Le Relais Montmartre

It's a fine line between homey and traditional, and stuffy and dated. The intimate, inviting Le Relais Montmartre is very firmly in the first bucket. The 26-room hotel, set in an 18th-century building on a cobblestoned side street in Montmartre, is pure charm through and through. Its pleasant and welcoming vibe is apparent from the moment guests enter the lobby, which features a fireplace and seating upholstered in mismatched florals and tweeds. The space looks less like a hotel lobby, and more like somewhere to curl up with a coffee and read a book. In fact, a Nespresso machine and built-in shelves with books on art and Paris serve just that purpose. Instead of a formal reception area, the check-in staff works off of an antique wooden desk by the windows. Guest rooms start on the snug side (as is normal in Paris), but what they lack in square footage they make up for in charm; each one is individually decorated with bright colors and antiques. Other common areas include the 18th-century stone cellar where breakfast is served, and a cheery back garden -- a peaceful place to enjoy a break from the funky bustle of Montmartre. All in all, Le Relais Montmartre is a romantic oasis to come home to after a day exploring the City of Light. The hotel appeals mostly to couples, but caters to families as well.

Le Relais Montmartre is off the cobblestoned Rue Lepic, where much of the magical "Amelie" was filmed. (The hotel is around the corner from Cafe des Deux Moulins, where the title character worked.) At the foot of Montmartre and near the historic Pigalle, the hotel's immediately area is surprisingly peaceful -- except during rush hour, when traffic can be an issue. It is about a 12-minute walk from Le Relais up to Sacre Coeur and the Place du Tertre, a cobblestoned square where artists congregate to draw, paint, and otherwise express themselves. The hotel is surrounded by restaurants and bars, and, of course, plenty of nightlife. The Blanche metro station (line 2) is a three-minute walk from the hotel. Budget a half-hour for the drive between the hotel and Charles de Gaulle Airport (or an hour and 15 minutes, if going by public transit).

Le Relais Montmartre's rooms are charmingly Parisian in just about every respect (including the small size; Classic rooms are 150 square feet). All are individually decorated with antiques and quaint fabrics, such as floral carpeting, fern-printed curtains, and paisley bedspreads. Walls and wood-beam ceilings are painted in complementary hues, from butter yellow and mossy green to different shades of lavender. Despite their period look, rooms are soundproofed, air-conditioned, and equipped with flat-screen TVs, USB ports, Bose speakers, and free Wi-Fi. There are minibars, free coffee and tea, safes, and bathrobes and slippers in every room.Beds are flanked by lamps and reading spotlights and windows open inward to views of the hotel courtyard or Rue Constance (past the wrought-iron window guards). Bathrooms are quite tiny, but come with magnifying mirrors, hairdryers (straighteners available on request), heated towel racks, and upscale Rituals bath products. Classic rooms have walk-in showers; Comfort and Superior rooms have tubs.  The hotel will provide bottle warmers, cots, and high chairs on request. Ironing equipment is available at reception.

Served in a vaulted stone cellar from the 18th century, Le Relais Montmartre's breakfast features gourmet products from local vendors. The buffet includes hot items, like scrambled eggs, ham, sausage, bacon, and porridge, as well as croissants, baguettes, German breads, and cheeses from a Rue Lepic cheesemonger. Mini jars of jams and honey, yogurt, fruit, and Nespresso coffee are available as well. Guests can eat in the cellar, which is cheerily decorated with sunshiney yellow tables and chairs, or out on the inner patio, a charming back garden with yellow metal tables and chairs, an antique fountain, and a palm tree. Breakfast costs a fee, but is free for children under the age of 12. From late morning until late at night, the hotel will provide room service via nearby restaurants.A printer-connected Mac desktop is stationed in the lobby for guest use, and there is free Wi-Fi throughout the hotel. Hotel staff will arrange cultural excursions, airport transfers, babysitting, and restaurant reservations. Laundry and dry cleaning services are available, with a 24-hour turnaround. Pets are welcome, though there are some restrictions.