Caleta Iguana (Casa Rosada)

In the tiny town of Puerto Vilamil, Caleta Iguana is hard to miss. The bright-pink building -- which explains how the property got its colloquial name, Casa Rosada -- stands out among the town’s mostly whitewashed structures. The hostel’s hand-painted front entrance signs advertise happy hour specials and encourage guests to “walk on in.” There’s no formal reception area or front desk staff, just a roomful of guys lying around on bean bags. We learned later that the curly-haired shirtless man who helped us with our luggage and showed us to our room was neither a hotel employee nor an Isabela resident but a frequent and beloved visitor known locally as Wiz Khalifa. 

During the day, Caleta Iguana is quiet. Guests and employees lie around in hammocks and spend time on the beach. Local iguanas sprawl on the property’s deck and bask in the daytime sun. By mid-afternoon, the music starts and the bar patrons come in droves. The party continues all night on the beach, with strong drinks, lively volleyball matches, and wild bonfires. Of course, no night would be complete without Fabo -- a local artist with a resemblance to Santa Claus, and Caleta Iguana’s resident body painter. Fabo is always around for guests who’d like, to, well, have their bodies painted ... we’ll just leave it at that. The music continues well into the wee hours, so getting a full night’s sleep in pretty much out of the question. For those who have come to Isabela for all-night fun and debauchery, Casa Rosada is the golden ticket. For just about anyone else, fortunately there are other options.

The majority of guests at Caleta Iguana are young budget travelers looking to have a good time. The clientele here is quite international, and almost exclusively under 30. 

Casa Rosada is a beachfront property on the western edge of Puerto Villamil, the tiny port town on the island of Isabela. It’s about a five- to 10-minute walk from “downtown” -- a dusty intersection surrounded by a church, a park, and about a dozen tourist-oriented restaurants. 

Geographically, Isabela is the largest island in the Galapagos, but with only 2,200 residents, it has the second-smallest population out of the four inhabited islands (tiny Floreana has a population of around 100). Isabela is a can’t-miss destination for Galapagos travelers. The volcanic island is a geologic wonder and has some of the world’s most diverse flora and fauna. Some must-see sights include La Concha de Perla, Urbina Bay, and Volcan Alcedo. But perhaps one of the most charming aspects of visiting Isabela is Puerto Villamil itself. The tiny town, with its sandy streets, humble restaurants, and friendly locals, has a utopian, out-of-time feel. It’s the kind of place where couples dance in the streets, kids run through town with abandon, and old men nap on park benches in the afternoon sunlight. It’s a place where Friday night excitement consists of watching a pick-up game at the local soccer field, and Monday morning traffic means getting off your bicycle to let an iguana cross the road. 

It should be noted that there are no banks, ATMs, or money-conversion services anywhere on Isabela. While most hotels accept major credit cards, many restaurants and local shops only accept cash. Ecuador’s currency is the U.S. dollar.

There are seven rooms at Caleta Iguana, each a bit different from the other. While they all feel a little bit like dorms -- with vinyl flooring and drop ceilings -- rooms have newish furniture and brightly painted walls. Hot-pink and aqua iguana murals give rooms a bit of personality, while patterned pillows bring pops of color to the plain white bedding. Some rooms have bunk beds, while others have twins or doubles. Be aware that not all rooms have private bathrooms -- there's a small shared bathroom on the second floor. None of the bathrooms -- whether shared or private -- have hot water, even though Caleta Iguana advertises it as a feature on its website. Rooms also lack TVs and air-conditioning, but electric fans are available on request.

For a hostel on the beach, rooms at Caleta Iguana are fairly clean. Sure, there’s some sand in the hallways and some dust on the furniture, but there's daily housekeeping, and bed linens are changed every day. We did, however, experience a small moment of contention when we discovered a few empty liquor bottles in our bathroom cabinet. Like we said … the party never stops here. 

Besides the awesome beachfront bar, a fire pit, a volleyball, and the beach itself, there aren’t many features to speak of at Caleta Iguana. Remember, it's a hostel. The beach bar is the main attraction, for guests and non-guests alike. Every day, by mid-afternoon, upbeat music starts playing, and eager bar patrons start strolling in. The atmosphere is relaxed and casual. Some bar-goers come straight from the beach in their bathing suits. By nightfall, it’s usually a pretty happening scene, with lots of dancing, a roaring bonfire, and appearances by Fabo, the body painter. The party usually lasts until the wee hours, long after the bar’s “Happy Ending” drink specials are served at midnight. One drawback? Drinks are expensive -- like New York expensive. 

Like all beaches in the Galapagos, the beach in front of Caleta Iguana is public, and free for everyone to use. This gorgeous stretch of sand is one of the most visited in Isabela, thanks to the hundreds of local iguanas who make their home on its shores. 

Wi-Fi is free throughout the property, but it’s terribly slow. The Galapagos isn’t known to have the fastest internet in the world, and Isabela is probably the slowest when it comes to Wi-Fi connectivity.