Casa Oaxaca

With a fresh, sky-blue facade surrounded by colonial cobblestones, Casa Oaxaca gives little away about its colorful past -- starting out as a 16th century monastery, a printing factory, and then a private home. The subdued signage and intercom entrance certainly feels more like a residence than a business, which is precisely the idea. The Casa's German owners originally used this as a guest house; those that stayed here enjoyed their time so much, they’d tell their friends, and eventually word spread until Casa Oaxaca, the hotel, was born. With just nine rooms and a "no kids under 12" policy, it retains its exclusive and intimate vibe. 

Just inside, the minimalist reception area greets guests with lofty sky-lit ceilings over white rendered walls, terra-cotta hexagon tiles, and contemporary artwork that all set the style tone. 

Established trees, climbing vines, and potted cacti bring nature into the main courtyard which doubles as the alfresco dining space for the famed in-house restaurant. From here the property unspools with pretty rooms and public spaces. Rooms are spread throughout the property -- some neighbor the main courtyard; others reside upstairs; and the master suite is nestled at the rear, overlooking lush bougainvillea gardens to the azure-blue pool. Between the pool, courtyard and rooftop patio with hammocks and seating, there’s no shortage of spots to spread out. And well-dressed waiters are on hand to whip up espresso coffees, concoct “mezcalinas” (creative mezcal cocktails), or pour a glass of Mexican vino. 

Located a 25-minute drive from Oaxaca International Airport, Casa Oaxaca resides on a quiet thoroughfare in close proximity to many city sights. A three-minute walk takes guests to famed Santo Domingo, which is surrounded by shops, restaurants, and traffic-free streets perfect for meandering. It’s a seven-minute walk to San Felipe Neri church; 10 minutes to Basilica of Our Lady of Solitude; and four minutes to the Museum of Contemporary Art. The Zocalo (the city’s main square), is seven minutes’ walk, and a multitude of museums, galleries, restaurants, and bars are within easy walking distance. Markets -- Benito Juarez, Mercado de Artesanias (artisans), and Mercado 20 de Noviembre (food) -- are all within close proximity of one another, 10-to-12 minutes’ walk away. Oaxaca International Airport can be reached in 30 minutes by car.

Casa Oaxaca’s nine rooms come in Standard and Suite categories (with king or queen beds), and while they’re all spacious and chic, each has its own personality and attributes. Lofty ceilings, terra-cotta tiles, modern artwork, and rustic-modern timber trim and window shutters are consistent themes. Palettes are largely neutral with the odd bold accent, and fresh-cut flowers bring their own jolt of color. All rooms feature flat-screen TVs, phones, safes, and extra blankets and pillows -- though it's worth noting that they're missing coffee/tea facilities and minibars, which are typically found at this pearl level. Bathrooms, done up in soft gray or deep green marble, feature big walk-in showers and a generous supply of Bulgari toiletries. Suites are worthy of a magazine spread, stepping up style, space, and plush extras. Unfolding over two levels like its own private residence, the Master Suite, is a real knockout and perfect for those seeking complete privacy. 

Casa Oaxaca's restaurant is reason enough to stay here. The cooks turn out divine free breakfasts that honor Mexican cooking tradition, while evening meals take a more adventurous turn with both a la carte and fixed five-course options that take native Oaxacan ingredients and flavors in exciting new directions -- designed around what’s available at the market. Casa Oaxaca’s culinary impact has been so great, it’s led to a series of spinoff establishments both in Oaxaca and Mexico City. Those that want a tutorial in the local cuisine can book a ‘Flavors of Oaxaca’ cooking workshop, which takes place in the hotel kitchen. 

But Casa Oaxaca has other virtues apart from dining. Its lovely courtyard pool, nestled at the rear of the property, offers a quiet spot to linger with deck chairs and beach towels on hand. It's set next to a detox hut inspired by ancient Aztec ritual. A handsome library is located off the reception area, and free Wi-Fi is provided. Weddings are welcome so long as the entire hotel is booked for the occasion. On-site massages, mani/pedis, and yoga classes can be arranged when booked ahead of time.