Mahagiri Villas

Sanur isn't known for its villa properties, though every year more seem to crop up to rival the big-scale projects being developed along the main tourist drag. Mahagiri Villas is one of the more exclusive all-villa properties, making a discrete impression that starts right off the bat. In fact, things are so intimate here that you might question whether you're actually staying at a hotel. Tranquil fountains create a distant soundtrack of trickling water, while subtly placed Balinese statuary reminds the newly arrived that they are -- in fact -- in Bali. High walls separate each of the hotel's 17 villas, which are arranged along one of the most scenic spots in Sanur -- a long pathway lined with arcing trees and flowering plants. At night, it's lit up with dozens of lanterns that create an undeniably romantic effect. This isn't the kind of place for travelers wanting to mix and mingle over beach-inspired cocktails. Instead, it's a peaceful escape that's best for couples and families looking to unwind in each other's company, without distractions.

Mahagiri Villas sits on a quiet, residential road that's one street back from the beach. Its neighbors are mostly local residents, and the Sindhu Night Market is only a five-minute walk away for awesomely authentic local eats. This is also where the northern end of Jalan Danau Tamblingan can be found, and there are several tourist shops, restaurants, and warungs in the same area. By cutting through narrow back streets -- which aren't well lit at night -- you can reach the heart of the town's tourist development in less than 10 minutes, though it takes longer by walking around on the main roads. Expect a 10-minute walk to the beach, or a five-minute ride in the hotel's free shuttle to its beach club. Kuta and Seminyak are around 40 minutes away by car, depending on traffic, and trips to the airport can take up to 30 minutes. 

As a property with few features, the focus here is on the villas. All 17 are incredibly private, separated by high walls and heavy doors -- you're highly unlikely to ever catch a glimpse of your neighbor. Once inside the individual compounds, you'll spot gorgeously tended landscaping tucked alongside massive terraces and private pools. Configurations of the villas themselves vary from single-room units to those with three bedrooms that can sleep up to nine with extra beds. Configurations also determine the villas' living spaces -- single-room units have outdoor living areas with fans that make for a lovely place to take your morning coffee. Multi-bedroom units have enclosed living rooms and full kitchens. The style is modern Balinese, with pops of bright color and local art contrasting an abundance of dark wood. Standard features include flat-screen TVs, free Wi-Fi, air-conditioning, ceiling fans, free fruit, minibars, electric kettles, French presses, and Balinese coffee. Bathrooms are massive and have separate showers and tubs. Keep in mind that the only option to shower in all villas is outdoors -- this can be a bit disarming (or freeing, depending on the traveler) when the shower is located on the large terrace, as it was in the single-room villa where we stayed. Multi-bedroom villas have less-exposed outdoor showers.

As it's all about the villas here, common amenities are limited. There is a fantastic terrace restaurant that's particularly atmospheric at night. It serves local and international dishes for all meals, though breakfast is taken in-villa for a particularly pampering experience. The multi-dish, included meal is a highlight for many guests, and is far better than the buffets offered at most local hotels. Free afternoon in-villa tea service is also offered, and private cooking classes can be arranged for a fee. A pretty spa that's soundtracked by the sounds of trickling water was opened in 2017. It has seven treatment rooms plus extras like a Vichy shower. The gym is quite basic, and there is no common pool (as all villas have their own). Entertainment takes place twice a week and is limited to low-key music and folk dance performances, again eschewing the full gamelan performances found at some local hotels. A free shuttle runs to the hotel's beach club, and while there's beachside service and free towels, it's not a proper club -- so don't expect exclusive beachside dining and drinking. Wi-Fi is free throughout the resort.