Hotel Monaco Washington D.C. Rating: 4.0 Pearls

Penn Quarter, Washington, D.C., United States

The lobby

There are seven Kimpton-brand hotels in the District, but the Monaco is the only one in a National Historic Landmark building. The Greek Revival General Post Office, designed by Washington Monument architect Robert Mills and finished in 1839, was reborn as this 183-room hotel in 2002. The four-floor lodging takes up an entire city block on the eastern edge of the Penn Quarter neighborhood.

Bold colors and patterns mark the decor in both the rooms and the public spaces -- particularly the lobby; there's more flash here than at the Grand Hyatt Washington or the Renaissance Washington, D.C. The hotel's popular restaurant also has striking design, with a large open kitchen, high ceilings, a huge bar, and a garden terrace set in the building's courtyard. Even hallways are grand in scale, with pendant light fixtures and contemporary art on the walls. But because the building wasn't originally designed as a hotel, rooms -- and particularly bathrooms, added during the conversion from post office to hotel -- feel cramped despite the high ceilings and large windows.

While service on my visit wasn't as polished as you'll find at other D.C.-area Kimptons like the Hotel Palomar or Hotel Madera, it was adequate -- and suit-sporting guests seemed more interested in the free morning coffee service than what dinner or theater reservations the concierge could arrange. Adding to the business flavor are the bustling meeting rooms, two of which can accommodate hundreds of guests; a function during my stay kept the hotel busy, but not overwhelmingly so.

The front desk

While service was generally quick, it wasn't as polished as you'd find at other Kimpton Hotels, like the Palomar and Hotel Madera; in fact, it was disappointing for the price. An example: A few days before my stay, I called the concierge to request one of the hotel's advertised "companion goldfish"; it wasn't mentioned upon check-in. After settling in my room, I called the concierge to make my request again, and a fishbowl arrived 15 minutes later.

• Front desk staff was efficient, but I had to ask for a rundown of the hotel's amenities.
• A valet said hello, but didn't offer help to haul bags upstairs.
• A concierge is on duty 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. and can help with directions, reservations, and suggestions for kid-friendly dining and activities.
• There were no bellmen visible on arrival or after checking in; a porter did offer to store my luggage the next morning, however.
• The hotel restaurant has limited hours, closing between breakfast, lunch, and dinner. The only food available when the kitchen is closed is from a short bar menu.
• Room service is available 24 hours a day, though selections are limited after 10 p.m.
• Free wine hour in the lobby nightly, 5 to 6 p.m.
• Free morning coffee service 6 to 10 a.m.
• Free newspapers in the lobby daily.
• Valet parking is $34 a day with in-out privileges.

View on a Larger Map

Located in the compact section of the city called Penn Quarter, a safe, convenient option for both business and leisure travelers -- full of restaurants and shops (well-known franchises, mostly), but still close to the major sights and monuments. The once-seedy section of town has, in recent decades, been revamped by urban renewal projects -- the most recognizable of which is the Verizon Center sports arena, kitty-corner to the hotel. Other nearby attractions include the International Spy Museum, FBI headquarters at the J. Edgar Hoover Building, Ford's Theatre, the National Archives, the National Portrait Gallery, and the National Theatre. Skirting the neighborhood are Chinatown and the Walter E. Washington Convention Center; just south lies the National Mall and all its attractions, including numerous museums and memorials.

• Three Metro lines (D.C.'s subway) within one block; two more within six blocks
• One-mile, or six-minute, drive to Union Station, D.C.'s main train station serviced by Amtrak, commuter rail lines, and the Metro
• $50, 60-minute cab ride to Dulles International Airport
• $15 to $20, 10-minute cab ride to Reagan National Airport, which is also served by the Yellow and Blue Metro lines
• Two-mile, five-minute drive from the Lincoln Memorial, Vietnam memorial, WW II memorial, and other sites on the western end of the National Mall
• 10-minute, five-block walk from the National Gallery of Art, National Air and Space Museum, U.S. Botanic Garden, and the eastern end of the Mall.
• A walkable one mile from both the U.S. Capitol and the White House

Queen Deluxe room

The hotel's guest rooms are carved out of the bones of the landmarked 1839 General Post Office building, which means soaring ceilings, large windows, and, unfortunately, aftermarket bathrooms that look out of place. While my room itself had enough light, the bathroom was on the dark side, and an awkward nook was wasted space. My 325-square-foot Queen Deluxe Room felt smaller than its measurements make it sound.

• A comfortable Sealy Posturepedic Dynasty Plush mattress, custom made for Kimpton, with 300-thread-count Frette linens, four down pillows, and an accent pillow
• 32-inch, flat-panel LG TVs with 32 channels, including pay-per-view movies
• Panasonic five-disc CD player with radio; Sony Dream Machine alarm clock radio; no iPod dock
• Well-stocked minibar with soft drinks, beer, wine, liquor, snacks, and toiletries
• Work desk with corded phone, useful surge-suppressing power strip and Wi-Fi, which is free for members of Kimpton's free-to-join InTouch loyalty program; Wi-Fi is $10 a day otherwise
• Laptop-size safe
• Bathrooms have standup showers, hair dryers, and Aveda toiletries.
• Though my room overlooked relatively busy F Street, it was very quiet.

The fitness center

The Monaco offers many of the amenities you'd expect at this price, and, save the modest business center, they're of high quality. The hotel's free evening wine service, a standard feature of Kimpton-brand properties, is, unsurprisingly, very popular with guests.

• Free, 24-hour modern fitness center has cardio equipment (a bike, a recumbent bike, a stair-stepper, two treadmills, three ellipticals), many with private TV screens, along with weight machines, free weights, yoga mats, and stability balls. Headsets are provided.
• 24-hour business center has two computers, a Lexmark laser printer, and a paper shredder.
• In-room spa services, including massages and body wraps, can be arranged.
• Two meeting rooms accommodate hundreds of guests; a third, smaller, meeting space is also available.
• A popular on-site restaurant and bar, Poste
• Free nightly wine reception and free morning coffee service in the lobby
• Pets of any size are welcome with no fee; food and water dishes are left out in the lobby.

Hotel Monaco is a fine hotel for families, but with average-size standard rooms, multiple meeting rooms, and lots of business guests, it's not particularly geared to kids. The Embassy Suites Hotel Convention Center, also in the neighborhood, might be a better choice for its pool, free breakfast, free evening snacks, and on-demand video games in rooms. That said, the Monaco's Double Double Deluxe Rooms have enough room for four, and Mediterranean Suites have sleeper sofas.

• Free cribs; rollaway beds cost $20 a night
• Poste restaurant has booster seats, high chairs, and a kids' menu with choices like mini burgers, pasta, and salads.
• Outlet covers, toilet latches, and night lights are available on request.
• Kid-size animal print robes on request
• Babysitting can be arranged; pediatrician is on 24-hour call.
• 24-hour room service

Poste

Poste Modern Brasserie serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and has won accolades from the D.C. media for its locally sourced, market-driven menu. (It even harvests some ingredients like herbs and produce from the hotel's courtyard garden.) But visitors with hectic schedules may find it hard to get a proper meal: The restaurant doesn't open until 7 a.m., is closed for a few hours every afternoon, and stops serving dinner at 10 p.m. most evenings. Luckily, there's a limited bar menu after 11:30 a.m.

• Breakfast served 7 a.m. to 10 a.m. on weekdays; breakfast starts at 8 a.m. on weekends
• Lunch served Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. The three-course "Poste Power Lunch" is $20.09.
• Brunch available on weekends, 8 a.m. to 2 p.m.
• Dinner starts at 5 p.m. every day and ends at 9 p.m. on Sunday, 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, and 10:30 on Friday and Saturday. A six-course tasting menu is $75; a la carte entrees average $28.
• Kids' menu with choices like mini burgers, pastas, and salads
• Room service available 24 hours, with limited selections after 10 p.m.

My room and bathroom were just as clean as the spotless public spaces.