Hotel Lagunita

Yelapa is a tiny town and beach destination on the coast of Mexico, where the dense jungle meets the sea. You can only reach Yelapa, and Hotel Lagunita, by a bumpy water taxi ride – there are no roads to the town, and no cars exist in Yelapa. This is not a place for those who shy away from adventure. For those looking for a far off the beaten track experience, close to nature and local culture, this may be the ticket.

The speed boat ride, which takes about 45 minutes from Puerto Vallarta, is an amazing journey on its own. You'll zoom away from the city and past miles of untouched jungle along the coast. When you arrive in the bay of Yelapa, you will see a colorful village that is built into the hill and a beautiful crescent of beach. The place has the feeling of a deserted island, and you may feel like a castaway on a secret cove. The boat will drop you off at the Lagunita pier, which sits at the end of the beach, and a stone path leads along the water’s edge to the reception desk at the other side of the property.

Hotel Lagunita first opened here in the '60s, and has always been a Yelapa staple as it was one of the first and only hotels in the area. It consists of rustic, open cabins with thatched palapa roofs. Cobblestone paths lead off in several directions, winding between the huts a bit like a maze, adding to the mystery and whimsy of the place. The property has a lush tropical setting, with the jungle trees leading right up to the beach.

There are 28 rooms at Lagunita, and the seven Beachfront Cabins are steps from the sand, facing out onto the beautiful beach and bay. The rustic nature of the rooms cannot be understated – travelers used to luxury experiences will not be happy here. The cabins are rugged; it’s kind of like camping – think of cobwebs in the rafters and various critters scurrying through your room. Hot water and Wi-Fi are available, though they are not always working well.

Yelapa is a small village and beach destination on the coast of Jalisco, Mexico in a picturesque bay. It is surrounded by dense jungle in a largely uninhabited part of the country that is not accessible by road. There are no cars in Yelapa, which makes it very quiet and old fashioned, and the only ways to get around are by boat, on foot, or on the back of a donkey, when needed. The town can be reached by water taxis that originate from the beach in Puerto Vallarta or farther south from Boca de Tomaltan, and several boats run each day – but be sure to ask about the schedule as it changes by season. The bumpy speed boat ride takes about 45 minutes, and the pier at Playa Los Muertos is about a 25-minute taxi ride from the airport.

Hotel Lagunita is located at the very end of the beach, on the east side of Yelapa, which is opposite from the town. It’s about a 20-minute walk across the beach, when the tide is low, to reach the town, which is on a steep hillside. Then you ascend a large staircase to get up to the main footpath of the village. If the water is high, you’ll have to take the road that goes back through the forest. There’s a nice waterfall about a 15-minute hike farther up past the main road.

The 28 cabins all have thatched palapa-style roofs, yet the interiors differ in style and space. To describe them as rustic is probably an understatement. The Beachfront Cabins have open windows facing the beach with just a cloth cover. Some of the thatched roofs are patched up in places with blue plastic tarp to fill holes and prevent rain getting through. The roofs have gaps that are open to the outdoors, and so mosquito nets are often necessary, and guests like crabs, geckos, and insects are common.

Some rooms are built into the hillside, quite literally: One room is built around a massive 10-foot tall boulder that separates the bathroom into two sides – a toilet on one side and a shower on the other. Overall, the bathrooms are dark and feature rusty showerheads, stained tile, and chipping plaster. Again – this is not be the place for those accustomed to luxury. But for guests who want to unplug, unwind, and connect with nature, this is the spot. There are no TVs and power outlets are scarce.

The furnishings are simple; a few small tables and a dresser outfit the space. There are some simple sheets for bedding, and some guests find beds hard and uncomfortable. There is no AC but fans are provided. The Honeymoon Cabins are larger and have slightly more updated accommodations – including wood-lined roofs and a partially outdoor bathroom that has an outdoor shower featuring views of the ocean. Most rooms include a small porch or outdoor seating area with two chairs all of the rooms have amazing views of the misty bay.

The hotel features a unique pool that is designed to mimic the natural environment – it is by large rocks and boulders that give it the feeling of a natural swimming pond. The hotel wants its property to feel natural and like a part of the landscape, rather than in opposition to it. The bottom of the pool is uneven, with several shallow rocks. It’s not ideal for jumping or for kids. The pool is perched on the water’s edge, with great views of the bay.

The beach in front of the hotel is lovely, peaceful, and wide, with plenty of space to spread out. The hotel provides a number of plastic chairs or lounge chairs, which are in various states of repair, for guests to use. There are several small gazebos or umbrellas set up to provide shade, and kayaks are available to rent for a small fee.

The Tres Amigos Restaurant and Bar is situated entirely in the sand, with outdoor seating spread about over a large area of beach. There are some tables under a large gazebo and the rest are under small palapa huts. Staff will also serve you at the lounge chairs close to the water. Mexican specialties, fresh seafood, and some Western dishes are available, like pancakes or sandwiches.

Past the restaurant, set back on the beach is a peaceful yoga studio. Classes are held daily in the high season, and sometimes yoga retreats are held here. There is also a small spa contained in a hut in the back of the property, where massages and other treatments can be arranged, open seasonally.