Casa Bella Boutique Hotel

In a city that's packed with grungy budget hotels, worn all-inclusives, and prohibitively expensive resorts, Casa Bella Boutique Hotel is a standout -- for all of the right reasons. This hotel, founded and run by the Ungson clan, is a welcome addition to the three-pearl category in San Lucas. Over 20 years ago, Carlos Ungson decided to turn his family's home into a hotel, and many of his kin still work here. Set around a flower- and tree-filled courtyard, stepping inside provides Cabo-weary travelers an immediate respite. A pool sits in the far corner, and rooms are arranged on varying floors all around. The architecture has a Mexican hacienda feel to it, with lots of warm colors complementing the blooming plants. There's no formal lobby, and check-in takes place in the open-air entryway as guests enter from the street. This isn't a destination hotel -- as there's no proper bar or restaurant -- but that's part of what makes it feel special. The vibe is casual and calm, and plenty of repeat guests find their way here again and again. Expect to see lots of older couples -- after all, there's an undeniable romance to this property -- though some families and mature groups of friends make their way here as well.

No, this hotel isn't right on Cabo San Lucas' touristy marina, but that just might be one of its biggest strengths. Across the street is a well-kept plaza that's ringed by coffee shops and local restaurants. The immediate area has a much lower-key vibe than the town's main drags, though busy Boulevard Lazaro Cardenas -- with its bars and dubious massage parlors -- is just around the corner. There are all manner of laid-back places to eat and drink within a two-minute walk in any direction, and a five- to 10-minute walk down Lazaro Cardenas leads to legendary bars like Squid Roe, strip clubs, and all manner of booze-fueled nightclubs. The marina, with it's American-mall restaurants and dockside eateries, is only five minutes from the hotel on foot. From there, glass-bottom boats depart to the Lands End Arch and there are hawkers all around offering everything from fishing trips to party boats. Senor Frog's is a 10-minute walk in the opposite direction. For a little more local flavor, head to Calle Jose Maria Morelos, a 10-minute walk from the hotel, where streetside tamale and churro vendors can be found, as well as agua fresca shops and Mexican pastry joints. It's a solid 15-minute walk to reach the nicer parts of Medano Beach, which has designated swimming areas and calm, safe water. The airport is closer to lovely San Jose del Cabo, about 40 minutes north by tollway (or a bit longer by local roads). 

Staying here feels very much like visiting someone's home, albeit a home with lots of authentic hacienda style. While decor varies, expect to see an eclectic mix of well-kept, heavy pieces of hardwood furniture -- like wardrobes and end tables -- complemented by Old World oil paintings, rustic terra cotta tile floors, and quirky details like large tin ladybugs. Carved headboards stand over beds made with modern patterned comforters, and shelves of used books only further the homey appeal. It's small details, though, that make the difference between this hotel and its competitors -- check the windows with hand-carved wooden latches, for instance.

In-room features are limited in most rooms. All are air-conditioned and have free Wi-Fi access, but there are no TVs. Each room also comes with two free bottles of water per day. Certain rooms -- like the Junior Suite that we visited -- have a private furnished verandah plus a microwave and mini-fridge. Others, like the One-Bedroom Suite, are arranged like a railroad apartment and include a living room set with a vintage leather couch and antique chairs. There's also a microwave, wet bar, and mini-fridge in the living area, and the bedroom has a romantic four-poster bed. In some rooms, French doors open to the flower-filled courtyard. 

Bathrooms are memorable, and almost all are massive. There are no doors or curtains on the showers -- a directive of the owner, Carlos Ungson -- to avoid mildew and wear. While it may feel strange to some, the massive walk-in showers are tiled with charming Mexican tiles, and many bathrooms include skylights, closets, and even small garden areas -- yes, you read that correctly. The only con is that some music can be heard from neighboring bars and club in the evening, though that's almost unavoidable in central San Lucas. With the doors and windows shut -- and the fans and air-conditioning running -- it's less of an issue.

Relying on its prime location to provide most of the entertainment for its guests, there aren't a ton of features here, though what's on offer is enough to keep guests happy. The courtyard has plenty of tables and chairs set up for anyone looking to kick back with a book, and in the far back corner is a small, crystal-clear pool. The hotel also has a breezy breakfast terrace, where a simple continental breakfast is served that includes fresh fruit, pastries, coffee, and fresh orange juice squeezed every day. The hotel also has an ornate private room that's packed with antiques, many from China, from where the Ungson family emigrated. It can be rented out for events.

One of the best parts of this resort is its one-room spa, The Heritage Boutique Spa, run by Nora Baez. Having previously worked at the area's fancier (and more expensive) resorts, Nora offers treatments based on Mexican traditions, including her signature coffee-based treatments, and sources her ingredients from small farms, many near Veracruz. The products are all organic and vegan, and not only is Nora a wealth of knowledge, but portions of the spa's proceeds are given to animal shelters in the region. 

Otherwise, current proprietor Barbara Ungson can help arrange deals with shuttles and taxis around town (and can recommend excellent local pastelerias). The hotel can also coordinate trips and tours in the area. Beach towels and gear are all available for free to guests. For those traveling with their own car, parking in the area can be tricky on weekdays and weeknights, and there is no private parking lot. Wi-Fi is free throughout the resort and worked well during our visit.