Hotel Baia del Capitano

Olive trees and leafy gardens are tranquil here, where a mostly leisure-oriented couples, tour group, and families crowd come for calm and beach proximity. The hotel's archways and turrets overlook expansive lawns, where parasol-shaded wickers are great for al fresco dining, and loungers dotting grounds continue around the outdoor pool. Waters are chilly though, and the pool bar is only open mid-May through mid-October. Interiors are dated and in need of an update, outfitted with blue tile, red-and-mustard-yellow striped armchairs, yellow stained-glass accents, and a hodgepodge of wood furniture. Coming for the outdoors, though, guests don't mind, and a rooftop terrace affords panoramic sea and countryside vistas, although it's sparsely furnished. Live evening music accentuates tradition at the Sicilian restaurant, and food here is good. 

The hotel's isolated setting adds to its charm, although not being downtown isn't for everyone, and a vehicle is recommended. The Palermo-Messina A20 highway makes for easy access, and Cefalu is a 14-minute drive. Narrow streets here are packed with authentic restaurants, and red-roofed houses are traditional around the town's bay. Byzantine mosaics at Cefalu Cathedral are a 17-minute drive, as is the Rocca fortress, where climbs afford panoramic vistas. Beach-wise, there's a small, rocky one a two-minute walk from the property, plus a sandy beach with a private section located 10 minutes on foot -- shuttles to it are free. Trains from Palermo run to Cefalu Train Station, a 12-minute drive, and Palermo Airport is just over one hour by car. 

Divided between the main hotel and annex units with patios, rooms are dated and have similar furnishings in varying color palettes. Guests can expect warm oranges or pale yellow walls, patterned bedspreads in blue or orange, beige tiled floors, and green or blue wicker furniture. Small floral or generic artwork add some decor, and some rooms have attractive exposed wood ceilings. Entry-level rooms can be dark from small windows, and not all guarantee balconies, but Triple and Quad units are great for groups or families. Upgraded rooms have small furnished balconies or terraces, sea or garden-facing windows, circular seating areas, and jetted tubs. All rooms come with phones, desks, flat-screen TVs, mini-fridges, safes, and AC, but no tea- and coffee-making facilities are provided. Compact bathrooms in green or blue tiles have small stall showers or shower/tub combos, bidets, towels, toiletries, and hairdryers. Rooms can be fitted with cribs.

Unheated and small, but in a sunny spot, the outdoor pool has adjacent loungers, umbrellas, and a bar. The bar serves drinks, light lunches, and ice cream in summer months. A scenic rocky beach is a two-minute walk away, or the hotel has a private section on a sandy beach with a bar, located a 10-minute walk or free shuttle ride away. Note that beach passes are only available in the summer. Restaurant Kefale's pastas and fresh fish dishes are popular, as is summer garden seating on sun-drenched terraces with umbrellas. This is particularly true for dinner, when lit-up outdoor spaces are romantic and diners are serenaded by piano or folk music. Served buffet-style, free breakfasts include cooked, continental, and Italian options. 

Free shuttles to Cefalu and the beach fill up fast, and are best reserved in advance. Note that they stop running at night, so evening return journeys require cars or taxis. A tennis court and ping-pong table are available, as is a kid-friendly playground. There are no gym or spa facilities, however. Pets are welcome for a fee. Covered on-site parking and Wi-Fi throughout the property are free.