Hotel Kokoro Arenal

The hotel, owned by Taiwanese immigrants who moved here from San Jose almost a decade ago, consists of an array of bungalows set along sloping paths in the rainforest. The laid-back property is roamed by friendly neighbors' dogs, an early-morning rooster, and the occasional wild turkey. But the center of life here is the lobby, a large open octagon with hanging chairs and a yawning bamboo roof that protects guests from the elements while letting in the sounds of the rainforest and that patrolling rooster. Later in the day or in the evening, holistic healers, women in yoga pants, Taiwanese and tico staff, and young couples lounge on the wicker chairs, chatting or checking up on Facebook while enjoying the affections of the neighbor's perpetually hungry Boston terrier.

This is a simple, rustic property that allows guests to connect with nature -- so those who mind encountering harmless fauna (such as lizards) should consider a more typical hotel. It's also not the place for those who need constant connectivity, as the rooms lack Wi-Fi. The property spans 15 acres, and about half of that space is preserved as a forested area with trails. 

The hotel lies around the bend and down the road from a busy stretch of similar-looking hotels in La Fortuna, and avoids much of the fast, noisy traffic of that area. Once you're off the main road (the colorful but relatively small sign can be easy to miss, so be prepared to make a quick right if you're coming from La Fortuna), you have to drive past a small gate and up a well-maintained road to the hotel itself. (The additional five-minute drive probably won't make much of a difference to tourists who want to pop into town for pizza.) Once you're at the hotel, the volcano is your neighbor to the south (the park entrance is a 16-minute drive), but the hotel property is otherwise swallowed up by the rainforest below.

Rooms, many housed in simple, standalone bungalows, are charmingly rustic inside, with high bamboo ceilings and ceiling fans. Several rooms come with views of the volcano to the south, but can be rather dark even by Costa Rica standards. They are decorated to feel natural in the rainforest surrounds, with wood walls, carved wooden furniture, and wood or tile floors. Bedding and pillows are simple and could use an upgrade, as some guests find the beds too hard. Windows aren't screened, so the squeamish (who probably should rethink a trip to the rainforest in any event) may have problems with the tiny lizards and millipedes that crawl in. Bathrooms are simple, with walk-in showers, toiletries, and hairdryers. During our stay the two tree houses (which are actually stilt houses) were not being rented out because of "humidity issues." 

Amenities include AC, mini-fridges, and TVs, and all units have outdoor space, usually with at least one chair (some porches, chairs, and views are better than others). The units are all definitely rustic and not rustic-luxe, so guests should come with appropriate expectations. Many enjoy hearing the sounds of the jungle at night (though some may not appreciate the sounds of the rooster in the morning). 

Features include yoga areas and a poolside bar. The restaurant, Casa Bambu, serves local dishes using organic ingredients for breakfast and dinner. Breakfast is included in most rates, and features eggs, pancakes, fruit, and cereals. Excellent free coffee is served all day. A spa palapa for massages and various therapies is located under the trees. 

The hot springs had not yet been cleaned and prepped for the high tourist season during our visit, but they include three pools and an artificial waterfall; note that they are only open 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. The rectangular swimming pool has a waterfall feature and is surrounded by slatted wooden loungers and several bistro tables.