Muthu Raga Madeira Hotel

Simple and pleasant, the Raga is best viewed as a no-frills base for travelers looking to get out and explore the Funchal region. Those looking for a longer beach resort-style vacation may be disappointed. Functionally, the hotel has everything that’s good for short stay -- sofas for lounging in public areas, a pool with sun loungers, and a funky poolside bar -- but materials are cheap, so guests shouldn’t expect high levels of comfort. The rusty color scheme of reds, oranges and browns brightens up the basic decor, though some spots look dated and cheap. The hotel appeals to couples, thirtysomethings and upwards, most here to take advantage of the bargain rates.

The Raga sits hillside, a few rows back from the sea in the Lido neighborhood -- a popular tourist spot that’s around a 10-minute drive from Funchal's city center. There are bus stops and taxi stands close by, the latter making the trip to downtown Funchal in 15 minutes. A cycle path also runs in front of the hotel. Given its tourist-heavy location, expect plenty going on in the area surrounding the hotel, with a great choice of cafes, bars, and restaurants in easy walking distance. It’s also just a five-minute walk to the coastal Lido promenade and a pebble beach. Alternatively, the more well-known Praia Formosa is less than a 10-minute drive away. Madeira’s airport is 30 minutes away by car.

Rooms here are basic and unmemorable, with light wood-effect floors and large, dark wood headboards. The use of bright reds and oranges -- seemingly inspired by the views over the rooftops and injected through stripy fabrics and bold feature walls -- helps to keep them from looking entirely stark. But there's no wall art, and furniture has an airport lounge look. Each room has air-conditioning, a mini-fridge, and a small seating area with desk-top TV, though free Wi-Fi can be spotty. Pool towels are provided. Keep in mind that double beds may only be two twins pushed together. Balcony doors lead out to a small balcony area with table and chairs, and despite double glazing, some roadside rooms will still pick up a bit of neighborhood noise. 

Views depend on the room category. Entry-level Land View Rooms look towards the hillside, while Sea View Rooms come at an upgrade. Corner rooms have the most space, but these aren’t a separate room category and are allocated at random. There’s also a choice of rooms with kitchenettes that come with a fridge and microwave. In all rooms, the bathrooms are on the small side and seem dated compared to the sleeping area, with a shower/tub combo, and shower curtain instead of a shower door. Basic toiletries and hairdryers are provided.

The Raga ticks the boxes for handy-to-have hotel features: a pool, pool bar, and two restaurants, but there are better choices nearby outside of the hotel. A roadside stone terrace houses the modern pooI (raised above the road so that guests aren’t lazing in full view of drivers), plenty of plastic sun loungers, and a poolside bar with a funky mosaic design that has echoes of Tetris about it. As a nice touch for winter city breaks, the pool is heated in colder months. 

With a black slate bar and floor-to-ceiling windows, the design of L’Horizon Restaurant is almost smart -- but the main area with long tables and dark chairs verges on boardroom formal rather than restaurant chic. However, there is a lovely, more relaxed dining area by the bar, complete with blue studded armchairs, and a large outdoor terrace with sea views. Local and international dishes are available, and the breakfast buffet gets mostly solid marks from previous guests. Other meals get mixed reviews.

It’s worth noting that, due to the hillside location, access to the reception is down a steep slope. There’s free W-Fi, though it isn't always reliable, and free private parking, too. The facilities are rounded up with an internet corner (at extra cost), a TV room, and an odd gym-slash-games room with exercise bikes, Swiss balls, and table tennis.