Riad La Porte Rouge

A covered passageway leads past potted palms toward an unassuming heavy wooden doorway and into the low-lit entrance hall of the Riad La Porte Rouge. New arrivals are met with a warm welcome of hot mint tea and pastries as they check in before getting a quick tour of the property by the owner, Karen. The layout is typical of the riad structure -- seven guest rooms overlook a peaceful central courtyard and pool, and a rooftop terrace offers panoramic views of the surrounding medina. Decor also draws heavily from traditional Moroccan styling, with a particularly lovely blend of crimson fabrics that complement whitewashed walls and dark wooden carved ceilings and doorways. Traditional "bejmat" flooring tiles, intricate wrought ironwork, and a huge central hanging lantern adds to the exotic charm, while snug lounges provide lovely nooks in which to unwind, often in the company of the resident cat, Max. 

While the approach to the hotel can feel a little gritty, its Bab Ahmar neighborhood at the southern end of the medina is one of the more peaceful -- albeit also a bit tricky to find. The famous Djemaa el-Fna square -- full of snake-charmers, fortune-tellers, and orange juice vendors -- is almost a 25-minute walk away. The Bahia Palace and Saadian Tombs are about a 15-minute walk north, as is Place des Ferblantiers, which has restaurants and plenty of bars that serve alcohol. The Mellah, the city's old Jewish quarter where spice traders and artisans still ply their wares, is also within a 15-minute walk. Although not far from transport roads, there's no direct car access, and an airport transfer organized through the riad is highly recommended to find the place. Marrakech Menara Airport is about 15 minutes away by car.

There are seven air-conditioned guest rooms, each of which is individually styled in a lovely blend of Moroccan decor and furnishings, including patterned rugs, intricate carved detailing, and "tadelakt" polished plasterwork. Heavy velvet drapes and traditional lamps, scattering pinpoints of light, create a magical mood. A liberal scattering of rose petals add a dash of romance, too. Bathrooms, with ornately designed sink basins, have walk-in, open showers. As in most riads, guest rooms do not have TVs or minibars, but they come with good Wi-Fi, bathrobes, and fresh fruit on arrival. 

A daily-changing breakfast menu -- included in the room rate --- is served in the small dining area or on the roof terrace during warmer months. Refreshments such as fresh orange juice, mint tea -- even ice cream -- are also available on request throughout the day. The rooftop area has a lovely Berber-style tent -- with plush seating where guests can arrange to smoke a shisha pipe -- as well as a shaded, beautifully tiled hot tub. Guests can arrange massages and body scrubs in the small treatment room. There's also a courtyard plunge pool -- though there's no hammam on-site.