Hotel Baren

Originally opened in 1888 and re-opened after a major fire in 2014, this family-run hotel is a contemporary lodging option in a largely traditional area. Nods to the past are, admittedly, evident. The five-story structure’s facade, for instance, is clad in wood shingles and the balconies are graced with flower boxes; nevertheless, the architecture and an abundance of glass give the exterior a thoroughly modern look. Ditto for the common areas: the bar that dominates the light, bright lobby may have the mandatory fireplace and rustic regional touches (note the rough-hewn wood bears that act as table supports), but the overall effect is more cool than quaint. The sleek couches, upholstered cubes, and curvaceous wingback chairs there provide ample space for guests to gather—and the fact that hotel perks include loaner walking sticks, rental bikes, and guided hikes underscores the fact that they’re an outdoorsy bunch.

This Black Forest hotel sits near the north end of lovely Lake Titisee, about seven minutes on foot from the waterfront promenade. Freiburg, the region’s medieval hub, is less than 20 miles away; however, the immediate area—namely the lake itself and the hilly woodlands that surround it—appeal more to active vacationers than history buffs or culture hounds. Swimming and boating are extremely popular here in summer, while snow sports dominate in winter. There are several  downhill ski areas close by (including Liftverbund Feldberg, the largest German ski resort north of the Alps), and a Nordic trail network that covers more than 185 miles of stunning Black Forest terrain welcomes cross-country skiers. Proximity to the famed Westweg (a long-distance path which passes through the twee town of Titisee) draws hikers and bikers to the location as well. Note that easy autobahn access and free onsite parking make Hotel Baren convenient for motorists, but having a car isn’t necessary in these parts. The local train station is just a minute’s walk away (a free shuttle means you don’t have to haul luggage); moreover, the nightly rate includes a Konus Card, which allows for free 2nd-class public transport within much of the region. Ground transfers to either the EuroAirport or Zurich Airport (both under 90 minutes away) can be arranged on-site. 

• One-minute walk to the Titisee Train Station
• Seven-minute walk to the Seestraße (Titisee’s pretty lakefront promenade)
• 19-minute drive to Liftverbund Feldberg 
• 36-minute drive to Freiburg (38 by train)
• 79-minute drive to EuroAirport Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg 
• 89-minute drive to Zürich International Airport 

Hotel Baren offers attractive rooms in nine categories, which differ mainly in terms of size and the quality of finishes (the lowest-tier ones, for example, are carpeted while the rest boast hardwood floors). Ranging from 260-square foot Classic Doubles to 540-square foot Treetop Junior Suites, all have a stylish modern look that’s enlivened by retro-ish armchairs and other carefully chosen accents, typically in autumnal tones. All also come outfitted with tea/coffeemakers, minibars, digital safes, flat-screen satellite TVs, free Wi-Fi, and south-facing balconies or terraces that look out over forested slopes. Across the board, the matching bathrooms feature showers—some standard, some walk-in—plus welcome extras like robes, towel warmers, and magnifying mirrors; junior suites include upgraded versions, usually with double sinks and separate toilet cabinets (if you're desperate for a bathtub, Liebding-class units have ones positioned at the foot of the bed). 

The sublime natural setting is this hotel’s best feature, but it does offer some alluring in-house extras. For starters there is a pair of well-regarded restaurants: the airy, casual Bärenstube and more upscale Sauter´s. The former serves a big traditional breakfast spread each morning plus local fare (including the obligatory Black Forest cake) later in the day, either indoors or, weather permitting, out on a sunny terrace; Sauter´s, open for dinner only, aims for more international cuisine while still highlighting fresh seasonal ingredients on its five-course menus. Light bites and bevvies, meanwhile, are available in the cozy yet contemporary lobby bar.  

This being the Black Forest, it’s no surprise that Hotel Baren houses a spa, too. Done up in tranquil colors, it features a steam room, indoor and outdoor saunas and suites for both therapeutic and beauty-oriented treatments (including grape-based “weinwellness” ones). The facility also contains an open-to-all indoor pool that’s long enough for a few laps; fitness fans, though, will be disappointed to know that the only actual exercise machine on-site is a single stationary bike that’s set amidst the ping-pong, foosball and billiards tables in the hotel’s games room. Other features include a sensory walking path; a rooftop sundeck; an event space for meetings or private dining; a smoking lounge; free guest computer stations; and free Wi-Fi throughout.