Hotel Kabuki Rating: 3.0 Pearls

Japantown, San Francisco, California

The Japanese garden highlights the decor

Kabuki is a highly stylized Japanese costume drama, so it's a bit ironic that the San Francisco hotel sharing its name is so serene. Located in the heart of Japantown, the Hotel Kabuki offers an escape from the drama of high-traffic city areas. At the Kabuki, you won't hear the clanging of a cable car, the partying of the Castro, or the braying of the tourist hordes at the Wharf, but you will hear the "aaahhhhhs" as guests lower themselves into their deep, in-room soaking tubs. Visitors who plan ahead can also get their Zen on -- free of charge for hot and cold pools, and a large steam room and sauna -- at the nearby Kabuki Springs & Spa, which draws folks from all over the city. Or, they can simply meditate amongst the bonsai trees, pigeons, and koi in the hotel's Japanese garden.

Overall, the rooms are in need of an upgrade, but the bedding is new and details like the fusuma panels, rice paper shoji screens, and teakettles took my mind off the neglect. The bathroom layout is odd, but that's because of the deep soaking tub, so it's a fair trade-off. The staff oozes "Serenity Now!" But they don't take themselves too seriously as evidenced by longtime front desk clerk Daniel, who addresses guests and callers with a his signature over-the-top HELLO! It gives the front desk a little extra character and helps keep the Kabuki from being too precious.

Amenities are few, and the downturn in the tourist industry has led to a scaling back of perks, but the killer views, traditional Japanese decor, laid-back ambience, and warm solitary soaks are what the Hotel Kabuki has to offer. The Kabuki's Japanese baseball-inspired O Izakaya Lounge is a favorite of local foodies who come for the creative shared plates (an izakaya is basically Japanese tapas), sake flights and shochu cocktails. It's not the the most happening spot in town, but it's one of the more intriguing.

The same can be said for Japantown, which offers quiet nights at a reasonable price in a small authentic neighborhood. The Kabuki cost me less than $150 a night, a great deal considering it's only a mile from Union Square and under 2.5 miles from the Fell Street entrance to Golden Gate Park. The hotel, and Japantown itself, offers visitors a unique San Francisco experience for less yen. Maybe that's why the Kabuki seems so Zen, and so lacking in drama.

There is a Buddhist saying, "do not speak, unless it improves on silence," which is the vibe at the Kabuki. Everyone was gracious and attentive, but for the most part, the staff takes a low-key approach. The Hotel Kabuki is steeped in serenity, so the staff's presence is understated. It's not the kind of place where joke-telling bell captains take charge (try the Serrano Hotel in Union Square for that), but it isn't unfriendly either.

However, the Kabuki isn't staffed to the gills, and the recession has put a hold on turndowns and dinnertime room service. There's also no on-site concierge, but the parking attendant, Michael, set up an airport shuttle, no problem. He even called right back when I was convinced the shuttle dispatcher said the wrong time over the speaker phone. I was wrong, but Michael didn't roll his eyes or gloat. Much appreciated.

• Valet is $35 a night. There's a $16 maximum in the adjoining garage, but it's $50 to have them open up during the off-hours (meaning before 6:30 a.m. on weekends).

View on a Larger Map

Following the 1906 earthquake, a sizeable Japanese community grew out of the rubble at the southern end of Pacific Heights, but the internment during World War II devastated the area. It never regrew to its prewar size, but Japantown has steadfastly held onto its core, a roughly six-block area with designer Yoshiro Taniguchi's five-tier, 100-foot Peace Pagoda as its centerpiece. The commercial district of Japantown is made up of the three buildings housing the Japan Center. Connected to the Kabuki through a shared entryway, it's a mall without chain stores that has plenty of inexpensive restaurants, a Kinokuniya Bookstore, and shops with Japanese items like antiques, bonsai trees, toys, and cat-themed knickknacks. Other than a few lackluster bars, there isn't a lot whole lot to do in the neighborhood after 8 p.m.

For more interesting nightlife options, the Fillmore District is a short walk. A historically African-American neighborhood, the area has seen hard times and is still rough around the edges, but it's been revitalized in the last few years. The Fillmore is now home to a number of shops, eateries and music venues, most notably upscale jazz club/Japanese restaurant Yoshi's. Producer Bill Graham's legendary Fillmore Auditorium, the place back in the psychedelic rock days, remains an intimate spot with shows almost every night.

• Housed down the block in the Japan Center, the Sundance Kabuki screens the best in indie film while offering online reserved seating, balcony cocktails during the movies, live music, and numerous selections from the San Francisco International Film Festival.
• Closer to the Golden Gate Bridge, the Presidio, Haight-Ashbury, and Golden Gate Park than downtown hotels
• Anime fans looking to stay in Japantown might prefer the Best Western Tomo with decor/design by renowned pop artist Heisuke "PCP" Kitazawa.
• 14 miles from the airport, 35-minute ride, roughly $30

The Deluxe King View Room

Until 2007, the Hotel Kabuki was the Radisson Miyako. The new owners, the San-Francisco-based boutique hotel company Joie de Vivre have made a lot of improvements, but further renovations are in order. New 26-inch LCD televisions, Serta Concierge bedding, and accent vinyl on the wall behind the bed, come together with the traditional touches like the lacquered fusuma panels, rice paper shoji screens, and teakettles for a comfortable night's stay with Nipponese highlights. The coolest features are the Japanese soaking tubs. They're 3.5-feet deep and come with eucalyptus bath salts. (For a decadent cleansing, hire the $50 bath butler to fill the tub, or get the $150 package with champagne, flowers and a souvenir of your soak.)

On the downside, the 200-square-foot Deluxe View King Room I stayed in had [[spots on the walls,] torn wallpaper and a stained lampshade.

• 15 of the rooms don't have the fususmas and shoji screens, only draperies -- so if you're looking for a distinctive Japanese experience, be sure to ask.
• The shared balcony with little room to maneuver has seen better days. The walls are dirty and the Astroturf is weathered, but the views on a clear San Francisco day are spectacular.
• The toilet is set apart in cramped quarters without a fan.
• The sink area would be tight for two people getting ready at the same time.
• The soaking tub is plenty relaxing, but there was no shower door and water does tend to spray.
• My iPod dock didn't work.
• Free Wi-Fi signal was plenty strong.
• Japanese teakettle, nice touch; Lipton Green Tea, not so much.
• Odd plastic coffeepot heated via a scary-looking metal coil.
• Minimal storage space
• Kabuki Club King room comes with a whirlpool bath and complimentary continental breakfast.
• 440-square-foot Executive Suites come with in-room saunas.

The fitness center

The Kabuki offers two ways for guests to find their inner Zen: hanging out at the bonsai garden and koi pond -- although there's nowhere to sit -- or taking a soothing bath at the Kabuki Springs & Spa around the corner. The Kabuki Springs is a clean tranquil spot with a large steam room, sauna, hot and cold pools, and a gong of silence to bang when squawky folk are ruining the meditative bliss. It's men-only and women-only on alternative days; Tuesday is clothing-mandatory coed day.

• Hotel Kabuki has cut out a lot of perks due to the recession, including nightly sake and wine tasting, welcome tea service, Saturday origami and bonsai classes with a local historian, and turndown service.
• The gym is an afterthought: three cardio machines, a Maxicam all-in-one weight training strength machine, a small rack of dumbbells, and a dirty old mat.
• The run-of-the-mill business center has two laptops and a printer.

The Hotel Kabuki has a 480-square-foot, two-room Family Suite with a king and two futons surrounded by tatami mats. Other than that, however, the hotel doesn't offer anything special for families.

• Cribs are usually free, rollaways $15.
• If your kids are into manga, anime or Hello Kitty, the hotel has direct access to the Japan Center.

O Izakaya

An izakaya is the Japanese equivalent of tapas and the Hotel Kabuki's version comes recommended by the San Francisco Chronicle and the neighborhood residents who come in for the fancy cocktails and extensive sake list. O Izakaya's decor is built around a Japanese baseball theme with cards adorned in the walls and on large window screens, and seven flat-screens playing games from the "land of the rising sun." O Izakaya also serves a decent breakfast buffet daily, so guests can take a look at the unique space dedicated to "Pro Yaku."

• O Izakaya is closed for dinner Mondays and Tuesdays.
• The buffet is $14 for a continental, $18 for an American
• There is a Japanese breakfast menu (fish, eggs and seaweed salad) available.
• Room service is available only for breakfast and dinner Wednesdays to Sundays.
• Plenty of good reasonably priced restaurants in the mall; the "Yoshuku" at On The Bridge is worth a trip.

My room had wallpaper tears, lampshade stains and spots on the walls. The balcony, in particular, is grungy and the Astroturf needs to be resodded. The bathroom air filter, and the oddly placed opening to the pipes, were both in major need of a dusting. Most guests probably wouldn't open the small door, but it didn't shut all the way and curious minds want to know. On the upside, the white tiles surrounding the soaking tub were spotless.

There are no weight restrictions. All rooms, minus the Japanese Suite (it features a sand garden), are available, and guests can bring two pets.