Park Hotel Kenmare

The Park Hotel Kenmare occupies an 1897 stone Victorian manor on 12 acres of lawns and gardens set along Kenmare Bay. Once inside, guests might feel as if they're stepping back in time to a formal Victorian country estate. Large wood doors lead to a grand entryway with a high ceiling and a marble fireplace topped with a huge period painting in a gilded frame. The room is accented with antique furniture, such as a large wood writing desk and upholstered armchairs with ornate wood legs. No corner is left empty here -- chandeliers, gilded mirrors, and large paintings hang throughout the hallways and lounges, and antique furniture, rich fabrics, and art objects fill every room. Architectural accents such as molded ceilings, large arched doorways, and expansive windows that look out onto the bay are a spectacular treat too. The only part of the hotel that strays from this Victorian theme is the spa, but this is no downside: Tranquil and chic with Zen-influenced minimalist modern decor, the spa features wood floors, stone accent walls, bamboo details, and window walls that look out on rock and green gardens. All these features come at a price, but for travelers seeking period character more than modern flair, the Park Hotel Kenmare is a good choice. 

The hotel is off one of the main roads that make up the triangle of streets that form the heart of Kenmare. It's a one-minute walk to the main road, where guests will find a slew of restaurants, bars, and shops. For those traveling by car, this is a good base from which to explore the region. Kenmare is located on the Ring of Kerry, a scenic route popular among tourists, and it offers easy access to the Ring of Beara, too. Regional destinations include Killarney National Park (a 20-minute drive), Glengarriff (a 30-minute drive), and Gap of Dunloe (a one-hour drive). Killarney and Killarney train station are about a 40-minute drive away. Kerry Airport is an hour's drive from the hotel. The closest international airports include Cork International Airport (about an hour-and-a-half drive) and Shanon International Airport (about a two-and-a-half hour drive). Free parking is available at the hotel. 

The Park Hotel Kenmare's 46 individually decorated rooms are full of character, with antique decor and homey accents. Hallmarks include antique wood furniture (some of which is quite elegant), upholstered chairs, ornate gold frames, and cozy touches like potted plants, and stacks of books and table games. Upgraded rooms have patterned wallpaper, ornate armoires, four-poster beds, and other extras. 

The decor sometimes crosses the line between vintage and dated: The quilted floral bedding, dust ruffles, pleated lampshades, and plastic phones, for example, seem neither true to the period nor modern. And the old building, with its creaky floors and thin walls, garners occasional noise complaints. Bathrooms vary greatly -- some have a country vibe with yellow walls and green doors, while others are fully tiled in everyday beige or brown. Standard Room bathrooms can be small, with only shower stalls, while others have shower/tub combos, double vanities, and bidets.

All rooms include 40-inch flat-screen TVs with DVD players (the hotel has a library of 300 movies that guests can borrow), CD players with iPod connectors, and free Wi-Fi. Beds have goose-down pillows and high-grade linens. Bathrooms include robes, slippers, hairdryers, and individual Floris toiletries. But certain luxury amenities like minibars or in-room coffee- and tea-making facilities are notably missing.

Room categories include Superior Rooms, Deluxe Rooms, Suites, and a Townhouse, plus the Retreats, which are private residences for longer stays. Views are of the gardens or Kenmare Bay. 

The Samas Spa is the Park Hotel's real highlight -- and it's a modern add-on open only to guests. Tranquil and chic, the spa features relaxation spaces, treatment rooms, fitness facilities, pools, and a host of treatments and rituals. For an extra fee, it offers a three-hour Samas treatment, which includes time in the thermal suite (sauna, steam rooms, ice fountain) and in the outdoor thermal infinity pool. Spa treatments include massages, facials, manicures, pedicures, hair styling, and special treatments for pregnant women and nursing mothers. Guests can also swim in the 25-meter (82-foot) stainless steel, indoor lap pool or use the small but stylish gym featuring modern cardio equipment and free weights. In addition, there's a small outdoor terrace for stretching and a fitness studio where free classes are available daily, such as yoga, Pilates, and meditation. 

Another major draw is the hotel's 12 acres of outdoors space, including plush manicured lawns, elegant gardens, walking paths, and sitting areas. Outdoor seating on a stone terrace at the back of the property offers nice views of the grounds, which abut Kenmare Bay. The grounds also include a tennis court and are connected to an 18-hole golf course and croquet lawn. The Park Hotel also has a Reel Room, a 12-seat mini-movie theater that shows classic films nightly. Guests can also borrow movies from the property's library collection anytime.

A fine-dining restaurant, which looks like a private dining room at a Victorian estate, offers a changing, seasonal dinner menu that relies on local produce, while the Terrace offers more casual fare (burgers, fish and chips) to match its somewhat more casual setting. Guests tend to praise the breakfast, which includes standard continental fare like fruit, cereal, and various breads (scones are a favorite), along with cooked-to-order items -- a full Irish breakfast, along with omelets, fresh fish, and pancakes are also on the menu. There's an elegant Victorian lounge with a small but well-stocked corner bar (the hotel's cellar stocks more than 400 wines). Light dishes are available throughout the day for lunch or snacks, and there's an afternoon tea, though some guests find it overpriced. Room service is available 24 hours a day.

A dedicated concierge can book a host of local and regional activities, tours, and adventures. Housekeeping comes twice daily and turn-down service is available. For guests traveling with children, rooms can be baby-proofed on request, and kids receive free welcome gifts. Babysitting can be arranged, and cribs and playpens are available. Wi-Fi is free throughout the property.