Phulay Bay, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve

Phulay Bay, A Ritz-Carlton Reserve is one of the top resorts in Krabi province. Located on a remote stretch of Krabi coast, it's the site of countless honeymoons, anniversaries, and proposals. Renowned Thai architect Lek Bunnag designed the hotel to make a dramatic impression from the moment someone enters its manned gate. Guests are greeted by a regal temple-like pavilion that seemingly floats on water and an indoor/outdoor reception area that presents a striking blend of Thai and North African design. Tall stucco walls washed in warm tan and deep purple enclose reflecting ponds and groves of sky-high palm trees. After checking in (when chilled towels and icy beverages steeped with butterfly pea are offered), guests are whisked away in golf carts, zipping through the tropical garden grounds over streams and hills towards their room pavilion or villa. If they were to look closely, they might notice the crew members at constant work throughout the lush property: trimming plants, moving rocks, washing windows, painting walls, sweeping the sidewalks, and cleaning the beach. The level of service and maintenance is outstanding, but its achieved with almost zero disruption. Gardeners, butlers, and staff work in near silence, not letting the sense of peace be broken for even a moment.

Phulay Bay draws visitors (many repeaters) from Asia, Europe, Australia, and North America. Most are couples -- many here for a landmark moment in their relationship and some even inspired to stay at the hotel after seeing it in "The Hangover Part II." (The hotel closed for two months in 2010, while the film shot its wedding scene on the property.) Even so, families with children are welcome, too, and even catered to, with a kids' club and activities. Be aware that the hotel specifically refers to itself as waterfront -- not beachfront -- since it has a rocky shore and not a sandy beach.

Phulay Bay is located in rural coastal Krabi, a 25-minute drive north of Ao Nang and a 30-minute drive west of Krabi Town. Tupkaek Beach is a two-minute drive/12-minute walk to the north. There visitors will find a string of other resorts, including the Amari Vogue and the Tubkaak Krabi Boutique Resort -- hotels that are upscale, but simply not on Phulay Bay's level. Other than that, there is really nothing else in the area besides a few homes, farms, and jungle. A gypsum quarry is located immediately to the south of the resort, and its commercial pier is visible from Phulay Bay's shore. Getting to any area attractions will require a rental car, taxi, or hotel van (which costs a fee, but does provide bottled water and cold lemongrass towels). Krabi Airport is about a 40-minute trip by car.

Phulay Bay's 54 pavilion rooms and villas may just be the best luxury accommodations in Krabi Province, outshining the offerings at other lavish resorts, like Dusit Thani Krabi Beach Resort, Nakamanda Resort & Spa, and Rayavadee Resort. All are strikingly elegant and generously sized (the smallest offers 1,162 square feet of indoor/outdoor space and the largest offers nearly 6,350). Decor is a contemporary and streamlined take on traditional Thai design; instead of showcasing teaks and bamboos, rooms are light, bright, and airy, with marble floors, floor-to-ceiling windows or skylights, and high white walls. Hand-painted screens and doors depict human figures in the classic Thai style and intricate wood latticework accent the windows and terraces. The quatrefoil design is often incorporated with interior windows and dramatic keyhole entryways.

Units come in seven categories. Reserve Pavilions and Ocean Pavilions are located in the garden areas behind the pool. Pavilions occupy two-story room buildings with stucco exteriors painted in the signature purple and tan. The first-floor, 1,926-square-foot Reserve Pavilions have extensive outdoor space (including front verandahs and backyards with outdoor stone soaking tubs), while second-story, 1,162-square-foot Ocean Pavilions have arched ceilings with skylights and balconies with sea views. 

The 4,467-square-foot Beach Villas face the sea and feature whirlpools on their balconies, as well as outdoor soaking tubs. The 3,788-square-foot Reserve Pool Villas also have indoor and outdoor baths, plus a large garden with a private pool. Most of the Reserve Pool Villas (12) face the hotel's gardens, but four Sea View upgrade options are available. There are five Royal Beach Villas, which are 6,329-square-foot mini-palaces with flower-shaped jetted infinity pools overlooking the Andaman Sea. And at the very top of the line, there is the one Royal Andaman Sea Villa, whose floor plan mirrors the Royal Beach Villa, but whose guests are treated to daily spa treatments and private island-hopping tours.

All rooms and villas have outstanding amenities. Every room has a California king bed, sofa or daybed, and chaise loungers on the verandah. Coffee and tea are free and minibars come with Evian, prosecco, Verve Clicquot, and white wine, plus free glass-bottle Singha soda water and free canned sodas. All rooms have flat-screen LCD TVs with satellite channels, individually controlled air-conditioning, and free Wi-Fi. Both room and butler service are available 24 hours a day.

Enormous his-and-her bathrooms have features like flower-shaped stone vessel sinks and floating mirrors. All have rainfall steam showers and a separate indoor stone soaking tub. A full set of toiletries (including toothbrushes and toothpaste, shower caps, cotton buds, and clover-shaped bars of soap) is provided, along with a hairdryer. Bathrooms connect to walk-in closets with terry robes, slippers, straw hats, and beach bags. All rooms but Ocean Pavilions have private gardens with outdoor stone bathtubs. In the gardens, items like mosquito coils, insect repellent, and sunscreen are provided.

Phulay Bay's features are as high quality and well thought out as its grounds and rooms. Its main pool is a huge, two-tier infinity pool facing the sea and the iconic limestone karsts. In one corner of the pool sits a swim-up pool bar and poolside restaurant, Phai Fah, that serves dishes like grilled prawns, club sandwiches, and wok-fried chicken with hot Thai basil. Poolside food and drink service is available to guests posting up on one of the cushioned loungers or Bali beds surrounding the pool. The pool overlooks a wide, carefully manicured lawn with kids' activities and a palm tree grove, with the gentle sea just beyond the grass. There is no real beach at this site, as the shore is rocky. The resort atones for this with its huge infinity pool, plus its free daily long-tail boats to Hong Island, where guests can actually lie on the sand and swim and snorkel in the lagoon. Phulay Bay also offers free kayaks for guests wanting to explore near the resort, as well as stand-up paddleboards and Hobie Cats for a fee. Yoga, Pilates, and stretching classes are conducted by the hotel's beach bar.

The spa at Phulay Bay is one of the most meticulously planned hotel spas in the region. While most hotels have poolside massage huts, Phulay Bay has fully enclosed, private treatment rooms, including two-person spa suites, which have verandahs with outdoor jetted tubs and Thai massage mats (as well as traditional massage beds inside). The spa uses beauty products by Bangkok-based Divana and European brands Espa and Kerstin Florian, and its service menu includes energy-balancing treatments, hydrating facials, and black magma body wraps. Men's and women's thermal suites each have an indoor relaxation lounge, a steam room, a glass-walled cedar sauna, and an outdoor vitality pool enclosed by thick shrubbery.

The fitness center is just as comprehensive as the spa. The large space features a boxing area, Technogym cardio machines, and several full sets of free weights. Towels, bottled water, and homemade coconut treats are provided and there are separate changing and showering facilities for women and men. The fitness center is located in a subterranean area underneath Sala Srichan, the hotel's welcome pavilion, so unfortunately views are just of stucco walls. The supervised kids' club oversees daily activities like Thai boxing, batik painting, shadow puppets, and cooking using ingredients collected from the on-site garden. There are also free-to-use kids' toys on the waterfront lawn. Babysitting is available for a fee. The hotel hosts rotating nightly activities for adults and children, like live music and movie nights.

A series of on-site boutiques sell everything from high-end crafts to coconut beauty products, formalwear and jewelry to beach cover-ups and straw hats. Laundry and dry cleaning are available. Wi-Fi is free throughout Phulay Bay.

Besides the pool bar and restaurant, there are three restaurants and one bar at Phulay Bay. Jampoon, the hotel's main restaurant, is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily. Breakfast is included in all room rates; it includes a buffet plus a la carte items. For lunch and dinner, Jampoon focuses on Mediterranean-inspired dishes, like beef carpaccio, grilled sea bass, and crispy suckling pig. Sri Trang is a dinner-only Thai restaurant serving family-style salads, noodles, and stir-fries. Special, multi-course private dining can be arranged in Sri Trang's romantic standalone pavilion by the water. On the north corner of the property by the sea is Lae Lay, Phulay Bay's seafood restaurant, where surrounding decorative infinity pools give the impression that the restaurant is floating. Seafood dishes have a slight Mediterranean bent, like snowfish and squid paella and grilled tiger prawns wrapped in cured pork cheek. Like Sri Trang, Lae Lay is only open for dinner. There is also an all-day bar/lounge by the water, called Chomtawan, serving cocktails and light meals. Chomtawan is especially popular at sunset. Many ingredients, hot and sweet basil, chili, galangal, and eggplant, come from the on-site herb and vegetable garden.