Hotel Fonda Vela

This hotel, tucked high in the mountains of Monteverde, embraces its setting with its mountain lodge style and lovely mountain views from many vantages. Inside, dark wood paneling and hardwood furniture, plus subtle tropical accents, combine to create an aesthetic that's equal parts jungle retreat and high-altitude cabin. It's humble, to be sure, and at time the style verges on dated -- the landscape paintings on the walls have a definite throwback quality about them -- but somehow it all still feels charming and intimate. A small bar lounge above the main restaurant serves as a laid-back place for guests to mingle, but it's decidedly low key. In a moderately-sized, modern complex outside, the pool, two adjacent hot tubs, and a bar collectively form the property’s outdoor social space. Like many area hotels, the atmosphere is quiet and relaxed. With only 42 rooms, the property offers ample outdoor garden space to spread out, and the lovely green grounds are a major highlight. Guests are just as likely to share the common areas with couples as with vacationing families.

The hotel is located on a quiet, dirt road off Route 620 -- the area’s main thoroughfare. It's in the countryside, and the only thing within a reasonable walk are a few other small hotels and number trailheads for popular hikes throughout the Monteverde area mountains. Santa Elena’s dining and shops are a 10-minute drive from the hotel, as is the popular Monteverde Butterfly Gardens. Many guests head to this part of Costa Rica to experience its cloud forests, and the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve is a five-minute drive in the other direction. Puntarenas is a two-hour drive from here and Arenal Volcano will take three hours to reach. Part of the hotel's charm is its middle-of-nowhere vibe, and that means it's a long haul to the nearest airport -- Juan Santamaria International Airport (SJO) in San Jose. Expect drives to take up to three hours. Car rental is likely the most convenient option, provided travelers don’t mind trekking the long, winding dirt road up to Monteverde. Shared shuttles are available and can be a cheap alternative. Taxis are likewise available, however fares to cover the three-hour drive can prove prohibitively high.

Continuing the wood-heavy look from the hotel's common areas, the style in most rooms is reminiscent of a cabin, especially in Standard Rooms, which have wooden furnishings, paneled walls, and floors done all in the same chestnut tone. Overall, the look is dated, and furniture has chunky silhouettes that's not quite vintage enough to feel Old World. Some design choices -- like the carved desk chairs that we saw -- add a bit of local flair, but otherwise these simply feel like old school hotel rooms. Junior Suites are a bit brighter and more pleasant, with white walls accented by green curtains and fabrics, but ultimately details like floral-pattern bedspreads don't help to modernize things.The hotel offers just two room categories -- Standard Rooms and Junior Suites. Floor plans in the former have more square footage than a typical mid-range hotel. The latter offers a sitting area and approximately 50 percent more floor space than the entry-level rooms. Some rooms also have shared outdoor seating areas, although this amenity is not category-dependent. Additional amenities vary widely by room category. The only standard amenities include coffee-making equipment, flat-screen or tube-style TVs with cable, and mini-fridges. Wi-Fi is only available in the lobby, and we found the service to be spotty and unreliable. Beds in both categories are very firm.Bathrooms are relatively small, and the decor is ordinary in every way. The tile walls and floors seem just past their prime while marble countertops add a hint of sophistication. A shower/tub combination and generic bath soap are standard in both categories.

The list of features here is short, which is surprising given its countryside setting. Galleria -- the hotel’s primary dining space -- serves a free buffet breakfast and a la carte dinners. Breakfast includes hot and cold local and international options, and dinner features Costa Rican standards, though reviews are mixed. Decor in the restaurant includes traditional wooden chairs, gray tile flooring, and local artwork adorning the walls. A small corner stage hosts live, local music acts on select weeknights. An upstairs mezzanine overlooking the dining area offers lounge space and a decent bar with a full liquor menu. The property’s second restaurant, Fireside Room, is located in a tiny, adjacent room with a wood-burning fireplace and a cozier, more intimate atmosphere. Several alfresco dining tables on the outside terrace afford lovely mountain views, particularly at sunset. The hotel’s pool complex is situated beneath a large, curved-glass roof and feels far more modern than any other space on the property. The area includes two hot tubs, each capable of accommodating 10 guests comfortably. An adjacent bar has a half-dozen stools and a full menu of beer, wine, and cocktails. A small nearby terrace provides a handful of lounge chairs with lovely valley views.Ample self-parking is available in a free, off-street lot with additional spots available near each of the room buildings. Wi-Fi is only free in the hotel's lobby and it can be spotty. Various local activities from hikes to zip-lining can be booked directly through the hotel.