Hotel Leta

Hotel Leta has a charming exterior that doesn't quite match up with the fading interiors. The multistory structure is whitewashed with blue shutters, in the traditional Cycladic style, and the buildings have staircases that lead to a rooftop deck and the courtyard swimming pool. While everything is mostly in good repair, there's a sense of faded grandeur about the place. On our visit, we saw a few guests mingling around the pool and asking questions at the front desk, but most guests spend the entire day away from the hotel and only return to sleep and shower. Kids aren't allowed here, so the atmosphere is mostly quiet. Note that the hotel closes for the season in mid-October and opens again around March. 

Hotel Leta has an unusual location for Fira. It can either be accessed by car dropoff off of the bustling 25is Martiou (busy with bus and ATV traffic and lined with casual shops, fast food restaurants, and car rental outlets) or accessed by foot via a winding donkey path that meanders down the hill. Neither way is completely convenient, but if you're arriving by donkey path, look for the neighboring Sweet Pop Hotel, which is much better signed than Hotel Leta. Salt and Pepper restaurant is a three-minute walk away (reservations are usually mandatory) and it takes about 10 minutes walking uphill to reach Fira's caldera and famous Jewelry Market and shops. Oia is around a 25-minute drive or bus ride from the hotel. The large, central bus station is about an eight-minute walk down the hill from the hotel. It's about a 10-minute walk to reach the cable cars that lead down to the ferry and cruise port. Santorini Airport is about a 10-minute drive. 

Most people choose to stay at Hotel Leta because of the low rates, so it's tempting to book one of the cheaper rooms. But these have old-fashioned bedding, simple furniture, small TVs, and some alleyway-style outdoor spaces with no views. It's a better idea to upgrade to one of the Superior Rooms, which have a more modern look, large flat-screen TV, mini-fridge, and views of the pool. All units are air-conditioned and come with free Wi-Fi. Bathrooms also vary by room type, and some are quite small with tiny showers covered by fabric curtains. The Superior bathrooms have rainfall showers. Toiletries are provided. Look for the wall-mounted hairdryer in the bedroom, next to the mini-fridge. 

Features are incredibly limited at Hotel Leta. The hotel used to provide breakfast, but that service has been done away with. Now the only food and beverages available at the hotel are free coffee and tea near the lobby. Wi-Fi is free throughout the hotel. The best feature is a swimming pool in the courtyard, along with some chic sun loungers and potted plants -- but the area doesn't get a lot of natural light throughout the day.