Rivera del Rio Boutique Hotel

Rivera del Rio’s exterior facade looks like any other on the block — a slender three-story building with white gates and lots of foliage. The hotel’s name placard is barely visible against the ivy-covered walls, and only a TripAdvisor plaque hints at the building’s status as a hotel. A flight of stairs leads to the second-floor lobby, where wham, the wild decor hits like a punch in the gut. At first, the lobby feels like a sensory overload — turquoise sofas, corinthian columns, hanging plants, patterned tiles, a million knickknacks, and…is that a pool? But as guests spend more time at the property and come to know its history, they’ll discover that the hotel’s seemingly random design is actually a reflection of its beloved original owner, “Silver” Maria Cortez. An eccentric, and much revered artistic icon in Puerto Vallarta, Cortez owned what is now Rivera del Rio until her death in 2011. Many of the hotel’s artsy and sometimes wacky decorative pieces are from Silver’s private collection, and many who knew her claim that the hotel’s whimsy is the perfect homage to her larger-than-life character. Silver’s grandson, Alex, inherited the property and transformed what was once a private home into a stunning — if peculiar — boutique hotel. While some travelers may find the decor a bit gaudy, others will be delighted by its uniqueness. 

Rivera del Rio’s clientele is a mixed bag. During our visit we encountered both gay and straight couples, large adult friend groups, and several business travelers. There’s also a good mix of Americans and Europeans. While the hotel is technically family-friendly, we wouldn’t recommend it for families with young kids. The hotel has tons of stairs and narrow passageways, which may be difficult to navigate for parents with little ones. Also, some decor might be a bit too adult for young travelers. Guests with mobility issues should be made aware of the hotel’s unconventional layout and stairs as well. The hotel has a manually operated elevator that only reaches certain rooms. The hotel’s pool and rooftop terrace are not accessible, and many rooms have multiple levels. 

Located on a quiet street on the banks of the River Cuale, Rivera Del Rio is ideally situated for travelers seeking a quiet atmosphere and easy access to town. Rivera del Rio’s surrounding neighborhood is primarily residential, so guests can easily walk to authentic Mexican restaurants, mom-and-pop shops, local art galleries, and flea markets. The tranquil Rio Cuale is also an excellent spot for quiet relaxation. Downtown Puerto Vallarta and the beloved Malecon (a beachfront walkway similar to a boardwalk) are a 15-minute walk from the hotel. Additionally, Playa de los Muertos, one of the area’s most popular beaches, is about a 20-minute walk. The hotel is about a 30-minute drive from the airport, depending on traffic.  

It’s impossible to give a generalized overview of the eight rooms at Rivera del Rio because each has its own unique style. Many repeat guests like to try a new room for each return visit, to experience a different facet of the hotel. The Green Room is dark and intense, with ornate furniture, gold curtains, and faux medallions painted on the walls. In contrast, the Candelaria Suite is soft and demure, with pink and purple tones, flowery bedding, and a gold chaise lounge fit for a queen. Scarlett is sultry and romantic, while Alejandro almost feels ethereal. Carlotta and Cortez feel like luxe apartments, with full kitchens, grand living spaces, ornate fireplaces, and private entrances. 

Of course, guests can expect plenty of Silver’s quirky artwork throughout the rooms, along with modern amenities like flat-screen TVs, electronic safes, mini-fridges, ironing equipment, and hairdryers. A few of Rivera del Rio’s rooms feel dark and lack natural light. Some have balconies, but most do not have private outdoor space. Bathrooms are just as extravagant as their rooms, with any combination of glitzy fringe pendant lighting, hanging plants, gold sink basins, and large soaking tubs. Most bathroom fixtures are a bit dated, but anything too modern might look out of place here. Rivera del Rio has a property-wide water filtration system, so guests can drink the tap water and use it to brush their teeth.  

The green mosaic tile pool is a standout feature at Rivera del Rio. Though it’s tiny, the pool is a popular hangout spot. Throughout the day and into the night, guests relax in the pool and around the patio, while taking in the sights and sounds of the neighborhood. A black spiral staircase leads from the pool deck to the rooftop terrace, which has a large hot tub and a few lounge chairs. The terrace offers incredible views of the neighborhood and the mountains in the distance. It’s a great spot for people watching, but is an even better place for a massage. The hotel can arrange private massages for guests, and many people choose to have theirs on the terrace. At night, the masseuse transforms the space into a private salon, with billowy white curtains, candles, and an Enya soundtrack. The calming music mixed with the cacophony of the street below somehow creates an enticing atmosphere that can’t be replicated in any spa — trust us, we’re lucky enough to know from experience. 

Rivera del Rio doesn’t have a full-service restaurant, but staff members serve a delicious hot breakfast each morning in the lobby. Guests choose from a small menu that consists of Mexican specialities like chilaquiles and huevos rancheros, and American favorites like pancakes and omelets. The morning meal also includes freshly squeezed juice, coffee or tea, and incredible pastries from a local bakery. There are also a few tables set up along the river so guests can take their breakfast outside. Throughout the day, guests can order “room service” from a nearby restaurant. Expect exceptional guacamole, tacos, and volcajetes — massive stone bowls filled with meats, cheeses, and vegetables that have been cooked in salsa. 

Wi-Fi is free for all guests and works well across the property.