Hotel Cantarana

The laid-back surfer vibe is immediately evident when checking in at Hotel Cantarana. Run by two surfing brothers, the hotel is just a few minutes’ walk to Playa Grande, one of the most popular and picturesque surfing beaches in Guanacaste. Wide and uncrowded, the sprawling (hence the name "grande") beach is also ideal for walking, running, and congregating, especially at sunset.

Guests who choose Hotel Cantarana come for more than just the low rates -- they come to relax away from the noise of touristy Tamarindo, immersed in the jungle-like tree canopy that surrounds the hotel. In the mornings guests sip coffee under the bamboo ceiling of the second-story restaurant and watch the parade of wildlife, mostly birds and the occasional howler monkey, darting among the tree branches. 

In the afternoon, guests can grab beach gear and head to Playa Grande or wander the dusty road in the other direction to catch a boat ride across the Matapalo River (referred to as the estuary) and lunch in Tamarindo. On-site the hotel offers a collection of left-behind books to read poolside, under the shade of the tiki hut, or in the rope hammock. The staff is eager to help book excursions, specifically a nighttime tour to view nesting sea turtles – the area is home to one of the largest leatherback turtle nesting grounds in the world. Before dinner, many guests choose to catch the stunning sunset at Playa Grande. The smallness of the hotel makes it easy to meet other guests and many end up dining together. When dinner is over, there’s nothing left to do but retreat to the rooms where TVs almost seem intrusive to the quiet surroundings.

The hotel is set within the Las Baulas National Marine Park along a dusty dirt drive within the gated residential community of Palm Beach Estates, home to several upscale rental villas and a handful of boutique hotels. It’s a five-minute walk to Playa Grande, one of Guanacaste’s most touted beaches for surfing and leatherback sea turtle nesting. Playa Grande is separated from Tamarindo by the Matapalo River, and guests can get to town by driving 30 minutes around the river or by walking five minutes to the river to take a quick boat ride across.

• Five-minute walk to Playa Grande
• Five-minute walk to the Matapalo River
• 30-minute drive to Tamarindo
• 30-minute drive to Playa Flamingo
• 80-minute drive to Nicoya
• 90-minute drive to Liberia Airport
• Two-hour drive to Palo Verde National Park
• Two-hour drive to Nosara
• Four-hour drive to Arenal Volcano National Park
• Four-hour drive to San Jose International Airport

Four of Hotel Cantarana’s five rooms are located in a terra-cotta red, two-story building that overlooks a medium-size pool while the fifth room is tucked beneath a similar building that holds the office and the restaurant. Each room has semi-private outdoor terrace with sturdy Adirondack-style chairs and a cocktail table, ideal for sitting with a cup of Costa Rican coffee or daytime reading. The rooms are basic and roomy with ceramic tile floors, lime green window treatments, canvas artwork depicting Toucans and other Costa Rican wildlife, and large closets with safes and mini-refrigerators. King-size beds are wrapped in white sheets (there's a blanket in the closet if needed) and small futons provide guests with additional sleeping and lounging space.

While the rooms are spacious and well cooled by individual wall air conditioners, they show slight signs of wear and tear and a lack of polished cleaning. Furnishings are feeble bamboo style, and during our stay the bathroom soap dispenser was broken, cobwebs were visible in the bedside lamps, and there were enough dead and live ants to make the insect-squeamish somewhat uncomfortable. While the ants were a nuisance, the staff assuages guests by reminding them that insects are a way of life in the jungle and offering bug spray.

The bathrooms are long and narrow, finished in white tile with a ribbon of decorative accent tiles. The walk-in showers offer plenty of space to turn around, although the water-saving showerheads seem to spray water in every direction except down. Bathrooms also lack the basic amenities found at traditional hotels such as shampoo, lotion, bar soap, and hairdryers (although this is common in Costa Rica) but there’s liquid soap in dispensers on the counters and in the showers.

Hotel Cantarana’s restaurant sits in the two-story building that holds the hotel’s office. Sprawling trees surround the lofty, open-air space, giving diners the feeling of sitting in a rustic tree house. The restaurant, headed by a young Costa Rican chef, has garnered a reputation in the area for its above-the-bar cuisine. Made-to-order breakfasts (included in the room rate) include offerings such as fruity pancakes or the typical Costa Rican breakfast of rice and beans mixed together (called gallo pinto) and served with eggs, fried plantains, and tortillas. The dinner menu is a mix of locally caught fish, pasta dishes, and international and vegetarian specialties.

When not eating, guests can take a dip in the pool or head to Playa Grande, a short walk down the road, for a day of surfing followed by a spectacular sunset. In the evenings, during specific months of the year, guests can book evening tours onto Playa Grande to view nesting turtles.