Phuphaya Seaview Resort

At its heart, Phuphaya is a simple operation for backpackers and partiers. What separates it from the many in-town guesthouses catering to that audience is its astonishingly beautiful views of Lo Dalum Bay. In this regard, it is a huge upgrade over the many bare-bones backpacker spots in Tonsai. Gorgeous views, however, are about where Phuphaya's pros begin and end, according to most people who have stayed here. The hotel's dubious cleanliness and maintenance issues, lack of amenities and customer service, and location past the slums of Tonsai and up a very steep hill cause many guests to utter something along the lines of "never again" on their way out. Some guests even check out early to find an alternative place to stay on the island.

Still, for young backpackers who just want to hang out by the pool and soak up the view, this place fits the bill. More than fits the bill, as the pool offers maybe the best views of Lo Dalum Bay of any hotel on the island. Throughout the day, young guests down mixed drinks, drift on floaties, and recap the havoc wreaked the night before over rave music. The rest of the resort has a homegrown feel, with structures made of wood, bamboo, corrugated metal, and thatch scattered around an overgrown hillside yard with hammocks and picnic tables. Budget travelers in Ko Phi Phi who want to party hard, pay very little, and see amazing views should be content here. Guests -- mostly couples and friends, virtually no families -- largely hail from Australia, Europe, and North America. 

Phuphaya is one of the last resorts on the eastern slope of Lo Dalum Bay, on the car-free island of Ko Phi Phi Don. Its hilltop real estate provides truly beautiful views over the water and island, but it is hard to reach. The 10-minute walk from Tonsai village isn't so much a walk as it is a true hike. And one that goes through Tonsai's trash-filled slum area. Past guests have said that the grueling hike is made more unpleasant due to the smell of sewage. Guests should be sure to arrange luggage transport with the hotel before their arrival. A bellhop from the hotel will meet guests on Tonsai pier and cart their luggage for them.

Lo Dalum Bay is party central on Ko Phi Phi Don, and many beach bars can be reached in a few minutes' walk from the hotel. On the flip side of this, party noise from the beach can be heard until the early morning hours.

Rooms at Phuphaya come in four categories. The most basic option is a non-air-conditioned room with nothing but a double bed, a fan, and a private bathroom with a cold-water shower. These are located in a garden-facing, metal-roofed room building in the back of the resort, near the entrance and away from the pool and views. The next step up is a freestanding bamboo bungalow with both a fan and air-conditioning, as well as hot water, a safe, and a flat-screen LCD TV. These are also in the back of the resort, but they are pointed toward the bay and have private balconies. Deluxe Bungalows are the same, but have better views of the sea. The Deluxe Bungalows closest to the pool and the bay are the best, but their view is somewhat curtailed by the chain-link fence that partitions the property.

Accommodations ratchet up all kinds of negative feedback, most having to do with the beds. "Beyond terrible," "awful," and "a piece of granite" are some of the ways the beds have been described on our sister site TripAdvisor. One recent Australian guest said he would rather sleep on the ground. In addition to being as hard as stone, beds sometimes have discolored sheets and pillows. Other common complaints have to do with the smell of mildew, dirty AC filters, zero soundproofing, backed-up shower drains, and little storage, though guests in the pricier sea-view bungalows are generally happier with their experience. On the plus side, housekeeping cleans the rooms daily and Wi-Fi is free.

Phuphaya's very best feature is its infinity pool overlooking Lo Dalum Bay. As far as we know, this pool has the best Lo Dalum views of any hotel pool in the area. There is usually a daytime party scene here, with the twenty-something clientele drinking cocktails and beers while club music blasts. The pool itself is small, though, and many past guests have questioned its sanitation. Adjoining the pool is Phuphaya's bar/restaurant, where a free breakfast is set up in the mornings. The spread of cold scrambled eggs, toast, rice, and melon is generally found to be subpar. Food is available throughout the day, but the menu is small; the kitchen is often out of items; and service is slow.

The hotel offers luggage transport for guests arriving on Tonsai Pier. This service must be arranged with resort ahead of time. Boat tours and transit can also be arranged on-site. Laundry is available for a fee, and Wi-Fi is free throughout the property.