The Caves — Hotel Review Rating: 4.5 Pearls

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Oyster Hotel Review

Reviewer: Kate M.
Updated: May 22, 2010

 Scene

The Caves is one of the last hotels along Negril's West End Road, which essentially terminates around the corner at Negril Lighthouse. The entrance is a royal blue gate topped by a mystical-looking sign -- a hint at what's inside.

The Caves was opened by a Rastafarian artist couple, Bertram and Greer-Ann Saulter, in 1994. Bertram designed each of the unique cottages and furniture (much of which is hand-carved), and Greer-Ann dreamt up the whimsical interiors, which are heavy on colorful batik prints and Jamaican crafts. Recently, The Caves was bought by Island Outpost, a hotel group owned by Jamaican music legend Chris Blackwell -- the same man that exported the music of Bob Marley to the world. Island Outpost also owns the Geejam and Jake's boutique hotels in Jamaica.

One gets the sense that The Caves' cottages were built around the lush canopy of fruit trees, rather than over them. For instance, one of the cottages is named Blue Hole, and is actually adjacent to a natural blowhole in the ground that peers down and into one of the caves. Some rooms don't even have air-conditioning, and all lack TVs. Instead, the rooms come equipped with mosquito nets (though I had no need for them).

No children are allowed on the property, and even when the resort is full, there are no more than 22 guests (mostly honeymooners) wandering the grounds. During the day, most guests are out sunning themselves along the rocks. But there are so many multi-level platforms, it feels like you're entirely alone.

Technically, the Caves is "all-inclusive," insofar as all food and drinks are included in the daily room rate. Guests never have to deal with carrying around their wallet to pay for meals or leave tips. But there is no buffet, no nighttime entertainment, no plastic ID bracelet, no swim-up bar, and no techno music blaring by the pool.

The Caves is definitely considered the plushest accommodation in town. But a similar, ever-so-slightly-less special experience can definitely be had elsewhere along the Cliffs, for a lot less money, in other TV-less boutiques like Tensing Pen or the Rockhouse.

 Celebrity Sightings

Naomi Campbell, Harrison Ford, and Sadie Frost have all stayed here, and it's particularly convenient for celebs because they can arrive by helicopter just around the bend at Negril Lighthouse. I didn't spot any during my stay, but that's kind of the point: It's incredibly easy to feel you have the property all to yourself. Eat breakfast in bed, lunch on a private cliff landing, and dine in a cave ... all without seeing other guests. What makes the Caves extra special, though, is that the staff truly treats everyone like a celebrity.

The resort also played host to a shoot for the famed Sports Illustrated swimsuit issue in 2007.

 Service

On arrival, guests are greeted with signature welcome drinks. They present their credit card information, leave their bags (they're delivered separately to the room) and receive a quick tour of the property -- the private hot tub that can be booked for sunset, a cigar bar within a cave, and the countless jumping cliffs across the property. During my tour, the front-desk clerk asked about my interests and recommended particular activities in the area that she thought would best suit me.

Throughout the hotel, service is incredibly personalized and attentive. At meals the staff describes the two entrees in mouthwatering detail, and the menu compels guests to "Remember that you can order a combo! Anything else requested can be accommodated, never a problem!" Well-praised for his tours, the water sports director, Paul, even graced me with a high-dive demonstration off a nearby cliff. The resort is well-guarded by a large gate, and every time I came and went the guards would give me a big hello, and when I returned at night in the dark, one of them escorted me to my cottage with a lantern.

There is also a nightly turn-down service, in which housekeeping leaves soothing music playing on the CD player and custom incense burning on the bedside table.

 Location

The Caves is along a particularly quiet stretch of the West End Road along Negril's quiet cliffs. A number of bars, including LTU, Sexy Rexy's and the famous Rick's Cafe are all about a five-minute walk away, but most of the guests I talked to never bothered to leave the property. For anyone who wants to tour the area, the Caves offers bikes and bike tours around Negril.

 Beach

Like other resorts along Negril's cliffs, the Caves doesn't offer a conventional beach with sand. Instead, it has a series of platforms carved into the cliffs with comfortable lounge chairs and varying levels of privacy. I enjoyed plunging into the water from the 30-foot ledge near the breakfast lounge, but also took smaller dives from ledges just a couple of feet above the water, and was also able to take a ladder down into the water. You can even swim into some of the larger caves, which are a popular spot for snorkelers.

There is a small raft about 100 feet offshore. You can swim out to the raft for a dive, though the choppy waves this far out make it easy to fall off. Although the swimming area is bordered by buoys, it's still an open sea with deep water, and at times the waves can get pretty rough. I loved swimming in the dark turquoise water, but people who aren't strong swimmers might find it a bit intimidating.

Free water-sports equipment, including kayaks and snorkel gear, is available on-site. The resort also provides phone numbers for companies that rent out Jet Skis, cruises and charter fishing excursions. The water-sports director is available to lead complimentary snorkeling trips (Mondays and Thursdays) and kayaking trips (Tuesdays and Sundays) around the Caves and along the Cliffs.

 Rooms

I stayed in one of the resort's three stand-alone, one-bedroom cottages, Two Birds, a funky blue building with stained-glass windows set in a thicket of ackee trees near the back of the property, just around the corner from the main office and breakfast lounge. One Drop and Stardust, the former owners' residence, are the other stand-alone one-bedroom cottages. The six other one-bedroom suites are paired on the first and second stories of three other cottages.

While Two Birds, One Drop, and Stardust can be specifically booked (though Stardust only over the phone), guests can only book either an upstairs (Butterfly, Bird's Nest, and Macka Tree) or downstairs (Blue Dolphin, Blue Hole, and Sea Turtle) suite, but cannot book a specific room. If a guest does have a specific room to request, though, management does its best to be accommodating (but can make no promises).

There's plenty of privacy in all rooms, but every suite except for Two Birds has ocean views. Two-bedroom suites Sun Dancer and Moon Shadow also have kitchenettes and dining and bar areas. These two buildings, along with Stardust, are set closest to the ocean, and all three offer fantastic balconies and terraces on both the upper and lower floors.

Sun Dancer, Moon Shadow, Two Birds, and One Drop are the four room options that include outdoor showers. Sea Turtle and Bird's Nest both also include tubs.

Like all rooms, Two Birds has a round, open-space bedroom with lots of angles built into the walls. Two huge louvered windows (and a louvered front door) anchor the A-frame cottage, and with the windows open and the ceiling fan spinning it was cool enough that we barely needed the air conditioner. I had no issues with bugs flying into the room, though at one point a cockroach did scurry in through the front door. The stone floor was cool and bare, save for a few rustic straw rugs.

Each room has an extremely comfortable pillow-top mattress set atop a platform bedframe. One Drop and Two Birds each have a queen bed, while the suites each have an American king. My room had a cozy sitting area with a red wicker love seat and coffee table, as well as a table and chair set up near a mini-fridge filled with complimentary cold drinks like beer, water, juice, and an assortment of liquor. The fridge also included simple snacks like Oreos and Ritz Bitz crackers.

Since the resort is owned by music impresario Chris Blackwell, it's no surprise that the rooms come with a CD player and iPod dock, as well as a collection of groovy island-inspired music. Rooms do not come with televisions or DVD players, but both can be obtained by special request from the front desk. From my room, I was also able to pick up a weak Wi-Fi signal from the lobby area. Nearby One Drop and Sun Dancer pick up a signal as well, but for the other suites there's currently no guarantee.

Technically speaking, Two Birds' bright white bathroom is pretty small, with just a toilet, a small sink, and some shelves. The one-bedroom suites all have much larger bathrooms since they also include tubs and/or showers. All bathrooms feature a nice selection of locally produced Blue Mountain Aromatics toiletries, the same brand used at the fantastic Fern Tree Spa at Half Moon.

Only a slatted door separated my bathroom from the bedroom, so noises did travel, making for perhaps the resort's most intimate experience of all. The outdoor shower is surrounded by a high wall and fruit trees, so there's plenty of privacy. The showers are fantastic, especially under the moonlight, but I did notice two little crabs scurrying away as the water began to run.

 Features

The resort has a very small saltwater pool and Jacuzzi, both of which offer fantastic sea views. Though the pool is cool and refreshing and the views spectacular, it's right in the middle of the property, adjacent to the breakfast and lunch restaurant, so the area offers far less privacy than the various landings carved out of the cliffs. For pool buffs, nearby resorts Tensing Pen and the Rockhouse Hotel each have larger infinity pools perched along the Cliffs.

The spa is on the opposite side of the property. It's not much of a complex -- just a massage room that was occupied when I stopped by, a sauna with ocean views, and a private hot tub that can be booked for sunsets. Make sure to reserve a sunset soak early, as these can be very popular. Treatments are fairly extensive and reasonably priced, ranging from $18.70 for a scalp massage to $150 for a "Caribbean Body Therapy" scrub and massage.

There's no fitness center on-site, but free group yoga lessons are also available on Wednesday and Saturday mornings (private lessons can also be arranged for $50/session). The resort also leads free bike tours around the area, and guests can take bikes out on their own at any time.

The resort has a small shop that sells tropical attire, logo apparel, cigars, and other random Jamaican souvenirs. It also carries Chris Blackwell's line of rum. In the corner of the shop is a desktop computer with free Internet access.

 Family

Due to its dramatic -- but precarious -- location along Negril's cliffs, the resort does not allow children under 17 on the property (the nearby Rockhouse allows kids over 12 and Tensing Pen allow kids of any age). This greatly enhances the quiet, romantic, laid-back atmosphere.

 Cleanliness

With ceiling fans, incense, and endless flowers, the air was never heavy or sticky during my stay, only sweet and clean. True, I did spy an enormous unidentified insect scurrying across the floor, and showering outside caused a close encounter with some crabs, but every piece of furniture, every surface, and every plate was in pristine condition.

 Food

Because the Caves is so small, it does not have an enormous variety of dining options, even though it's all-inclusive. Breakfast and lunch are served in a breezy lounge overlooking the water next to the lobby building. Dinner is in a separate, more dramatically lit building adjacent to the caves.

At each meal, guests are generally presented with two to three entree choices, as well as fruit and salad. At lunch, for example, I was offered pumpkin ginger soup, fresh salad, and a choice between jerk glazed chicken and vegetable lasagna. "You can have all of it, and if you can't decide which you want, you can try some of each," my friendly server told me. I went with that option, and everything on the plate was delicious. For dessert: fresh-baked snickerdoodles and fudge brownie a la mode.

For dinner, guests have two appetizers and two entrees to choose from (though they're again encouraged to sample every dish if they like, and are also told "Anything else requested can be accommodated, never a problem!"). A sample dinner menu can be found here; again, note the emphasis on fresh local ingredients like rock shrimp, callaloo, and coconut. The menu is equally likely to offer simple Jamaican staples like beef patties or jerk chicken as it is grilled beef tenderloin, fusili pasta, or a roasted leg of lamb.

Room service dining is also quite popular here, and it's part of the all-inclusive package. Guests can order anything they want off the menu (or make special requests) during the same hours that meals are served: 7:30-10 a.m. breakfast, 12:30-2:30 p.m. lunch, and 7:30-10:30 p.m. dinner.

In the afternoon, a basket of fruit and an array of fresh-baked goods are left out to snack on. There is also a freezer filled with ice cream. Due to the staff's laid-back attitude and the all-inclusive package (everything's free or, more accurately, is included in the room rate), dining at the Caves really feels more like you're staying with friends. Very generous, gourmand friends.

The resort also has two actual caves for private dining at no extra cost (though reservations are required). One of the caves fits only two people, and the other can accommodate up to six. Both are of course extremely popular with the honeymooning crowd. Though, given the dinner's dramatic nature, most of the guests I spoke to felt that it was best as a one-time experience.

 Drinks

The Sands, the resort's cliffside bar, is open to the public for sunsets from 4-7 p.m., and is especially popular on Tuesday nights when it serves jerk chicken. Drinks are also served in the evening at the cavernous cigar bar, though it was closed for a private event during my stay.

The Caves has one of the best all-inclusive liquor selections in Jamaica. The bars are all stocked with a wide variety of brands -- as a vodka drinker, I was particularly pleased with the many flavors of Absolut on offer -- and unlike at other all-inclusive hotels the bottles definitely aren't watered down. The bars of course purvey Blackwell Rum, which is also available for sale in the resort shop. Rooms also come with Appleton Rum, Smirnoff Vodka, Teacher's Whiskey, Old Town Gin, and a bottle of red wine, and guests are invited to make themselves drinks at the breakfast and dinner lounges if no one is around to accommodate them.

 Destination Weddings

The location is great for those looking to reserve an intimate, quiet space with breathtaking views, but if you want to invite more than 26 people, expect to pay an additional fee per person. And at this adult-only resort, children are only permitted if you book all 11 guest rooms and the one villa (the entire hotel sleeps 34 people).

• Wedding Size: Up to 100 people, but children younger than 16 can only stay on the property if all 12 rooms are booked; no minimum number of guests required and only one wedding is held each day (unlike some of the larger resorts, which sometimes host as many as seven weddings each day)

• Extra Fees: If you don't stay at the hotel, there's a $2,500 location fee; only up to 26 people are included in the wedding packages, so there's an additional $125 to $175 per extra person depending on package.

• Wedding Packages: Basic Romance Wedding Package costs $1,000 and includes a minister, wedding coordinator, marriage license, bridal bouquet, groom's boutonniere, a chocolate or vanilla wedding cake, a bottle of champagne, and two hours of photography. Alternative packages include a two-tiered Jamaican rum cake, a floral arch, and centerpieces, and can cost upwards of $4,850 (if you book the entire hotel) or $7,650 (if you don't book the entire hotel).

• Ceremony Location: Most wedding ceremonies and receptions are held at The Sands, which can accommodate up to 100 people; only one guest room, the Stardust, faces the Sands (and this room is recommended for the bride and groom to ensure a private ceremony).

• Photographers and Videographers: In-house photographers are provided, and the cost is included in the various wedding packages ; In-house videographer available, costs vary from $200 for just the ceremony to $950 for the ceremony, cocktail party, and dinner reception (outside photographers and videographers are permitted, but there's an additional $250 vendor's fee).

• Music Options: In-house reggae band provided for reception, $2,000 for three hours and $2,500 for five hours; DJ for reception, flat $1,200; steel band or drummers for cocktail hour, $500 per hour with two-hour minimum; singer and acoustic guitarist, $250 per hour

• Food and Drinks: Food, including hors d'oeuvres, and alcohol (available 5 to 11 p.m.) is included in the cost of the packages; vegetarian options available.

• Spa Treatments: Hair, makeup, and manis/pedis are all done by an on-call stylist; various spa menus and packages are offered and can be booked online.

• Honeymoon Suite: No honeymoon suite, but one room, the Stardust, faces the Sands atop the edge of a cliff and includes a private view of the ocean; note: the Stardust is the only room which must be booked over the phone.

• Airport Transportation: Two-hour, $80 taxi (one way) from Montego Bay International Airport

 Bottom Line

Arguably Jamaica's most romantic escape (for adults only), the Caves' 11 unique, private cottages and suites are tucked along lush garden paths and dramatic seaside cliffs (there's no beach). High-quality, locally focused cuisine, a top-shelf bar, and intimate, incredibly attentive service make it Jamaica's best all-inclusive, though nearby Tensing Pen and Rockhouse offer similar settings at cheaper prices.