Caparena Hotel

Caparena Hotel offers a package that is somewhat rare in Taormina: a well-equipped resort on the beach with appeal for families and couples in equal parts. The hotel's interiors are a bit nondescript -- not horribly behind the times, not fresh off a renovation -- though an antique Sicilian painted wagon and bell in the lobby provide character and a sense of place. However, it's the sea views and outdoor spaces, namely the private pebble beach, that command guests' attention. Sea-facing guest rooms are very much worth the upgrade; these overlook the hotel's prettily manicured front lawn (you'll hear the sound of gardeners raking in the morning) and, past the train tracks, the waves. Accessed by a stone tunnel that dips below the railroad, the hotel's beach features another well-groomed lawn, a beach restaurant/bar, and both free and paid areas for lounging. All around the hotel grounds are ivy-covered walls, bougainvillea, palm trees, and cacti. Guests are mostly European families and couples who avail themselves of the beach loungers and heated pool. These features, along with the spa, gym, and two restaurants, give the Caparena a beach resort feel, though the size of the property is not overwhelming. When guests want to go up to Taormina proper, they can make the 15-minute trip aboard the hotel's free shuttle. 

Caparena is located on the Ionian Sea, below Taormina and about two kilometers to the north. There is little to see or do within walking distance, but the hotel offers free parking and a free shuttle to and from Taormina's historic town center (15-minute ride). Most guests take advantage of this service, as parking in Taormina can be tricky and the road there is full of switchbacks. The drive to Giardini Naxos Beach takes about 10 to 15 minutes (depending on traffic). Caparena is a 45-minute drive from Catania Fontanarossa Airport.

Caparena Hotel has four room categories -- Classics, Superior Doubles, Junior Suites, Caparena Suites -- but they really could just break down into sea view and non-sea view. For the record, if you book a Classic Room, there's a chance you'll be facing the wall below SS114. This is a hotel where it really pays off to upgrade, so you can guarantee seeing (and hearing) the waves from the room and its private furnished balcony. All guest rooms are rather spacious, though their size can emphasize how sparsely decorated they feel. Walls are largely unadorned, save for a coral-colored accent wall and a coral-print design behind and over the bed. Though the decor is a little paltry (another reason why you'd want a sea-facing unit), all rooms have the same amenities: soft beds, safes, minibars, and flat-screen LCD TVs with Italian-, English-, German-, French-, and Russian-language channels, including MTV, CNBC Europe, and Disney. Thick orange curtains help to block out the sunrise and any unwanted light. Bathrooms have tubs with rainfall showerheads, as well as Prija shampoo, conditioner, and body lotion. Wi-Fi is free.

Of Caparena's surprisingly many features, its private beach is its best. Just note that the railroad technically separates the hotel from the beach, so guests must walk through a stone underpass to access. Once on the beach -- which is a mix of pebbles and black sand -- guests have free access to loungers and parasols, as well as changing rooms with showers. The beach is typically (but not always) supervised by a lifeguard (there is a steep drop-off here; the water gets deep about six feet out), and water sports, such as water-skiing, kayaking, and paragliding are available for a fee. 

The hotel maintains a wide grassy lawn on the beach, neatly manicured with palm trees and yucca plants. Nearby is the hotel's beach restaurant, which serves a la carte lunch and dinner menus featuring local classics like spaghetti with clams, roasted swordfish, and a catch of the day. The beach restaurant's wine menu focuses heavily on Sicilian selections (from Agrigento, Palermo, Catania, Trapani, and Ragusa), as well as bottles from mainland Italy and France. In the summertime, the beach club area hosts regular parties with DJs until the wee hours of the morning.

Caparena's second restaurant, open for buffet breakfast and dinner, is located "inland," in the main part of the hotel. The breakfast buffet is free for all guests, and it features scrambled eggs, bacon, and a sizable selection of Sicilian cheeses (including ricotta and mozzarella), cured meats, breads, cakes and pastries (almond cakes, paradise cake, vanilla plum cake, doughnuts, Nutella croissants), and fruit. Though it's not on the beach, the buffet restaurant offers outdoor seating in the hotel's pretty garden/front lawn.

Open daily from April till October, the Caparena Wellness Club features a freshwater pool with a retractable roof that opens or closes depending on the weather, and an adjacent solarium with ivy-covered walls for a bit of privacy. Inside, wellness amenities include a Turkish bath (fee) and a hot tub in a dimmed room with blue tiled walls and a display of seashells and coral. Body treatments like massages and wraps showcase Sicilian ingredients, such as olive oil, sweet almond oil, lemon essence, honey, sea salt, and red oranges from Mount Etna. Facials, manis/pedis, and waxing are available, as are half- and full-day spa packages. The center's fitness center gets a good amount of natural light, which is reflected off the shiny hardwood floors. The gym has a complete array of TechnoGym equipment, including shoulder, chest, and leg presses; a vertical traction machine; elliptical; treadmill; and free weights.

Caparena's conference facilities consist of two AV-equipped meeting rooms that can hold up to 250 people. Off the lobby, there is a small gift shop selling generic-looking ceramics and housewares. The hotel offers free shuttle to downtown Taormina several times a day (with free return service). Parking and Wi-Fi are both free at the hotel.