Fukuzumiro Ryokan

Dating back to 1890, this historic ryokan (a traditional Japanese inn) occupies a three-story wooden building and has drawn many notable Japanese writers, artists, and actors through the years. Simple but charming wooden interiors are full of old soul, and hallways are lined with paned windows that overlook a koi pond and delightful garden outside. The minimalist aesthetic puts emphasis on the beautiful natural scenery outside, and though the inn's age is visible and it looks a bit worn around the edges, it's all part of the charm here. 

Upon entering, guests must remove their shoes, which are placed in wooden cubbies by the entrance, and don a supplied pair of slippers (which must be removed before stepping into guest rooms). Guests also receive traditional yukatas, or light kimonos, to wear around the ryokan. The atmosphere is tranquil and relaxing, and it's no surprise that many writers and artists chose to stay here. The inn attracts lots of international guests keen on sampling a ryokan experience, as well as weekenders seeking a peaceful escape. Note that English and Japanese are spoken at the hotel. 

The hotel is scenically situated by the Haya River in the mountain town of Hakone. The area is famous for its hot springs and is a popular escape from city life, offering beautiful mountain scenery and hiking opportunities. The hotel is about a five-minute walk uphill to the Tonosawa train station and a 19-minute walk (or five-minute bus ride) to the Hakone Yumoto Station. The nearest bus stop is a two-minute walk away. There are a couple of dining options, like a noodle shop, nearby, plus several more restaurants, grocery stores, and shops within a 10-minute walk along the river. The Hakone Shrine is about a half-hour drive or 45-minute bus ride, and sits near Lake Ashi, which offers lovely views of Mount Fuji. Another area attraction is the Hakone Open-Air Museum, which can be reached in about 20 minutes by car or or 30 minutes via public transportation. Tokyo is about a one-and-a-half to two-hour drive from here, or about two- to two-and-a-half hours by train.

The hotel has 17 traditional guest rooms, all with tatami mat floors, sliding doors, and a minimalist aesthetic with limited decor and furnishings. Layouts differ, but rooms are large and most are composed of two or more different spaces separated by sliding screens. Most units have lovely indoor "porches" or small sunrooms with floor-to-ceiling paned windows that overlook the garden or the river and mountains. All rooms are also furnished with low tables flanked by floor cushions where meals are served. Beds consists of futons that are laid out and prepared nightly by the staff, and put away during the day. Standard amenities include flat-screen TVs, mini-fridges, telephones, and free Wi-Fi. Closets offer storage space and safes. Only one of the rooms has a private en-suite toilet (a high-tech Japanese Toto variety) as well as a private hot spring bath. Other rooms utilize the communal indoor baths. Note that the nearby river is quite loud and might pose a noise issue for some, but many guests enjoy the sounds of the rushing river. 

The main draw of the hotel is its indoor onsen, a communal hot spring bath (separated by gender) that uses natural spring water pumped from over 300 feet (100 meters) under the ground. Attractive wooden floors are paired with white marble sinks, and there are three different tubs, including a pine wood tub and one made of rocks, as well as several showers. Toiletries (even hair combs and razors) and hairdryers are supplied, while toilets are the Japanese high-tech variety with built-in bidets. Toilet slippers are provided.

Breakfast is included in all rates, and dinner can also be included. Guests have a choice of Japanese or Western-style breakfast, while dinner is the traditional kaiseki, a multi-course meal made up of many small dishes utilizing seasonal and local ingredients. All meals are served in-room at a previously agreed upon time. There's also a bar on-site that offers karaoke, as well as a banquet room for special events. Wi-Fi is free throughout the property.