Eden Resort & Spa

Guests make their way up a hilly driveway toward a large covered entryway where bellboys are waiting to assist with luggage. The marble-floored indoor lobby looks slightly outdated at first glance, but green plants and a circular atrium topped with a beautiful hand-painted mural adds charm. Arrivals receive a welcome drink and cold towel during check-in and it is not uncommon to see large groups from Europe or Asia (mostly adults rather than families).

Most of the daytime action takes place on the beach-facing side of the hotel, which is more contemporary than the lobby. The building wraps around a lawn and lively green-tiled pool that's perfect for relaxing with a book or visiting the swim-up bar. Like most resorts that line public beaches in this area of Sri Lanka, guests tend to sunbathe and swim on the hotel's property rather than on the beach. 

The hotel offers several evening options depending on guests' moods, from a casual buffet dinner followed by music at the English-style pub, to drinks at the sophisticated 7th Heaven rooftop lounge followed by fine-dining at Temptations, where diners can choose their own bottle from the glass-enclosed wine cellar. 

On the southwest coast of Sri Lanka known as Beruwala, between Kalutara and Bentota, this area was once the base for the island’s spice trade. There are colonial-era plantations (open for tours) and famous temples within easy driving distance, such as Kande Viharaya, a large Buddhist temple that's a five-minute drive or 20-minute walk from the resort. The Kosgoda Sea Turtle Conservation Project, where turtles are released into the wild, is about 20 minutes down the coast by car, and there are many local villages with shops selling handicrafts and essentials. The public beach is separated by a fence, but there may be red flags up along the dark sand due to strong currents . Better beaches for swimming and surfing (and with softer sand) lay further to the south in Bentota -- a 10- to 15-minute tuk-tuk ride away. 

Guests typically arrive by taxi, which takes under two hours from the Bandaranaike International Airport. A drive to or from Colombo takes one hour and 40 minutes, though more adventurous types can save money and take the one hour and 40 minute train ride from Colombo to the Hettimulla Railway stop, a five-minute drive from the hotel.

Rooms across the board are elegant and warm, with contemporary decor and balconies or patios that face west towards the pool and/or ocean, affording nice sunset views. The bulk of the hotel consists of Superior Rooms with hardwood floors and modern Sri Lankan hardwood furniture, taupe walls, and red and pink accents throughout, with one king, one queen, or two twin beds with chic, slatted headboards and striped silk bed runners. All guest rooms have desks, air-conditioning, flat-screen TVs, DVD players, electric kettles with tea and instant coffee, as well as bottled water and mini-fridges with minibars. 

Upgrades offer more space and amenities, though decor is similar, and Deluxe Rooms have king, queen, or two twin beds, granite floors, and larger terraces. Super Deluxe Rooms and Suites have sleek hardwood four-poster beds as well as separate living rooms, dining areas, wet bars, and more direct ocean views. Paradise Suites on the top floor feature extra touches like pillow menus and a selection of room fragrances as well as shared butler service. Two penthouse units have the best views in the resort, with an extra large sundeck overlooking the sea, a separate outdoor shower, and a butler.

Bathrooms throughout are modern, with wood vanities and raised sinks, bathtub/shower combos or walk-in showers, rainfall showerheads and removable nozzles, though some Deluxe Rooms have granite bathrooms instead of wood. We did spot a bit of dirty grout in the Standard Room bathtubs when we visited. Guests should also keep in mind that there is no Wi-Fi in rooms. 

The on-site Ayurveda Spa is an open-air, stone-and-wood complex located steps from the beach, and though some wear and tear is visible, the spa has 13 treatment rooms and is larger than others in the area. The menu offers an impressive range of treatments including full body massages, reflexology sessions, natural body wraps, jet lag relief, and Ayurvedic options. 

The freshwater pool and jacuzzi has a pleasant, winding layout with different areas for pool games and relaxing dips, as well as a swim-up bar. There are several wooden lounge chairs around the pool and surrounding lawn, but cushions aren't always available. While the beach is pretty for strolls, especially at sunset, vendors, coarse sand, and frequent dangerous conditions keep many guests at bay during the daytime. For a break from the resort, activities and excursions can be arranged through guest services for river cruises, surfing, windsurfing, water skiing, parasailing, scuba diving and deep sea fishing. Indoor activities include a small, modern fitness center and squash court, as well as billiards and darts. Wi-Fi is free in the hotel's lobby, laundry services are available, and receptionists are available round-the-clock to assist with questions and recommendations, or to call tuk-tuks and negotiate pricing. 

There are plenty of drinking and dining choices on-site and dining packages are available, though some guests have reported limited drinks selection with these options. The resort's large main restaurant, Garden of Eden, offers a mix of Sri Lankan and international buffets three meals a day with indoor or outdoor seating next to the pool as well as themed nights and live cooking stations. All-day dining is also available at Chameleon Cafe, next to the pool, for snacks and simple a la carte fare that's great when the buffet is closed. Next to the swim-up pool bar, called Captain's Deck, is a seated snack bar known as Splash that serves healthy snacks and drinks. 

7th Heaven is a sophisticated rooftop lounge that's a great spot to watch the sunset with signature cocktails, shisha pipes, and pool views. After dinner, guests can keep drinking at the pub, which has outdated furniture, an English rock motif with a disco ball, and occasional live music. 

For special occasions, Temptations is a new fine-dining restaurant open for dinner with magnificent views and contemporary decor alternating between dark wood and light fabric. There is a glass-enclosed wine room here, worth a visit alone, where guests can choose their own bottles to accompany their meal.