Hotel Olivedo

The quirky Hotel Olivedo is hard to miss from the outside, since the Art Nouveau structure is painted in sunny yellow and accessorized with green shutters. Built in 1896, the family-run property is now in its fourth generation of operation. The hotel maintains an eccentric yet quaint vibe inside that matches the exterior. The marble-walled reception area is tiny, but the ceramic-tile flooring, low-hanging black chandelier, and marble pillar at the end of a curved staircase blanketed with a burgundy runner make big statements nevertheless. There's a noticeable lack of a computer at the reception desk; instead, records are handwritten in a large book, contributing to the hotel’s old-fashioned quality. Family portraits alternating with framed paintings, antique floral vases lining a ledge behind the front desk, and warm yellow lighting pack the small space with even more personality. 

Other common areas are also soaked in rustic charm. The library is furnished with paintings and black-and-white prints, a grandfather clock, a deer head mounted to the wall, and drapes with floral valances. The on-site restaurant has similarly cozy details, from the flowered linen overlays on candlestick-topped tables, to the intricate, single-bulb bronze wall lamps framing the room. The romantic aesthetics make the hotel ideal for many of its visiting couples and (some) families, but there is a noticeable smell of cigarette smoke in the lobby and hallways that can be bothersome. 

Skimming the edge of Lake Como, Hotel Olivedo’s location is hard to beat for anyone looking to stay as close as possible to the water. The hotel is also less than a one-minute walk to the local ferry landing, so it's convenient for hopping on the boats that regularly tour the lake and its surrounding tourist-friendly towns of Bellagio and Menaggio. The proximity to the dock also presents the risk of boats, cars, and passersby being sources of noise disturbance. 

The hotel is a nine-minute walk from the central town square of Piazza San Giorgio, which houses the area’s most prominent landmark, the medieval church of San Giorgio. The pathway to the piazza is lined with additional restaurants, bars, and shops, making for an entertaining and picturesque walk. A 12-minute walk will lead to the historic Villa Monastero, one of Varenna’s biggest attractions, since it's an international conference center as well as the site of a historic museum and a beautiful botanical garden. 

Farther out, the tricky walking paths to the Castle of Vezio, another popular tourist sight, are too far away to reach on foot, but a car ride there takes less than five minutes. Most other tourist attractions, including the famous Basilica di San Giacomo in Bellagio and the walking paths of Menaggio, are within 30 minutes by ferry. Hotel Olivedo is a five- to 10-minute walk from the village’s main train station, which provides transportation to larger Italian cities. 

The nearest airports are both in Milan, each requiring a bus and a train to reach via public transport. The journey is about two-and-a-half hours to both Milan Malpensa Airport and Milan Linate Airport. Car rides to each airport take about an hour and a half. Hotel Olivedo does provide a shuttle to the airports for an extra fee.

Rooms at Hotel Olivedo are spacious and clean, with furnishings that look well-worn but keep in line with the Old-World ambience found throughout the rest of the property. Wooden furnishings dominate, with herringbone parquet flooring and mirrored wooden closets, chests, and end tables. Floral and paisley prints are used generously on the bed covers, upholstered chairs, and even the flower-shaped wall sconces and bedside lamps. Pastel-toned wall paint keeps the spaces looking bright, and several rooms come with skylights for even more of an airy feel. Some Standard Rooms also have windows on the floor, meaning guests technically can't see outside unless they're lying on the floor or on a ladder to look out the skylight. 

Standard Rooms all have queen beds -- there are no rooms with twin beds -- which guests have noted to be on the firmer side. Slightly larger Superior Rooms have queen or king beds, and since they're located on higher floors, come with side or front lake views. Both room types can include balconies. Balconies in the front lake view rooms offer enough room for seating and spectacular panoramas of the water. Bathrooms in all rooms have simple tiled floors and clean white fixtures. Some come with shower/tub combos, while others have walk-in showers and no tubs. Higher-category rooms feature bathrooms with double sinks. All bathrooms have handheld showerheads, simple toiletries, and hose-style hairdryers.  

Additional in-room amenities include flat-screen TVs, free Wi-Fi, safes, heating, and air-conditioning (which is on the louder side, and can be moody in the warmer months). Rooms do not include coffee- and tea-making facilities or minibars. An elevator is available only to select floors, and other accessible features for guests with mobility issues -- for instance, roll-in showers -- must be requested in advance. 

As a historic boutique property, Hotel Olivedo does not provide a lot of features. It has one restaurant with indoor and outdoor terrace seating, serving local, homestyle Italian cuisine during lunch and dinner. Separate children’s menus are available as well. The restaurant also serves a free daily continental breakfast within a short window of time each morning. The spread includes fruits, yogurts, meats, cheeses, breads, and several coffee and tea options. Although the hotel doesn’t have a separate bar, casual drinks are available on the restaurant’s menu.

In place of a business center, the library alcove above the lobby offers a work desk and a cozy reading nook, but no computer. Free Wi-Fi is available throughout the hotel. Surcharges apply for the on-site, self-service parking lot.