Hotel Filù

Standards are high at the 2015-opened Filu. Wood-beamed ceilings and the odd antique hint at its its ninth-century origins, while gleaming marble floors, contemporary hanging lamps, and mustard-yellow armchairs are more modern. are accented by bold mustards and creams from retro leathers, and tub chairs are sophisticated under hanging black lamps. Reception isn't staffed 24 hours, but late arrivals can be accommodated. Wall-mounted lion busts add Venetian flair to glass-wrapped stairwells with incense, although the hotel has an elevator reaching most rooms. International guests are mostly here for leisure. They range from solo travelers, to sightseeing families and romancing couples, and the latter are well-catered to with a gorgeous canal-side location. Escaping noise in Venice is almost impossible, and a nearby night bar replaces morning market noise, but vendors only dock here twice each week.

The hotel's Northern Cannaregio district is calmer than tourist-swamped San Marco, but it's still happening. Local life here is great for street photography, which begins right outside, with gondolas gracing Venice's second largest Cannaregio canal. Ponte delle Guglie and its water taxi stop are a one-minute walk, and the bridge marks the beginning of restaurant- and shopping-packed Strada Nova Avenue. Kosher restaurants honor Cannaregio's former Jewish Ghetto status, and though nightlife is generally far, good bars at Fondamenta Misericordia are a nine-minute walk. Santa Lucia train station is seven minutes on foot, while Piazzale Roma is five minutes farther, and is the meeting point for busses and cruise liners. "Vaporetto" water taxis offer quicker alternatives to the 23-minutes walks to San Marco Square and Basilica; Rialto Bridge is a little closer. Venice Marco Polo Airport is 50 minutes by water taxi, and the Alilaguna Orange Line runs direct to Guglie, outside the hotel. Note that the hotel can be hard to find, but the next door pharmacy's green cross is a good reference point. 

Rooms here are a change from Venice's often classically styled decor. They range from tiny 130-square-foot (12-square-meter) Economies designed for one, to larger Superiors with king-size beds. Neutral tones dominate, from the wood beam ceilings and tile floors, to the white walls and suede accents. Some have striped throw pillows with pops of blue, and/or large photographs of water scenes or a snail outside. Wood-framed windows are pretty, as are canal vistas from most rooms, but alley views in some entry-level ones are unattractive. However, water-facing rooms can be noisy.Amenities include satellite flat-screen TVs, desks, phones, and mini-fridges with glass doors, plus kettles for tea- and coffee-making. Additionally, all have AC, safes in fitted wardrobes, and free Wi-Fi. Cubicle showers with blue LED lighting are a squeeze in already compact bathrooms. Toiletries, towels, and hairdryers are provided. Double Rooms with sofa beds can accommodate cribs. The elevator reaches most rooms, but best to make an enquiry if stairs are an issue.

Given that this is a bed-and-breakfast property, features are limited. The buffet breakfast -- included in most rates -- is a continental spread of salamis and cheeses, breads and pastries accompanied by jams, hard-boiled eggs, granolas, yogurts, and fruits. Tea, coffee, and juice are also served. Aside from breakfast, there's no restaurant on-site, although plenty are nearby, and machine-dispensed tea and coffee are free in the lobby. Reception securely stores luggage after check-out, which is on the early side (10.30 a.m. during our visit). Wi-Fi is free throughout.