The Ritz-Carlton New York Central Park Rating: 4.5 Pearls

Midtown West, Manhattan, New York City

Horse carriages at the entrance

Many hotels claim to be synonymous with one superlative or another. ("Our name is synonymous with service .... ") With the Ritz, it's precisely the opposite: the superlative "ritzy" comes straight from the hotel's name. Even the Four Seasons can't say that. ("This fruit is so four-seasonal .... " Um, nope.)

Formerly the St. Moritz Hotel, this Ritz -- which features 259 rooms (including 47 suites) in a 33-story limestone building on Central Park South (the southern border of the park) -- was bought by Ritz-Carlton in 2000 and reopened in 2002, the same year their other NYC hotel, in Battery Park, opened. The two are similar in many ways. Both boast rooms with panoramic views. Each features a popular bar, an excellent gym, and a name-brand spa. Given that prices are twice as high at the Central Park edition, you have to conclude that what you're paying for here is the location.

Is it worth it? Not for me. The natural light and modern art of the Battery Park property's lobby outweigh the old-Manhattan charms of its uptown counterpart, and I'd be remiss if I didn't mention the horse carriages on Central Park South. More precisely, the smell of the horse carriages when you step outside the entrance, especially on a hot day. Basically, you get what you'd expect from a Ritz -- doting service, damask tasseled curtains, white-gloved bellmen -- but the "wow!" factor is missing.

The most special aspect of the hotel is probably the Star Lounge, right off the lobby -- specifically, its famous bartender, Norman Bukofzer. Legend has it Norman can meet you once and remember your drink 10 years later. I can't confirm that, but he did make me a mean White Russian, and when my drinking companion asked for "a vodka-based cocktail, not too sweet," he simply nodded and mixed up a nameless pineapple-tinged concoction. "I made you this because you remind me of the islands," he said. (Note that Norman only works weeknights.)

Luggage trolleys

According to the corporate website, the Ritz's motto is, "We are ladies and gentlemen serving ladies and gentlemen," which makes the place sound a bit snootier than it actually is. Yes, the staff dresses formally, and when I dialed from my room, I was addressed as "Mr. W______." But overall, it's more warmth and efficiency than old-New-York aristocracy.

There's always a doorman to open the front door, hail a cab, or help with your bags. The multilingual concierge desk is open from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m. When I checked in, the woman at the front desk offered me a bottle of water, then guided me to my room and gave me a brief tour. When I ordered a DVD and a shaving kit at 1 a.m., both arrived within ten minutes. The live wakeup call includes a weather report and, if you want, a follow-up call 15 minutes later. You get the point.

The issue, though, isn't whether you're getting phenomenal service -- for $600 a night, you'll get phenomenal service -- it's what you're getting compared to the other $600-a-night places. And the Ritz, alas, doesn't match up to its New York rivals. The Plaza and the St. Regis, for instance, have 24-hour butlers and free limo service (a Bentley at the Plaza, a Rolls at the St. Regis). The Ritz's limo service, meanwhile, is no more.

View on a Larger Map

The Ritz is on 59th Street, also known as Central Park South because it forms the southern border of Central Park. It's a busy street during the day, as the corporate skyscrapers, prominent hotels, Fifth Avenue shopping, and the park assure ample foot traffic (to say nothing of equine traffic -- 59th is a major horse-carriage-ride launching point). But since the main nearby tourist attraction, the park, empties after dark, the area quiets down at night.

If you're in town primarily to see Times Square and catch a few Broadway shows, you might prefer a hotel closer to the action. Although nothing in midtown is very far, the epicenter of Times Square (at 42nd and Broadway) and most Broadway theaters are a good half-mile away. On the other hand, the Ritz would be an excellent option for those seeking to avoid the chaos of Times Square while still remaining within walking distance of the most tourist haunts.

And besides, the immediate area boasts plenty of attractions. Carnegie Hall is two blocks south. Lincoln Center, on the Upper West Side, is 10 to 15 minutes away by foot, three to five by cab. And then, of course, the two biggest draws of all: the park to the north and Fifth Avenue -- home to Bergdorf Goodman, Saks, Tiffany, and dozens of others -- one block east.

The Superior Park View Room

With the exception of a few enormous -- and enormously priced -- suites, the Ritz's standard rooms range from 425 to 450 square feet, which is large for New York, but not quite as big as those at some other upscale hotels (the Four Seasons comes to mind). In addition to the king-size bed, there's an extra-stuffed chair and a desk with a padded chair, and plenty of room to maneuver. You also get several closets, including a walk-in.

The layouts and sizes of three different types of basic rooms -- superior, deluxe, and parkview -- are basically identical. The difference is the view. Superior rooms are ninth floor and below; Deluxe are 10th and above. Parkviews are deluxe rooms and suites with -- shocker -- views of Central Park; they include telescopes and bird-watching manuals. (Try to catch a glimpse of Pale Male, the famous red-tailed hawk who lives on Fifth Avenue.) Given that deluxe rooms run only $50 more than superior rooms and are sometimes even the same price, the upgrade is worthwhile. Noise shouldn't be an issue on any floor. The windows are thick, and 59th Street is relatively quiet at night. I was on the fourth floor, overlooking the road, and the only sound I fell asleep to was the ticking of the gold Howard Miller clock on the nightstand.

The beds are what you'd expect from a Ritz: a plush but firm Sealy Posturepedic "Ritz-Carlton Sleep Experience" mattress, 400-thread-count Fili Casa 100% Egyptian cotton sheets, and Pacific Coast-brand feather mattress cover and pillows, which have received the American Down & Feather Council's Seal of Approval, for those keeping track. (It took me longer to write that sentence than to fall asleep on that bed.)

The rooms are fairly low-tech for the price. No iPod docks, no surround sound, no electronic Do-Not-Disturb buttons like they have at the Four Seasons. The Sony TVs, 27-inch flat-screens, show basic cable plus HBO. Fortunately, my entertainment system included a CD player and a Barbra Streisand -- A Happening in Central Park CD. Fortunately -- and this time I mean it -- the DVD player comes with an impressive movie collection, including every Oscar winner for Best Picture and a selection of films with Central Park scenes -- a nice touch.

The bathrooms are up to Ritz standards -- spacious and beautiful. Highlights include the soaking tub, the Frédéric Fekkai bath products, and a shower with Niagara-like water pressure. Silk-and-cotton terry bathrobes ("Made especially for the Ritz-Carlton New York Central Park") and super-soft 100% cotton towels ("Made especially for the Ritz-Carlton") round out the cushiness.

Massage room at La Prairie Spa

The fitness center isn't huge, but it's impressive. It has cardio machines with private TV screens and headphones (four treadmills, three ellipticals, two bikes), half a dozen strength-training machines, and a set of free weights, plus specialized equipment like fitness orbs and ergonomic "flex sticks." Amenities include a well-stocked magazine rack and copies of the Times, though there's no free bottled water like there is at the other Ritz's gym.

La Prairie struck me as small for a world-class spa -- just six treatment rooms -- but it gets rave reviews. Indeed, La Prairie is an elite brand -- the only other one in the country is at the Beverly Hills Hotel.

Wi-Fi is fast and reliable, but it's $15 a day. The hotel accepts pets under 60 pounds -- for a fee and a signed waiver. Finally, the Ritz-Carlton Club lounge, on the second floor, features drinks, light snacks, and -- best of all -- views of Central Park.

On the one hand, the Ritz has a very adult vibe, with a classy decor, relatively formal service, and an upscale restaurant, BLT Market, with an artisinal menu that doesn't cater to children.

On the other hand, cribs and rollaway beds are available ($75 extra for rollaways) and fit easily in the large rooms (though the rollaways can't be used in rooms with two double beds). The DVD library includes a small selection of kids' movies, and the hotel is within easy walking distance of many of the Park's kiddie activities, including the children's zoo and the Central Park Carousel.

With the exception of a few nicks and luggage-wheel stains on the walls in my room, everything was exceptionally well-maintained.

Breakfast at BLT Market

The restaurant at the Ritz is called BLT Market. For those of you as unrefined as I was before my stay, you should know that BLT stands not for bacon, lettuce, and tomato but rather for Bistro Laurent Tourondel -- as in the renowned French chef who was named the 2007 Restaurateur of the Year by Bon Appétit magazine. With this branch of BLT, Tourondel has tossed his own bon name into the trendy ring of eateries focused on artisanal, farm-raised, and locally grown edibles.

So how is it? Well, I was only able to eat breakfast there (dinner is not served on Mondays), but given that my ($22) waffle was a bit dry and the bill came to more than $45 (with $9 OJ and $8 coffee), I can't say it was worth the price. And other guests tend to agree with me.

The Star Lounge serves appetizers and snacks, and there's always the Ritz's renowned 24-hour room service.

Your best option, though, is to head out to one of the many notable restaurants nearby. This is an upscale neighborhood, so a good sit-down meal will cost you. Of note: Aquavit (Scandinavian fare), Nobu 57 (trendy fusion Japanese), and Italian favorite Trattoria dell'Arte (on the pricey side, but great for groups).

For a meal that won't break the bank, I recommend Danku, on 57th between Sixth and Fifth avenues (a five-minute walk), which serves wonderful krokets (balls of fried stuff, also known as "croquettes") that come in flavors like chicken curry and macaroni and cheese.

New York City has three nearby airports: JFK, LaGuardia, and Newark (in New Jersey). Getting into town from JFK or LaGuardia is usually quicker than from Newark, but travel times are heavily dependent on the time of day and traffic conditions. From JFK, a taxi to anywhere in Manhattan costs a flat rate of $45 (plus tolls) and typically takes around an hour. From LaGuardia, a metered cab ride to midtown Manhattan costs about $40 and can take 30 minutes if traffic is light, three times that if it's bad. Rides from Newark cost at least $40 plus tolls and can take more than 90 minutes. It's customary to tip your driver 15 to 25 percent.

Those looking to save money can use the privately run shuttle buses available at all three airports for about $14 per person. For more information, go to Super Shuttle or New York Airport Service. Public transit is also available for as little as $7 per person, but travel can take up to two hours and involve lugging bags up and down stairways.

For mass-transit directions right to the hotel, check out HopStop.com.