W San Francisco Rating: 4.0 Pearls

SoMa, San Francisco, California

Guests congregate in front of the fireplace

Starwood's W franchise has staked its name on bringing a hyper-sleek and at times painfully hip boutique approach to the masses. In the 10 years since this 404-room San Francisco outpost opened its doors in the arts district of SoMa, the property has shaken off some of its clubby, too-cool pedigree and consciously appropriated a more locally informed, Californian spirit. The design aesthetic pays homage to the Bay Area's large Asian population -- the conceit is actually called Gateway to the East -- and is visible in an array of small touches, from the exotic potted orchids adorning the front desk and hallways to the elevators decked out in holographic images of blossoming cherry trees to the room placards designed to look like fortune cookie messages (each with a different inspirational message printed on one side).

Of course, vestiges of the self-consciously trendy vibe are still very much in evidence, from the subtle, seasonal fragrances that infuse the lobby and elevators to the well-curated indie-pop tunes that pump throughout the public spaces. The three-story octagonal "Living Room," known in non-W-speak as "extension of the lobby," is outfitted with white sculpted walls and a lighting motif that changes throughout the day. Guests young and old congregate in front of the working fireplace, chatting on cell phones, typing furiously on laptops (presumably availing themselves of the free Wi-Fi) with espresso balanced on one knee, or embroiled in games of Chinese checkers. A sole Pac-Man console doubles as a table/work surface. Wednesdays through Sundays, a DJ spins tunes in the "Living Room," and the small, dimly lit 2nd floor XYZ Bar draws a steady stream of weekend warriors for its haute cocktails and DJ sets.

Rooms continue in the same playful, design-conscious vein but don't sacrifice comfort or quality for style. The signature W beds -- accompanied by an optional and extensive pillow menu -- are excellent, and bathrooms are big, bright and stocked with toiletries from the well-regarded Bliss Spa on the hotel's 4th floor. A variety of upscale and modern touches include a huge, bright work desk, 32-inch plasma TV, extensive DVD lending library, exhaustive minibar and iPod dock.

Amenities abound, but they're not always all they're cracked up to be. The 24-hour gym is small and some equipment is broken; it's hard to book appointments at the Bliss Spa; and the pool is nothing special. Sometimes the hotel's attempts at sleek and modern wind up being just plain frustrating: The elevator is outfitted with a feature meant to insure a certain level of security -- guests can't access the upper floors without sliding their room keys. I consistently found myself riding up to the 28th floor (I was on the 7th floor) by the time the slot actually scanned my card.

If it's boutique character you're after, there are plenty of other options available at every price point, from the budget-friendly GOOD Hotel to the pricier Clift or Hotel Triton in the nearby Union Square area. Don't expect the royal treatment: The W's "Whatever, Whenever" concierge program implies a fairly laid-back service ethos, meaning your needs are met but not anticipated.

I'd read complaints that some W hotels -- and this one in particular -- were more concerned with presenting their well-crafted image than delivering the top-notch service one might expect from a luxury hotel in this price range. So I was anticipating a fairly lax approach to service. I was pleasantly surprised to find this to be, by and large, an overstatement. When I called for help figuring out how to work my wonky iPod dock, someone arrived in under five minutes to solve the problem. My request for a toothbrush at 2 a.m. was met in similarly short order.

On the other hand, W's much-ballyhooed "Whatever, Whenever" concierge service doesn't always deliver. You nearly always need to ask explicitly for the "whatever" -- the staff doesn't aspire to go the extra mile or anticipate a guest's desires. And even when you do ask, you don't always get. Example: I tried to take advantage of the "BIP," or "Bliss Important Person," priority booking at the on-site (though independently managed and operated) Bliss Spa. I stopped by to make an appointment, but was denied. And when I called the "Whatever, Whenever," they merely connected me to the spa's phone line and the same inflexible reservationist. (I guess I'm important, but not Bliss Important.)

• 24-hour hour room service
• Personal trainers and fitness classes offered for a fee; Puma Biomega bike rental available free of charge
• Comprehensive P.A.W. (or Pets Are Welcome) concierge service for critters under 50 pounds costs $25 per day, plus a one-time $100 fee to cover the cost of cleaning the room post-checkout; includes dog-walking and grooming, pet beds, toys and treats
• Valet parking $45 per night (50 percent discount extended for hybrid vehicles)
• Dry cleaning available

View on a Larger Map

Smack dab in the middle of the SoMa arts district, the W is a culture vulture's dream. It shares a block with the SFMoMA and is a five-minute walk from the Museum of the African Diaspora and the Contemporary Jewish Museum. It's across the street from the Yerba Buena Performing Arts Center and Gardens and catty-corner from Moscone Convention Center.

The neighboring blocks were until recently derelict buildings but, despite the economic downturn, have seen a profusion of new high-rises condos and corporate offices within a four-block radius. They're now (somewhat sparsely) populated with tourists, students from the nearby Academy of Arts University, and area desk jockeys during the day -- but on weeknights it's a ghost town. Thirsty revelers willing to hoof it a bit will find a suitable array of nightlife options -- including the rock bar New Wave City and gallery-cum-club 111 Minna.

• Two blocks from main thoroughfare of Market Street
• Adjacent to Moscone Convention Center
• Next to SFMoMa
• Across the street from Yerba Buena Gardens and Performing Arts Center
• Short walk to Contemporary Jewish Museum and Museum of the African Diaspora
• No cable cars run through SoMa; to catch the closest stop -- the Powell line -- requires a 10 minute walk down Market Street
• Two miles to Fisherman's Wharf
• One mile to AT&T Park
• Four miles to Golden Gate Park
• Half-mile to Union Square
• Cab ride to SFO airport is approximately 40 minutes and around $40

The Wonderful Room

Airy, light-filled, and featuring brand-new, state-of-the-art technologies, the 300-square-foot standard "Wonderful Room" is roomy enough, with two queen beds, a generous backlit work station, a cushy electric blue day bed, and (in some cases) views of the SoMa district and Bay Bridge. The furniture is all light blonde wood and white leather with snatches of color, contributing to the bright, cheery vibe. "Eastern" decorative embellishments like cloud-shaped mirror decals, a Buddha night-light and China Girl coin holder provide visual stimulation.

• Signature W beds are firm but comfy and boast fluffy goose-down comforters and an exhaustive array of pillow options via the trademark Pillow Menu. They claim to have 350-thread-count sheets; unfortunately, they felt pretty rough on the skin and appeared to have ink stains on them.
• Zenith DVD player
• 32-inch HD plasma TV
• Comprehensive minibar includes treats for children or anyone planning to attend a rave (huge multicolored lollipop, "intimacy kit," vitamin pack)
• Thoughtful touches like a David Rockwell photography book and bottled water
• DVD lending library available through "Whatever, Whenever" concierge service
• Bliss toiletries in bathroom
• iPod dock
• Wi-Fi is $14.95 a day (it's free in the lobby and 2nd floor "Living Room").

5,000 square foot Bliss Spa on premises

The generally impressive range of amenities has a couple of flaws. The 24-hour gym, rather unappetizingly dubbed SWEAT, is small; and two of the three elliptical machines I tried had some sort of malfunction (one had a loose, squeaky foot pedal; another had fuzzy reception on the embedded TV). Three young locals who were availing themselves of the hot tub when I went to scope out the small heated indoor lap pool informed me that the W was the easiest pool in the city to break into illegally -- they simply access it via the street entrance and if anyone asks, they say they forgot their key in their room. In other words, security in the pool area is lax and there's no attendant.

The 5,000-square-foot Bliss Spa on the 4th floor has garnered awards for being the best day spa in San Francisco. It's uniformly hip and, true to the brand, tends more towards youthful quirk than traditional upscale luxury. Guest rooms all come with the Bliss Spa menu, but it's wise to plan ahead and book a treatment in advance, as the hotel's BIP service doesn't guarantee you'll nab an appointment.

• Free Puma Biomega bike rentals
• 24-hour room service
• 5,000 square foot Bliss Spa on the premises
• Small, clean lap pool and hot tub
• 24-hour gym is free for hotel guests; yoga and Pilates classes and personal trainers are available for varying fees.
• Pillow menu offers choice of body pillow, neckroll, firm foam PrimaLoft or 100 percent down feather pillows.
• P.A.W. pet concierge
• DVD library available through "Whatever, Whenever" concierge
• Free use of an Acura MDX within city limits (but it's a temporary feature)

The Chinese-doll coin holders might appeal to children

In the words of the hotel's management, the W is "not a family-focused hotel," and indeed, with the exception of free crib rental, there are very few amenities that cater to families traveling wtih kids. The indoor pool is small and during my stay seemed to attract a decidedly adult, party-happy crowd. However, as the original clientele of the W brand has aged and started breeding, the hotel has seen an uptick in guests traveling with young'uns. Though there are no special allowances for families to speak of, the funky design flourishes unique to the San Francisco property -- from the lobby's vintage Pac-Man gaming table and Chinese checkers setups to the rooms' color-shifting Buddha night-lights, Chinese-doll coin holders and cloud-shaped mirror wall decals -- will likely appeal to children.

• Crib rental is free.
• Rollaway beds cost $30, but can't be rented for rooms with two beds due to fire codes.

Casual atmosphere at W Cafe

The handsome, banquette-filled XYZ restaurant closed in April 2011 to make way for a new restaurant, Trace, an upscale eatery influenced by the sustainability movement and focused on bringing locally sourced food to the table. In fact, all dining at the W has made sizeable efforts to be sustainable. All menus are created based on seasonal availability; the W Café's award-winning wine list features over 200 organic or biodynamic wines; and all coffee served is organic.

• Room service is available -- and generally very tasty -- 24 hours a day.
• A nearby and worthwhile dining option is Anchor & Hope, an upmarket fish shack two blocks due east.
• Less persnickety eaters, or those trying to adhere to a budget, might try Chevy's Fresh Mex, which is right across the street.

A few notable issues sullied the otherwise clean and recently renovated rooms. Fingerprints on the wooden headboard indicated that whoever roomed there before me (or possibly before that person -- who knows?) had a very good time, something I generally don't enjoy contemplating in a hotel room. The carpet was spotless. But one of the two queen beds was just slightly mussed. There was noticeable schmutz crusted on the glass in the bathroom and a few small ink or makeup stains on the sheets.