Renaissance Stanford Court Hotel Rating: 4.0 Pearls

Nob Hill, San Francisco, California

Average-size deluxe room feels cramped.

The Renaissance Stanford Court began its long life on the crest of posh, historic Nob Hill as the primary residence of 19th-century railroad baron and former California governor Leland Stanford. Its pedigreed history, however, doesn't translate to much in the way of lodging in the present.

Over the past year and a half, the hotel has undergone a $35-million renovation that's all but eradicated its history, yet hasn't left much of a lasting impression. With the exception of the sparkling marble lobby, a chandeliered grand staircase leading downstairs to the meeting rooms and ballrooms, and a big, bright gym with new equipment, it's unclear exactly where all this money went. The hotel is already showing remarkable signs of superficial wear and tear, and details like the slow elevator and strangely industrial bathroom fixtures clearly haven't had the benefit of an upgrade. The legendary Fournou's Ovens, where chef James Beard trained a generation of chefs, including Alice Waters and Paul Prudhomme, was closed as a restaurant last year (it's still used as a banquet space) and replaced by the decent but unremarkable Aurea).

Standard rooms are average to large for San Francisco, ranging from 245 to 360 square feet, but oversize furniture can make the space seem smaller than it is. My deluxe queen room would've felt a lot less cramped if it hadn't been crammed with the huge, granite-topped credenza that was conspicuously missing a minibar. (New, state-of-the-art Smart Bars had yet to be installed at press time.) While one of the hotel's major selling points is its arresting city views, the view in my interior-facing room was of an alley and a drab cement-and-brick building. More scuffs and smudges than one would expect from a newly renovated room were plainly apparent, and rust and discoloration marred the marble in the bathroom's shower. I found a lone Cocoa Puff (I hope it was a Cocoa Puff) on the floor. Windows were filthy, making the already rather dark room even darker. At roughly $30 more per night than the standard, a deluxe view room ensures a window with a more scenic expanse, but let's hope it's cleaner.

Though billed as a luxury hotel, the Reanissance Stanford Court has services, amenities, and room features that are squarely midgrade. And it can get rowdy here on weekends -- I shared an elevator with a gaggle of post-collegiate revelers returning from a club, one of whom was noticeably missing her shoes. For the neighborhood, the Stanford Court is much more affordable than the nearby Huntington and Fairmont, of course, but the latter two truly shine as historic, luxury properties. You can get a good rate for Nob Hill here, but if you're willing to go a bit farther afield, there are better options.

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The Renaissance Stanford Court sits at the crest of posh, historic Nob Hill, a wealthy residential neighborhood jokingly -- only, half-jokingly -- referred to by locals as "Snob Hill." It sits two blocks from Chinatown's main artery of Grant Street and is catty-corner from those famed robber baron mansions-turned-hotels, the Fairmont and the Huntington. With the exception of seafood institution Swan Oyster Depot about a mile away on Grant Street, restaurants and bars are few -- trek north to Russian Hill or downhill towards Market Street for more options.

• Fisherman's Wharf and ferries to Alcatraz are down the hill, about a mile away (take the cable car back up!).
• The famous curvy block of Lombard Street is less than half a mile away.
• Two blocks from the largest Chinatown outside of Asia, offering cultural institutions, herbal shops, and restaurants
• Three blocks (mercifully downhill) to Union Square, known for its high-end shopping
• Five blocks from Powell Street BART, the electric mass transit system that serves the Bay area
• Far from top tourist attractions like the Golden Gate Bridge, Golden Gate Park, the Presidio, and Haight-Ashbury -- $10 to $20 by cab -- but then so are the other neighborhoods with luxury hotels
• California Street cable car passes directly in front of the hotel.
• Safe neighborhood (though vagrancy and panhandling are common throughout San Francisco)
• $40, 30-minute taxi from San Francisco International Airport (SFO)