Sunset at the Palms Rating: 3.5 Pearls

Negril, Jamaica

Guests relax in the pool

No buildings at this resort are more than two stories tall, and in the main dining area a grand vaulted ceiling accounts for the height. The tranquil open-air lobby and shady entrance immediately induce a sense of calm.

The resort is decorated in a Balinese style, with dark-wood floors, carved wood furniture, and louvered windows.

SATP has a luxurious feel, but it's also eco-friendly. In 1998, it became the first hotel in the world to receive certification for environmentally sustainable tourism from the U.K. organization Green Globe.

The open-air lobby has a series of wooden roofs and ceiling fans, and a mixture of dark wood and stone floors. Mellow reggae music played as I entered, though at one point a man took to the piano near the Martini Bar. Interesting lamps and statues are scattered around the lobby, and I found a wonderfully large, carved wooden daybed to curl up on and surf the free wireless Internet.

The resort's clientele consisted almost exclusively of couples -- mostly British by my count -- although there were also two large wedding parties that included a couple of kids.

Ideal for couples, rooms are dark and romantic with large, multihead showers. Dinner is by candlelight, and a singer with an acoustic guitar plays mellow tunes while people eat. At the beach I counted three different couples kissing in the water, and two others strolling down the beach holding hands. In a way, Sunset is the anti-Hedonism II.

The resort is small and offers no real evening entertainment or daily activities. Any kid who doesn't enjoy chilling by the pool or playing at the beach would probably get bored.

The property is filled with various species of flowers and labeled palm trees, hence its name. A special perk here is a daily walking tour with the head gardener, Shorty. Every room feels tucked away and secluded, and even the pool receives lots of shade from the towering palm trees overhead.

The resort is technically “all-inclusive,” but that just means guests don’t need to stress over paying for drinks, meals or water sports. The vibe blissfully lacks the techno music by the pool, wacky evening entertainment and industrial one-size-fits-all service mentality typical of many all-inclusives resorts. In fact, it ranks #8 on Trip Advisor’s 2009 list of the world’s best all-inclusives.

A chef at Palms Breeze Beach Bar and Grill

When I arrived at Sunset at the Palms, I was greeted by Alvin, who helped me with my bags and led me to a small desk to check in. In the background, a wonderful tropical-themed mural really sets the resort's lush, low-key vibe.

Alvin brought me a refreshing cold towel and then a rum punch, and Vanessa checked me in. She was efficient, sweet, and helpful, answering all of my questions with a big smile. She offered to store my bags because the room wasn't quite ready. I felt so relaxed entering the hotel that I could have cared less what happened to my bags.

The instructions in my room explained that laundry dropped off in the morning would be ready by 5 p.m. the next day. Since I needed fresh clothes before then, I called the front desk and the lady kindly said she would contact housekeeping to ask if they could help. Within five minutes she called back to let me know that it wouldn't be a problem. Five minutes later a bellhop arrived to collect my things. By 11 a.m. the next morning, housekeeping dropped the wonderful-smelling laundry off at my room. They'd even pressed and starched my linen garments.

The morning of my departure I headed across the street to the resort's beach. No one had told me that there weren't towels available there, but when I arrived the beach manager, Laurie, said he'd run across the street to grab one. I went in for a dip, and within five minutes of leaving the water, he'd returned with a towel. I was initially unsure about where to find a beach chair and struggled to pull one off a pile, but Randy, the lifeguard, came running over with a more comfortable chair.

Without exception, the staff was friendly, though they also seemed mellower than staff I've encountered at larger resorts. The bartenders sat back and chilled more, and waiters, though extremely attentive refilling my drinks and clearing plates, were more likely to leave guests to talk quietly amongst themselves.

View on a Larger Map

Sunset at the Palms is on the northern side of Negril along Norman Manley Boulevard and across the street from Bloody Bay (as well as the much larger -- and purple -- Riu Palace Tropical Bay).

The resort isn't beachfront, but a crossing guard is on-duty all day to help guests across the road. I tend to agree with online reviewers who said the location actually makes the resort feel quieter and more secluded.

The resort is 90 minutes from the Montego Bay Airport -- an $80 (per person) cab ride.

The beach

This beach is across the street from the hotel, but there's no reason to worry. The resort has a crossing guard on duty all day, and she quickly helps everyone across the street without a problem.

The beach is quite natural and authentic, with trees, roots, and rocks intact. One TripAdvisor reviewer also pointed out that the resort's location makes it feel more private and secluded than those where vendors will often come right onto the beach with their boats and Jet Skis. I agree.

The main drawback is the distance; it takes at least five minutes to walk from the lobby to the beach, and even longer from the guest rooms. There are no towels at the beach (what's that about?), so it would have taken me about 20 minutes to get to the resort and back if the beach manager hadn't kindly volunteered to pick one up for me.

The beach is not very big, but there is plenty of space to find private spots for lounge chairs. The resort also offers nonmotorized vessels such as kayaks and windsurfing boards.

A storm hit a couple of days before my arrival, so there was some seaweed and other debris along the shores. However, I could see staff raking it up. The water was fairly cloudy (like all the water in Bloody Bay) and occasionally I felt the slimy sensation of seaweed around my feet. But the sand on the sea floor is extremely soft. I had to walk pretty far out to get deep, but I didn't want to go too far -- there were three different couples embracing, basically reinforcing the resort's romantic tone.

The resort has a beach bar and grill on-site, but even better is the Office of Nature, directly to the right of the hotel’s beach. Locals and guests from surrounding resorts flock to this grilled-seafood hut for delicious, relatively cheap fresh-cooked lobster.

A "treehouse"

Sixty-five of the 86 rooms at the Palms are set within a series of stilted bungalows (referred to as "treehouses") across the lush property.

I was disappointed to see that my bungalow was quite near the wall separating the resort from the main road. I heard lots of road noise, including honking horns, construction vehicles, and some Jamaicans who were arguing loudly. Potential guests should request a room in the four or seven block, as these are on the back end of the property and look out over a gorgeous meadow and green hills in the distance.

Approaching the simple wooden stairs to my bungalow, which included rooms 605 and 606, I was almost reminded of a cabin at summer camp. The sensation continued as I entered the somewhat stuffy wooden hallway.

In my room, there was a smell that wasn't bad by any means, but noticeable nonetheless. It wasn't exactly musty, but reminded me of a country bed and breakfast. The scent was something like a mixture of the room's natural wood, the freshly cut grass outside, and the spicy and fabulous toiletries I was about to discover in the bathroom.

My room had a lovely king-size bed with a rattan headboard. The quilted cotton bedspread and silk throw pillows were classic and chic -- like something from Restoration Hardware -- and the platform bed was quite comfortable.

As in the lobby, the room was furnished with tasteful dark-wood, "Bali-meets-Pottery-Barn" décor, as one TripAdvisor reviewer put it). There was a spacious desk and a TV stand/drawer combo for the 26-inch Panasonic television. Rooms also receive a free Wi-Fi signal.

There was a great ceiling fan. But because the ceiling was so high, I wanted more air circulation. The room came with an air conditioner and a remote control, but no instructions. I was a little confused since it just beeped every time I pushed a button, but eventually the room seemed to cool off, so I guess it was working.

A common complaint among online travel reviewers is that the rooms are rather dimly lit, and this was definitely the case. There was just an overhead light near the door and a softly lit lamp at each bedside table. There was a nothing on the desk, and no overhead light despite the room's high ceilings. It set a romantic mood -- and perhaps it was more energy-efficient -- but I couldn't see what I was looking at as I dug through my suitcase.

Every room at the resort comes with a wonderful balcony and daybed -- perfect for reading or taking a nap. My balcony had great views of the property; I'd been looking forward to the balcony for weeks, but unfortunately the mood was killed a bit by the sounds of cars speeding down the road and the men I could hear arguing noisily right outside the wall. The daybed was still great for curling up with my laptop, though, and I could still smell the flowers and trees and hear the birds chirping. It was just slightly sullied by the noisy Jamaican traffic. Furthermore, at 7 a.m., I was awakened by a sharp pounding noise. The room actually shook a bit; it felt as if someone was bouncing a basketball off the sides of the building.

Best of all was the gorgeous, modern bathroom, which featured a slate shower with five different showerheads (though the pressure could have been a bit stronger). The bathroom also came with fantastic resort-made toiletries, including coconut and molasses soap, a cucumber and aloe after-sun balm (which soothed my sunburn for hours), a citrus body wash and shampoo that smelled like a lemon lollipop, and lager and lime conditioner. My skin felt soft and smelled great for hours! Guests concerned about privacy should be forewarned, though, that the bathroom door is basically woven, meaning that sounds carry easily and it's not too hard to see through the door.

The spa

Since guests have to cross the street to get to the beach, the serpentine pool in the middle of the property is pretty popular and crowded. Although a few kids were splashing around the palm-shaded pool during my stay, it was still quieter than those I saw at other resorts. Most people congregated around the swim-up bar, but even they were well-behaved. Sun worshippers beware: Since the palm trees tower overhead, the pool deck receives inconsistent rays of sunlight. Be prepared to hop from one lounge chair to another as the day goes on.

The lushly landscaped grounds are one of my favorite things about the Sunset at the Palms. I only regret that I wasn't able to take the daily 10 a.m. walking tour with Shorty, the head gardener. All sorts of flowers and various species of Palm Trees line the paths that meander between the bungalows, and the back of the property looks out over a gorgeous meadow and green hills in the distance.

There is also free -- and fast! -- Wi-Fi in the lobby (a pleasure in itself). Plus, they have an Internet room with one computer available free of charge for guests who don't bring laptops.

The resort has a wonderful but small spa, reflective of the low-key but upscale atmosphere. I was also impressed with the gym, which was modern and spacious; it features new equipment, including two treadmills, two ellipticals, and two stationary bikes. There is also a separate yoga studio, but I didn't see any classes taking place.

Upscale and clean rooms have a rustic feel

I noticed two slight problems in my room: one, the bedroom floor seemed a bit scuffed and maybe a little dusty. Two, the countertop underneath the sink was chipped in one corner. But overall the bathroom, bed, windows, and desk were all quite clean.

There was definitely some sort of scent to my room, but it was more nature-y than musty, and I didn't find it unpleasant. These rooms aren't on the water, so they don't get the slightly salty sea breeze found at other Jamaican resorts.

Both the restaurant and the bar were clean too. Nature-phobics might be freaked out by the open-air setting, though -- at the buffet lunch I saw a small hummingbird fly onto the table of plates. I found it charming, but others might disagree. On the other hand, the resort keeps a friendly housecat named Wally; she prowls around the lobby and keeps it free of rodents.

To keep the property free of bugs, the resort does a daily fumigation spray between 4 and 5 p.m. I was sitting nearby at the bar when it began, and although the smell isn’t overpowering, I’d suggest guests spend that hour in their rooms, at the beach, or elsewhere!

Almond tart at Palm Grove Restaurant

The resort has two restaurants: Palm Grove Restaurant, the main buffet, and the Asian-influenced Lotus Leaf, which is only open for dinner, but was closed the night of my stay.

At the Palm Grove, I had sushi and fried rice, and I found both to be delicious. There were plenty of other dishes, including grilled meats and a wonderful pasta primavera that tasted as fresh as the fragrant flora surrounding the open-air dining room. I noticed that dishes were hand-labeled, leading me to believe that the menu is prepared more creatively than at other buffets. The room was dark with candlelight and they played a CD of acoustic Spanish guitar. It was by far the quietest meal I'd had on the island.

The breakfast buffet at the Palm Grove was less varied than what I saw at larger resorts -- I missed my favorite (fried dumplings). Cornflakes were the only cereal and there was no ackee and salt fish in sight. But the food also seemed more carefully prepared and was quite tasty. I had a great slice of doughy french toast and paired it with a fluffy omelet prepared with freshly chopped vegetables. I also thought the coffee was quite good (unlike at its sister hotel, Sunset Beach Resort in Montego Bay). The setting in the breezy dining room was so serene that I didn't really want to get up once I finished. It was a wonderful way to start the day.

For lunch I sampled Leonie's jerk chicken at the Beachside Grill. It was more tangy than spicy, but the meat was well-cooked and the unspoiled beach view can't be beat. Basic grill foods like hamburgers and hot dogs, as well as local snapper, are also on offer.

A beer and a meal from Palms Breeze Beach Bar and Grill

I had a lovely afternoon drink at the pool-area bar, Bamboo. The bar is a massive, cool slab of stone with wicker chairs. Plates of fruit and cheese are available for snacking on a table nearby.

The friendly bartender Esroy made me his special drink ("the ingredients are a secret, mon!"). After days of nothing but Kirov vodka at other all-inclusives, I was happy to recognize old friends like Tanqueray and Smirnoff.

My midafternoon moment of Zen was spoiled only when a groundskeeper strode by at 4:45 p.m. to fumigate the property. Thankfully, the hotel warned guests of the fumigation by posting it on the daily activities board.

Watersports

There is no entertainment staff at this resort, other than a rotating schedule of evening musicians. I was too tired to head out to either of the bars, but the next morning I spotted a Scrabble box on the counter at Bamboo, the pool bar. This seemed about right given the mellow atmosphere.

Negril is filled with great live music venues and dance clubs, so it's not like these options are out of guests' reach. But there's no wild partying on site.

During dinner, a very mellow singer-songwriter billed as "the one-man reggae band" played at the Palm Grove Restaurant. I wrote in my notebook, "like the Jamaican version of John Mayer or James Taylor," and shortly thereafter he busted out with ""Fire and Rain"." He also threw in a few Jamaican-themed tunes, like ""Don't Worry, Be Happy"" and ""Three Little Birds"." He was quite talented, but it was far from lively or "reggaefied."

Palm Grove, one of multiple reception options

• Wedding Size: Up to 75 people; maximum of three weddings performed daily

• Extra Fees and Restrictions: Guests not staying at the hotel must purchase a $38 day pass (cheap, compared to the $75 and over fees elsewhere). However, couples must book a minimum of five nights in order for a wedding to be held.

• Wedding Packages: The Bliss in Paradise package costs $700 for up to six guests ($25 per additional guest) and includes a marriage officer, a wedding certificate, a wedding coordinator, a decorated ceremony area, a bottle of champagne, a single-tiered wedding cake, recorded music, a bridal bouquet, a boutonniere, two 5-by-7 or one 8-by-10 photograph, and a champagne toast. Alternative packages range from $1,100 to $2,000.

• Ceremony Location: Couples can choose between the garden or the beach (though, it's worth noting that the beach is open to the public).

• Photographers and Videographers: The hotel provides photographers, which are included in some packages. If you don't opt for a package, a photographer ranges from $150 for 12 4-by-6 photographs to up to $580 for 100 digital images on a CD. A videographer ranges from $320 for the ceremony, cake cutting, and first dance to $600 for full coverage of the ceremony and reception. Outside photographers and videographers are permitted, but there's a $250 fee.

• Music Options: Reggae band, $500 per hour; steel band, $300 per hour; DJ, $100 per hour; outside bands permitted (for an extra $250 fee)

• Reception Options: You can book a private reception at the Lotus Leaf restaurant, otherwise receptions in Palm Grove, the garden, and the beach are in view of other resort guests. Menu options, which include soups, salads, entrees, and deserts, range from $28 to $74 per person, depending on the food chosen. An open bar costs $17 per person and an additional cocktail hour with hot and cold hors d'oeuvres cost $38 per person.

• Cakes: The basic wedding cake costs $100; a three-tier cake costs $350 (plus $60 for an optional cake topper) and another $80 for each additional tier. Couples can choose between vanilla, chocolate, or Jamaican fruit cake. If you want a special cake design, you can send pictures to the in-house pastry chef.

• Flowers and Decorations: Flowers and decorations are included in most of the standard packages. If you don't opt for a package, flowers and decorations -- a wedding arch ($300), chair decorations ($60 each), table centerpieces ($80 to $100 each), a bridesmaid's bouquet ($60), and flower petals and a flower girl basket ($100), just to get started -- can add up quickly.

• Spa Treatments: The Jamaican Bride package, $175, includes a half-hour massage, mani/pedi, and hair pinup.

• Airport Transportation: No airport shuttle or free transport service; taxis average $80 per person (one-way).

• Honeymoon Suite: There is no "official" honeymoon suite, but all of the guest rooms are generally dark and more romantic than a room at a more conventional mega-resort. However, some rooms are more secluded than others -- be sure to request one that is away from the main road.