Pasanggrahan Royal Guesthouse

Set back from the road and shaded by leafy trees, the Pasanggrahan Royal Guesthouse's serene, dignified exterior contrasts pleasantly with the harried commercial feel of Front Street. Inside, cheerful yellow walls and touches of white lattice soften potentially stuffy gilt-framed paintings, flowery fabrics, and peacock chairs.

The property has a rich history stretching back to 1904. It's served as a rooster farm, governor’s residence, and even the home of the Dutch Royal family throughout its history. Most rooms include a nod to the building’s stint as a rooster farm, with roosters depicted in statues, paintings, or as a motif on hand-carved furniture. But despite its royal name and previous occupants, the hotel feels more homey than regal, although Indian spool tables, madras valances, and Victorian-era furnishings impart an aristocratic air. The restaurant and bar area is quite laid-back, but the hotel has a fairly hushed ambience otherwise -- it’s definitely not the place for partying. This atmosphere mainly draws couples of varying ages. 

The back of Pasanggrahan Royal Guesthouse faces toward Great Bay Beach and its curving boardwalk. The front of the hotel opens up onto Front Street, Philipsburg’s main shopping street, which is lined with jewelry stores, restaurants, duty-free shops, and high-end boutiques like Ralph Lauren and Tiffany's.

This proximity to Front Street may be a pro or con depending on your perspective. On the con side, the narrow, touristy street is often clogged with cruise ship passengers and sometimes closed to traffic, which can make getting to and from the hotel a challenge. Many stores and restaurants close in the evening after the cruise ships depart, and the street is often unsettlingly quiet after dark. There are two casinos, Jump Up and Diamond, within a five-minute walk.

Fort Amsterdam and Little Bay Beach are a six-minute drive away from the hotel. Princess Juliana International Airport can be reached in about 20 minutes by car, while the French capital of Marigot is 25 minutes away. For those without their own transportation, there are several minibus stops within Philipsburg. The minibus is affordable and runs to most areas of the island, but it doesn’t operate according to a fixed time table. 

Rooms at the Pasanggrahan Royal Guesthouse exude an old-school elegance. The decor varies from room to room with four-poster beds, Victorian sofas, framed paintings, and hand-stitched quilts among their typical features. All rooms include balconies with patio furniture and soft lounge chairs. Most rooms have ocean views, though the Fisherman’s Quarters Rooms offer less desirable, but still appealing views of Philipsburg. Rooms also have flat-screen TVs, free Wi-Fi, and simple coffeemakers.

Standard Rooms are a bit small and, although cozy, show more signs of age than the suites. Bathrooms have dated fixtures, off-brand toiletries, and partially glass-enclosed showers. Bathrooms in the suites are more modern, with separate showers and bathtubs. Suites also include separate sitting areas, kitchens, and larger balconies.

Though it lacks a few expected features, such as a pool, the Pasanggrahan Royal Guesthouse has pleasant amenities that add to its value and appeal. The on-site restaurant, Moana Steak & Sea Food Restaurant, specializes in fresh fish caught by the hotel’s deep sea sport fishing boat. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner (with closures between services), the restaurant also offers Saba lobsters, as well as meat and veggie entrees. White tables brighten the appearance of heavy, marine antiques, such as wooden steering wheels, in the restaurant’s sunny interior. The dining room spills out into a beach bar overlooking Great Bay Beach. Nightly dinner specials and happy hour draw locals and non-hotel guests. Note that breakfast isn't included in the room rate.

The same deep-sea sport fishing boat that catches fish for the restaurant can be chartered to take guests on excursions. Typical catches include mahi mahi, wahoo, and yellowfin tuna, which guests can later dine on at the restaurant.

The hotel backs onto Great Bay Beach, a wide, one-mile-long beach with an attractive boardwalk. The beach is ringed by rolling green hills, and on a clear day the island of Saba is visible on the horizon. With cruise ships docking nearby, the beach can get crowded during the day but typically clears out later in the afternoon. The hotel provides lounge chairs, beach umbrellas, and beach towels for guests.

Free Wi-Fi is available throughout the hotel, though the signal isn't strong. There’s a tiny free parking lot in front of the hotel, as well as a larger parking garage nearby.