.

The hotel’s full-service Green Leaf Spa is situated in a separate secluded building. Natural rock walls, off-white floor tiles, and large forest-view windows provide a bright, modern aesthetic. The spa offers an extensive list of treatments including deep tissue, hot stone, aromatherapy, and couples massage. Exfoliation, wraps, and facial treatments are also available. A small adjacent salon provides essential beauty services such as manicures and pedicures.

Two full restaurants service the hotel. Las Riendas -- the main restaurant -- offers breakfast, lunch, and dinner with buffet and a la carte service. The space is done in medium-tone wood, Spanish tile flooring, and the same minimalist-meets-Old World furnishings found throughout much of the hotel. The hotel's free breakfast buffet is served here and has a decent selection of hot and cold local and international options. The dinner-only Laggus offers fine dining in a darker, more upscale space. Suede chairs, elaborate place settings, and soft, intimate lighting provide the fanciest common area on the property. Guests can choose to dine indoors or on one of two small alfresco balconies with stunning valley and water views. The food at both restaurants is well-reviewed for the quality and selection. Room service is also available from either during regular operating hours.

A number of on-site activities center around the area’s famous rainforest landscape. The Tree Top Canopy Tour offers zip-lining tours that include 16 individual runs, rope bridges, and a Tarzan-style swing. The hotel’s Night Walk provides guests with guided tours of the on-site cloud forest. Each tour begins at sunset and continues after dark to explore the area’s native plant and wildlife. Neither activity is free.

Free self-parking is available in a series of small lots adjacent to each building throughout the property. On-site van and golf cart service is also available to shuttle guests around the hotel.