Railay Garden View Resort

The 19-unit Railay Garden View Resort is set on jungle-covered high ground overlooking the Andaman Sea. A set of about 60 stairs veers off of Railay East's walking street, and rise sharply up to Railay Garden's reception and breakfast huts. From there, garden paths lead to the individual wooden bungalows built even farther uphill. Very little of the resort disrupts the lush, prehistoric-looking ecosystem that surrounds it. Grounds are full of giant butterflies; coconut and oil palms; and trees sprouting bananas, mangos, jackfruit, and papayas. The only sounds are birds whistling, monkeys rustling the treetops, and the constant thrumming of cicadas and frogs and long-tail motorboats down in the water. Every now and then, you might pick up the faint conversation of fellow guests or the echoing whoop of a drunken partier far below. There's virtually no activity or shared amenity on-site -- this is a place for quiet couples and solo travelers to read and relax on their porch and look for monkeys in the trees by the property's edge. 

Reachable only by boat, Railay is a rugged peninsula to the south of both Ao Nang Beach and Krabi town. Railay Garden View Resort is on the east side of the isthmus; its position high up on a hill provides picturesque views of the bay and the limestone rock formations. Once guests make their way down Railay Garden's dozens of stairs, it's only about a minute's walk to the commercial center of Railay East's walking street. Here, though you'd never know it from up at the resort, the beach walk is crowded with backpacker bars, cheap places to eat, and live music venues. The boat pier to Krabi town is a just a little farther (about four minutes from the resort), and guests heading to Ao Nang Beach can walk to Railay West (an eight-minute walk from the resort) and pick up long-tails there. Give yourself about 90 minutes to reach Krabi Airport from the resort; it will take a combination of ferry or long-tail boat, plus a taxi. 

There are 19 tall-standing stilted bungalows at Railay Garden, each one accessed by even more stairs. All units are similar in size and amenities; the primary differences are view (sea or garden) and bed configuration (double, triple, or twin). The treehouse-like units are made completely of real hardwood and bamboo, with stucco bathrooms and weathered tin roofs. There is no air-conditioning, but on our stay in the height of summer, we found the fans and sea breezes quite effective. In fact, it was somewhat of a relief to not have AC -- this is one of the few hotels where you can actually open your door while in the room and enjoy the fresh air.

In-room amenities are quite limited compared to most area hotels. For example, in addition to lacking AC, rooms don't have minibars/mini-fridges or coffee, tea, and kettles. Instead, guests can go to the restaurant area, where free tea and coffee are available all day. Two free bottles of water are provided, and a water tank by the front desk allows guests to refill their bottles on their way in or out. 

Beds are covered with mosquito nets (which aren't a stylistic flourish but truly necessary), and there are wood tables and vanities and triangular foldout Thai cushions on the floors. Stucco-floor bathrooms have in-laid pebbled flooring and walk-in showers. Beware: There's no hot water. Toiletries include shampoo, a bar of soap, cotton buds, and a packet of mosquito repellant lotion. Safes and Wi-Fi are free in the rooms. 

Most guests will find the private front porches to be the best part of the rooms. On each porch is a pair of wicker bamboo rattan chairs for taking in the views. All units have views of the surrounding greenery and edging jungle, and Sea View bungalows can clearly see the blue Andaman. Strung up are seashell mobiles and bamboo wind chimes, plus a clothes line for drying clothes and swimsuits. At night, be prepared to see a bat or two swooping by the porch light. Mosquitoes may also be a problem, but burning the repellant coils should help keep them at bay. Past guests have reported that the sound of the long-tail motors below kept them awake -- sensitive sleepers should bring ear plugs.

Housekeeping and new linens are provided automatically, but on request. 

Like most accommodations in Railay, Railay Garden offers all guests free continental breakfast. The food selection essentially consists of instant coffee, tea, toast, jam, and butter -- the breakfast here is more memorable for the striking view of the sea and cliffs from the open-air hut than it is for the tastiness and sustenance. Soft drinks and bottled water are available for purchase throughout the day and there is a water jug by reception for refilling bottles. Alcohol is not sold on the premises. 

At the front desk, guests can book van/boat and airport transfers, as well as excursions to nearby islands. Wi-Fi is free throughout Railay Garden.