Viceroy Santa Monica

You learn a lot about the Viceroy before you even get there. Whenever mentioned to locals, they inevitably say something along the lines of, "Oh, I've had cocktails at the bar there," or "I've heard movie stars hang out at the pool." The hotel is indeed well known for its see-and-be-seen lounge and pool scenes -- but some former guests have gone further, accusing the Viceroy of eschewing substance in favor of style.

We would disagree. There's no denying the Viceroy succeeds, at the least, with the basics. The service isn't quite up there with its luxury (but pricier) rivals down the street, but it's certainly friendly and efficient. The rooms are clean and spacious, and many boast views of the ocean. Speaking of the Pacific, it's a few hundred steps away, which, for many visitors, will be reason enough to stay here (though it's worth noting that most of the hotels in Santa Monica are within a block of the beach). The city's famous pier is also nearby, about half a mile down the beach, as is Third Street Promenade and its parade of shops, restaurants, and street performers.

The Viceroy is run by the Viceroy Hotel and Resorts, which also operates Viceroy L'Ermitage Beverly Hills, as well as about a dozen other properties around the world. Renowned interior designer (and former Playboy Playmate) Kelly Wearstler handled the decor; she incorporated several of her favorite motifs, notably animals: note the horse busts in front of the cabanas by the pool. The overall theme is Hollywood Regency meets Colonial Britain. The British motif manifests itself most conspicuously in the china hanging from walls throughout the hotel, and the restaurant was formerly named Whist, after the classic English card game.

The Viceroy's greatest drawback, if you can call it that, isn't anything about the hotel itself but rather the stiff competition nearby, some of it just down the street. Literally within blocks are other impressive properties, including the kid-friendly Loews Santa Monica Beach Hotel and the famous beachside twins, Shutters on the Beach and Casa del Mar. The Viceroy's service doesn't match up with those neighborhood luxury competitors -- at Shutters, for instance, the doormen wait by the entrance with towels and water bottles for guests returning from jogs on the beach, and at Casa del Mar, guests get free shoeshines and local limo transportation. But then, Viceroy is notably cheaper than those two.

The Viceroy sits on a busy four-lane road in Santa Monica, a beach town -- a beach city, really -- filled with shops, restaurants, and the eponymous pier (a 10-minute walk from the hotel), which is home to games, rides, and an iconic Ferris wheel. More shops, restaurants, and street performers can be found at the Third Street Promenade, which is half a mile away (it's probably easiest to just walk and not worry about parking). There are a few other attractions within walking distance -- namely the beach, which is a three-minute walk away -- but you'll probably want a car to get around town, and you'll definitely need one to explore the rest of L.A.

The Viceroy's 162 rooms are excellent and spacious -- 320 square feet for Viceroy Rooms, 470 for Grandes, and 640-plus for Suites. A thoroughly Hollywood Regency style is conveyed through mirror-paneled walls, black-and-gray-striped carpeting, and mini-chandeliers. The bathrooms are small, but immaculate and beautiful with heavily veined marble. All bathrooms have shower/tub combos and refillable Neil George body wash, shampoo, and conditioner.

About half the rooms are standard Viceroy Rooms. Guest can upgrade to an ocean view, but given the distance -- and the four-lane road -- between the hotel and the beach, it's not always worth it. Grande Rooms do guarantee 150 more square feet and a pull-out sleeper sofa. All rooms feature pillowtop beds with feather duvets and comforters, as well as well-stocked minibars, flat-screen HDTVs with DVD players, and air purifiers or filters. Fast and reliable Wi-Fi is included in the hotel's resort fee. Cribs (free) and rollaways (charged per night) are both available.

The Viceroy boasts the standard big-city collection of amenities, but the highlight, to be sure, is the pair of plunge pools in the hotel's backyard. When the sun is out, the area typically attracts the usual SoCal concoction of celebrity wannabes, celebrity-oglers, and (purportedly) actual celebrities. 

Additionally, there is a modern 24-hour fitness center with free weights and cardio machines with built-in TVs. Two of the gym walls are fully mirrored and another is floor-to-ceiling glass with views of the backyard shrubbery and pools. A "business center" consists of a lone computer and printer tucked behind an ATM, though there is also homey lobby-level library that charms with lemon-yellow everything: curtains, seating, lamps, shag carpeting -- even ceiling.

The hotel charges a daily fee valet parking (typical for a nice hotel in L.A.) and guests with hybrid cars receive a discounted rate for overnight parking. Pets are allowed with a nonrefundable deposit. Room service (24 hours) and on-request newspaper delivery are available, as are laundry, dry-cleaning, and pressing services. Bike rentals, Wi-Fi, gym and computer access, and morning coffee are all included in the hotel's nightly amenity fee.

The Viceroy's restaurant, Cast, serves locally sourced international fare for all three meals, plus weekend brunch. On a nice night, Cast's alfresco seating near the pool makes it a great place to take have a romantic date. Private dining for up to 48 guests is available. Cast Lounge is something of a destination. Besides guests, you'll find plenty of aspiring stars, and even those who have made it. On nice nights, service -- along with the scene -- extends all the way to the pool.