Ritz-Carlton, Montreal

Some grand dame hotels seem to get creaky and old as the years add up—not the Ritz-Carlton, Montreal. This beauty displays a jewel box sparkle that still feels fresh, despite the fact that the hotel dates back to 1912 and bears the distinction of being the very first Ritz-Carlton opened in North America. A study of refined gentility, the lobby is awash in regal purple and cream hues, and festooned in crystal chandeliers winking under soft lighting. On our visit, Frank Sinatra was softly crooning from hidden speakers, and guests of all kind—leisure travelers (couples, families) and a few business travelers—all milled about taking in the atmosphere and peeking into the tea salon and the restaurant. Glittering Andy Warhol-esque murals of Marilyn Monroe and Elizabeth Taylor also grace the seating area here. If there's any flaw to the space, it's that there isn't quite enough seating if larger groups appear, as the dining and event spaces take up the lion's share of the layout here.The hotel's gorgeous Palm Court anchors the lobby space. It resembles a conservatory with arching ceilings topped in painted-on palm trees. It's here guests will find the hotel's famed afternoon tea (served since 1913), and the hotel's Champagne bar. To the other side of the lobby sits Maison Boulud, the Montreal restaurant of celebrity chef Daniel Boulud. The atmosphere shifts here from feminine twinkle to a slightly more masculine bronze and beige color scheme. Up on the second floor sits the hotel's ballrooms, which often remain empty with their lights out, becoming a touch spooky. But they can turn into jovial party spaces when hosting weddings and events.

The Ritz-Carlton, Montreal sits smack-dab in the middle of the Golden Square Mile an area of Downtown that's at the base of Mont Royal. Architecture buffs appreciate that this area still holds some buildings dating back to the 1800s, although those structures are now mixed in with glossy new construction. Plenty of ritzy hotels are in the surrounding blocks, including the Sofitel and Le Mount Stephen. And dining, bars, chain stores, and movie theaters are all close at hand. Major institutions are also nearby: The Montreal Museum of Fine Arts is two blocks away, and a complex of buildings for McGill University are one long block away. The Mary, Queen of the World Cathedral is a 12-minute walk away, which will also take you to Dorchester Square. But other attractions, such as Old Montreal neighborhood, with its cobblestone streets and historical buildings, will require a 13-minute taxi ride or 25 minutes on public transportation. Likewise, hip Mile End, with its celebrated restaurants and boutique shopping, is 37 minutes on public transit or 13 minutes in a car. One great bonus about staying in the Golden Square Mile area is that summertime festivals are often held here. Reaching Montréal-Pierre Elliott Trudeau International Airport takes about 24 minutes by car or about an hour on public transportation. 

Decorated in soft creamy colors and accented with silvery wallpaper, the rooms at the Ritz-Carlton are every bit as regal as the public spaces. Traditional dark-wood furnishings like sideboards and desks are balanced by feminine touches, such as Louis-style armchairs in a bright girlish pink. Wall-to-wall beige carpeting in a swirling pattern and drum light fixture adorned with strings of Lucite beads add finishing touches to the space. Despite being a historic hotel, this Ritz-Carlton isn't out of step with the times. Bluetooth speakers, free Wi-Fi, electronic safe and USB outlets are on hand, and both the bedrooms and the bathrooms have large flat-screen TVs. The desks are also helpfully stocked with basic office supplies (stapler, scissors, and tape, etc.). Travelers with the midnight munchies will be pleased to find minibars stocked with goodies like M&Ms, Clif Bars, chips, Alcohol (Absolut Vodka, Stella Artois), plus Coke, Gatorade, bottles of wine, and other treats. These come with minibar prices, but the bottles of water are free, as are the tea and coffee for the in-room electric kettle and Nespresso machine, respectively. Closets are helpfully stocked with irons and ironing boards, umbrellas, and shoe-shine items.Service here is appropriately high end, and all rooms receive turndown service (with chocolates). Guests can also request shoe shine service or a bedding swap via the pillow menu. (The hotel touts its Beautyrest mattresses as top of the line.)But it's the bathrooms that earn the most raves from guests. Tiled in beige with roomy double sinks and heated floors, the bathrooms come appropriately stocked with bathrobes, slippers, and extensive Asprey toiletries that include items like combs, dental kits, and looflahs along with the usual shampoo and conditioner. Illuminated magnifying mirrors make grooming a breeze, and hairdryers and scales are on hand as well. But it's the fancy Japanese Toto toilets, with seat warming and bidet functions, that earns the most praise from guests. The walk-in showers are equally high-end, with rainfall, handheld, and wall mounted jets. However, there's one letdown here: rooms in the standard category typically have no separate soaking tubs, which feels like a major oversight at a property this high-end.Views can be another letdown. Some do offer pretty outlooks of Downtown, but they don’t quite match the sweeping heights of some of the other high-rise hotels in the area. Naturally, higher category rooms have better outlooks on the whole. Standard rooms, aka Junior King Suites, start at 600 square feet with garden or street views, and move up to One Bedroom Suites, Executive Suites, and the Royal Suite offering more room, higher-floor views, and extra perks like fireplaces.

The Ritz-Carlton offers up all the expected features of a luxury hotel, but not all of these are of equal quality. The on-site dining certainly gets top marks. Led by celebrated, Michelin-starred chef Daniel Boulud, Maison Boulud serves up breakfast, lunch, dinner, and weekend brunch. (Breakfast is not included in standard rates.) Just off the lobby, the hotel's pretty Palm Court serves afternoon tea, with full pomp and circumstance. Think: china teacups, fingerless sandwiches, and tiers of treats. Off to one side is the Dom Pérignon Champagne Bar. (Despite the name, it does serve other drinks apart from bubbly.) One floor up is a series of ballrooms that can be used for meeting and event space including weddings. (Packages are available). The top floor of the hotel holds a small rectangular pool encased by floor-to-ceiling views of the high-rise buildings of downtown. The locker rooms next door also hold a sauna. The hotel's gym and spa are both in the basement level. The gym is rather underwhelming for a luxury hotel. It's held in a windowless space, although it is glassed in with an outlook of the hallway, so it doesn’t feel quite as airless as some basement gyms. It’s full of TechnoGym equipment such as treadmills and steppers, plus free weights and medicine balls. The spa feels more inviting with a waterfall feature greeting guests. A full menu of indulgent treatments include the signature "Montreal Maple Sugar Massage" where a maple balm and hot stones are rubbed over the body, or the high-tech "Photo Regeneration" facial, which uses LED lights to activate collagen. A plush business center with a trio of public computers and a printer/scanner is also on hand for business travelers, or just those looking to print a boarding pass. Laundry service, room service, and concierge service are also available on request.