Seikoro Inn

From its lovely rustic structure to the emphasis on personalized service, the Seikoro Inn has all you’d expect from a ryokan experience. Upon entrance shoes are exchanged for slippers (and returned cleaned); "Ukata" (traditional Japanese room wear) are provided; and attentive -- some say invasive -- room attendants move freely in and out of guests’ rooms. The seventh generation of the founding family runs this 175-year-old inn, and the layers of history are apparent in the decor: cases hold painted porcelain dishes and Japanese antiques; traditional Japanese paintings and sepia family photos line the walls as well. Instead of a base from which to explore the city, the ryokan is (or wants to be) the experience itself: Guests who choose the breakfast and dinner package are attended during all courses by the room attendant. Those who opt to dine outside the inn will be accompanied to the street by the staff, who stand there until the guest is out of sight, and find the staff waiting up for them upon return. The hotel has a small area for taking tea but no restaurant, so spaces to stretch out beyond guest rooms are limited to the small inviting garden and the communal baths.

Outside downtown Kyoto, the Seikoro Inn is located on the Kamo River just off busy Gojo-dori in a quiet neighborhood with a few shops and restaurants. The Kiyomizu-gojo subway station, on the Keihan Line, is a three-minute walk from the hotel, and some major sights are in walking distance if you're up for a longer 18 to 21 minute hike.

• 18-minute walk to Higashi Honganji Temple
• 18-minute walk to Kawaramachi shopping district 
• 19-minute walk to Nishiki Market 
• 21-minute walk to Kiyomizu-dera temple
• 21-minute walk to Yasaka Shrine
• 13-minute public transit ride to Kyoto station
• 18-minute public transit ride to Kyoto International Manga Museum
• 25-minute public transit ride to Nijo Castle
• 27-minute public transit ride to Kyoto Imperial Palace
• 34-minute public transit ride to Ginkaku-ji (the Silver Pavilion) 
• 46-minute public transit ride to Kinkaku-ji (the Golden Pavilion)
• 50-minute public transit ride to Ryoan-ji Temple
• 78-minute drive to Kansai International Airport

The Seikoro Inn’s 22 rooms are spread across two buildings, one old and one new. Rooms are similar in both, with two significant differences: only rooms in the old building have views over the lovely garden, and most but not all have private bathrooms. With tatami mat flooring, light walls, wood ceilings, and minimal furniture, the rooms have a clean, uncluttered feel. Furnishings are traditional Japanese, including a low table and seating, and mat bedding that’s set up in the evening and promptly put away before breakfast -- no sleeping in here. Most rooms have some western-style seating. While rooms are pleasant enough, there aren't any truly luxurious details. Technology is present but subtle: Large flat-screen TVs are cleverly hidden under fabric covers, which helps preserve the traditional feel of the rooms, and Wi-Fi is free. You won’t find a mini-fridge or coffeemaker here, though. Half-curtains lead to the bathrooms, which are adequate but somewhat dated, some with dark tiles and unappealing sinks. A door conceals an open shower and a wonderful wood tub; another leads to the toilet vestibule with an electric toilet seat with bidet feature. All rooms come with hairdryers, hairbrushes, toothbrush sets, and Shiseido toiletries.

The most distinctive feature of the Seikoro Inn -- and the one that explains its very high prices -- is the dedicated service typical of a ryokan. A room attendant assigned to each room serves tea and the multi-course dinner (not included). This attendant also sets up guest beds -- a veritable “lights out” in the early evening -- breaks down beds in the early morning, and sets up the table for breakfast (also extra). Even those with private bathrooms might want to experience the "onsen" or traditional communal bath, where helpful signs instruct the inexperienced bather (no soap in the tub). Those envisioning a spa will be disappointed: The baths are traditional but not lavish, with stone floors, unappealing pink sink basins, and wooden walls that show the wear of more than a century. Though not included in the price, the "kaiseki"multi-course dinner served in-room is worthwhile (and long -- allow about two hours), as is the Japanese-option breakfast. The inn has air-conditioning, free parking, and free Wi-Fi throughout.