Hotel Parador de Cruz de Tejeda

With its unparalleled mountain views and relaxed, unassuming style, the 43-room Parador de Cruz de Tejeda was one of our favorites on a 2017 trip to Gran Canaria. At the time of its construction in the 1940s, this region of the mountains was so remote that roadways connecting the hotel with the rest of the island had to be created from scratch. Today, the historic site of Cruz de Tejeda -- essentially a stone cross which local mountain travelers would use as a vital orientation marker -- is only slightly less remote and slightly more developed (there’s just two restaurants and another hotel in the area). The journey to the hotel from the island’s main highway is a steady ascent through charming mountain villages,and past sheer vertical drops. 

It’s a special atmosphere that permeates the hotel as well: a mystical vibe that combines the traditional charm of a mountain estate with raw nature that’s millions of years old. Romantic nested white archways and dark carved wood decorate the long hall leading to the reception desk, while murals depict local religious figures. The hotel was built -- and is still managed by -- the state-owned Paradores group, whose ethos emphasizes development and support of the local community. Today the majority of its guests are couples, and those interested in hiking and remote getaways.

Parador de Cruz de Tejeda is tucked high up in the mountains, in the geographical center of the island marked by the tiny village of Cruz de Tejeda. It’s literally a bend in the mountain road that houses two restaurants, a bar, another hotel, and a local market -- the rest of the area is surrounded by a vast landscape of mountains and volcanic ravines. Needless to say, a car is required to reach the hotel and get around the area, although various hiking trails with spectacular scenery stem directly from this historic junction point. Tejeda is an 11-minute downhill drive, or an hour-long hike with breathtaking views via a trail directly behind the hotel. It was recently named as one of Spain’s most beautiful villages, and has a good handful of local restaurants, an artisan handicrafts shop, and a supermarket. Las Palmas is about a 50-minute drive, while the airport is a 55-minute drive away. Tamadaba Natural Park, popular with hikers, is 90 minutes away by car. 

Rooms at this upscale mountain property have a classic and romantic style, with traditional dark wood furniture, neutral soft furnishings, and modern abstract wall art. All those that we visited smelled gorgeously clean and fresh, and almost all (save two) have beautiful views of the volcanic ravines -- a major attraction of the hotel. Standard features include desks and seating areas, flat-screen TVs, AC, minibars, free safes, and free Wi-Fi. Some have beautiful four-poster beds, and most have balconies overlooking the ravines. Marble bathrooms are modern and have double sinks and shower/tub combos. There is one accessible room with a shower.

The majority of rooms are the basic Standard category, which lack the upscale amenities of higher-category rooms, but guests are welcome to request different pillow types and any forgotten amenities for free. Superior Rooms and the Junior Suite come with welcome chocolates, pillow menus, and bathrobes and slippers. The Junior Suite also has a huge rooftop terrace with beautiful ravine views, a separate shower, and jetted bathtub. Jetted tubs can also be found in the special attic rooms, and roughly half of the hotel’s rooms have a proper double bed as opposed to two twin beds (unfortunately quite common on the island).

The hotel’s unparalleled mountain views and intimate connection with nature are hands down what sets it apart from competitors. The volcanic caldera, a spectacular series of ravines and valleys formed from volcanic events 13 million years ago, is visible from nearly every part of the hotel -- including the large communal terrace (perfect for lounging), and the bar. The hotel also has excellent connections to some of the island’s most scenic hiking routes, some of which double as historic walking paths connecting Cruz de Tejeda to other parts of the island. 

There’s no communal pool, but access to the spa and its thermal hydrotherapy pool is free for guests staying longer than four days, or with half-board plans during low season. Rates are discounted for half-board guests during the high season. This pool was one of the most striking that we saw on Gran Canaria, sporting an outdoor section that extended straight into the surrounding pine forest with stunning mountain views, especially at sunset. The pool is heated by solar panels, and the spa offers special treatments -- including one involving volcanic rock.

The parador doesn’t offer an all-inclusive plan, but does have all variations of other meal plans, including bed-and-breakfast, half-board, and full-board -- quite useful for the remote area, which has admittedly limited dining options. The breakfast is buffet-style with plenty of hot and cold options, and the restaurant focuses on local cuisine using locally sourced, seasonal produce. There’s also a small gym and kid-friendly features, including kids’ toys available from reception and exclusive morning spa hours. Free on-site and public parking are plentiful, but the free Wi-Fi was quite poor in the bar area -- even for Gran Canaria.