Riad Aguaviva

The heavy brass-studded doors of the Riad Aguaviva open onto a marble floor entryway with an unassuming front desk tucked into a quiet nook, but just beyond an archetypal Moroccan fantasy blooms in the light-filled courtyard. Tile mosaics, antique furniture, and local handicrafts fill quiet sitting areas under painted arches and balconies that are overgrown with potted palms and creeping vines sprouting flowers. There are numerous nooks as well as an exquisite plunge pool that's topped off with rose petals every evening. Above the pool sits a classical stone statue of a male figure surrounded by the huge leaves of banana plants. The whitewashed rooftop has an open shower and plenty of shade, including little booths covered by canvas and a thatched gazebo which has a mural of a Bedouin scene on one of its walls. The hotel is popular with couples and families who prefer to be away from the chaos of the main square.

Riad Aguaviva is located in the Medina of Marrakesh, near Bab El Khemis and in the same mythical setting where Alfred Hitchcock filmed "The Man Who Knew Too Much" in 1956. It's a one-minute walk from the grave of Marrakesh's patron saint (Sidi Ben Abbas) and a 10-minute walk from the Madrasa Ben Youssef (considered the true centre of the Medina). However, it's not quite in the heart of the historic center, and it takes 20 minutes on foot to reach Jemaa el Fna, the main square and marketplace. Jemaa el Fna really comes alive at night, when hundreds of local chefs pour into the square under massive white tarpaulins, cooking up delicious tagines. The square is surrounded by a maze of souks where guests can bargain to their heart's content. The Jardin Majorelle, the former house of fashion designer Yves San Laurent, is a five-minute drive away. 

Rooms are narrow, and most have just a bed and private bathroom. They're decorated in a traditional style, with rich wooden furniture, local crafts, and brightly patterned textiles. Ornate lamps and chandeliers with intricately carved designs cast warm light across walls. Some of the beds have romantic drapes around them that create a feeling of sequestered mystery. Some rooms also have dramatic arches that divide the living quarters. The bathrooms in the smallest rooms have tiny walk-in showers, while those in the largest have traditional tadelakt bathtubs. All bathrooms are decorated in a quintessentially Moroccan style, and extra romance is created with rose petals set to float in scalloped fountain bowls and bathtubs.

The helpful and informative owners at Riad Aguaviva  offer welcome drinks of mint tea to guests and detailed explanations of the city and its history, along with tips on places to visit and hand-drawn maps. The owners can arrange tours and other off-site activities on request. As in most medina riads, the courtyard pool is tiny and not heated for year-round use, but it can make for a refreshing plunge in the hot months. The riad offers home-cooked meals focused on traditional tagines, with ingredients picked up at the local market each day. Free breakfast includes coffee, yogurt, and delicious pastries served on the rooftop terrace. Guests rave about the fresh fruit salads on offer in the afternoon.