Natura Cabanas Rating: 3.5 Pearls

Cabarete and Sosua, Dominican Republic

Lobby's sitting area

Natura Cabanas is located, rather bizarrely, at the end of a dirt road behind an upscale gated community of expats. Only a small sign announces the resort's presence. One of my cab drivers actually took a couple wrong turns before he found it at night. Guests are dropped off in a small dirt parking lot. Off to the left is the main lobby building, which is really only a bit larger than any of the 11 stone-and-wood bungalows tucked among the palm trees and pebbled pathways. In fact, on more than one occasion I thought I was climbing onto the lobby's front porch when in fact I was entering another guest’s bungalow!

The resort is owned and operated by Soledad “Lole” Sumar, a Chilean expat who built the resort in the 1990s with her now-deceased husband. Lole and her four daughters -- they look like a family of models -- sometimes vacation on the property and help out, as they did during my visit. However, one local resident told me they are actually "glamorous jet-setters." Even still, their presence made for an extremely welcoming, personal vibe that differed from the bored, transient staffers at most all-inclusives.

Lole and the front desk clerk, Hilo, both told me that the resort gets a lot of American guests. This is no surprise, given its glowing coverage in Travel and Leisure and Condé Nast Traveler. At the same time, though, Hilo told me there were a fair number of cancellations for this spring because of the faltering American economy. The resort also gets guests from Europe, South America, and Canada.

A review in Frommer's calls Natura Cabanas, "a sunny, not particularly stressful, summer camp for adults and their children." That’s a fairly accurate assessment. True, the resort isn't exactly luxurious, but it’s definitely upscale (at least the food is wholesome). Quiet vacationers who don’t want the poolside speakers or impromptu dance competitions will love it.

Tasty desserts made fresh in-house

When I first pulled up to Natura Cabanas I was actually a little baffled. There’s no main building and therefore no bellhop to greet guests. Fortunately, the owner, Lole, had just pulled up in her own car and ran over to greet me warmly. A fit Chilean clad in a tank top, jean skirt, and sandals, she looked more like a fashionable guest than a hotel staffer, but I dug the casual vibe. (Note: She had no idea I was reporting on the hotel, and just assumed I was a typical guest.)

After I filled out some check-in forms, Lole presented me with vouchers for free drinks at the restaurant and proceeded to take me on a low-key but lively tour of the small, intimate property. "Isn't the beach amazing?" she asked with a giant smile. "It's totally private and not at all crowded!" She also showed me around the small but luxurious spa, where one guest was basking happily after completing an aromatherapy steam bath.

Finally Lole and one of the housekeepers escorted me to my bungalow and carried my bags along the graveled path. It was clear to me that this is a low-key operation, but again I appreciated the chillness in comparison to the typical lobby pandemonium at most all-inclusives.

Later that night, I needed to use the telephone, and since my bungalow didn't have one, I went over to the front desk. A friendly clerk named Hilo gave me the hotel's portable phone and helped me with my calling card. Believe it or not, it was the easiest phone call I made in my travels.

At each meal, the service was warm and friendly, but extremely slow. In such a rustic setting, and given the freshness of the food being prepared, I had no problem with the pace. But impatient eaters should be advised to make other arrangements. Perhaps that's why most of the bungalows have kitchenettes.

View on a Larger Map

Natura Cabanas is along the main highway between Sosua and Cabarete, about a half-mile east of Breezes Puerto Plata. The only sign along the road is for the Perla Marina, a gated community of expat mansions that guests ride through on their way to the resort. The resort itself is at the back of the property, along the water.

Natura Cabanas is about 20 minutes and a $25-$30 cab ride from Gregory Luperon International Airport in Puerto Plata. It's about 10 minutes in either direction to the towns of Sosua and Cabarete, which are both filled with shops, restaurants, and bars. It cost me 500 Dominican pesos (about $14) to take a cab from the resort to downtown Cabarete, a hopping expat kite-surfing town filled with bars and cafés.

Clear water and soft sand

The cabanas have a small private beach. The beach is naturally buffeted by rock formations on either side. Still, it's easy enough to walk over the rock clusters and continue on to surfer haven Playa Encuentro or Cabarete. Although residents of Perla Marina also use the beach, there were never more than two or three other parties around me. There are plenty of beach chairs to go around. Furthermore, the cozy spot is extremely clean and the sand is quite soft.

As in Cabarete, the waves are a bit rough (though not too rough). They're excellent for bodysurfing. Along these lines, the sea floor is quite smooth, and the water is shockingly clear. This is hands down the best beach I swam at on the north coast.

Beautiful stone bathroom

Natura Cabanas consists of just 11 stone-walled, thatched-roof bungalows. The owners gradually constructed each bungalow one at a time since opening the property in 1996. Rooms range from studios to three-bedroom units. I stayed in the Piedra (Stone) studio. Others have whimsical names like Playa (Beach), Africana (African), and Caracol (Conch). All are eco-sensitive, meaning there is no AC, light bulbs are energy efficient, and guests must manually activate (and then shut off) hot water when showering. Rooms also have no televisions and no phones.

My dimly lit room centered around a firm king bed, over which was draped a mosquito net. The two-story ceiling had a nice fan, and with the ocean breeze blowing in I didn't even miss the AC.

In keeping with the eco-sensitive theme, most of the furniture was constructed from the bamboo and coco palm trees that were cleared to construct the property. This includes a dark, intricate dresser (topped with a bottle of Chilean merlot for sale) and an elegant kitchenette and mini-bar.

All rooms come with an amazing stone bathroom. Although there are thick stone walls separating the bedroom and bathroom, the roof is so high that neither is really soundproof. Noises will carry from the bathroom. In fact, due to the large louvered windows, noises even carry from one bungalow to another. I heard the giggles of the cute little French boy in the bungalow next door through much of the afternoon.

But back to the totally rad bathroom. When I arrived I discovered flower petals placed absolutely everywhere, from the sink, to nooks in the tub, to the top of the toilet seat. There was no shampoo or lotion, but there were two bars of handmade soap. Each smelled like a blossomy breeze wafting through the windows (gush). The round shower-tub had no curtain, but was so large that it simulated the rush of taking an outdoor shower, especially given its smooth stone floor and slatted windows looking out on a thicket of green trees. Though at first I found the idea of a manual hot-water heater a bit daunting, I took a long and luxurious shower and never had any problems with the temperature. The pressure was perfect.

Every bungalow at Natura Cabanas has a wonderful, large porch that includes a table, chairs, and a hammock or swing. After an afternoon of bodysurfing at the resort's private beach, I actually fell asleep in the early evening twilight. How could I not with the sound of birds singing and waves pounding the shore in the background?

Yoga and pilates studio deck

Natura Cabanas is small and low-key, but that doesn't make it boring. True, peace and relaxation are the name of the game here, so lying on the gorgeous, tranquil beach tends to be top priority. However, the resort also helps arrange excursions to nearby waterfalls and horseback riding trails for those looking for a dose of action.

The resort also has a small kidney bean-shaped pool tucked behind the yoga building. Judging by the few leaves floating in it and the lack of lounge chairs, I assume it's not used too often. Not that I blame anyone -- the amazing beach is just steps away. Furthermore, the small, luxurious Attabeyra Spa offers a range of body treatments reasonably priced at $40-$100. After looking at one of the stone massage huts and a somewhat opulent outdoor shower, I envied the guest I met who'd just done an aromatherapy massage. He was positively glowing from the experience.

The resort also offers yoga and Pilates classes two to three times a day in its extraordinary second-story yoga temple, which overlooks the ocean. I peeked into a popular evening Pilates class -- packed mostly with local expats -- and realized I'd never seen such a spectacular setting for exercise. I am surprised no one has filmed a workout video there yet. Furthermore, the resort even offers yoga for kids on Wednesdays and Saturdays.

One of my favorite features of the resort, and a refreshing counterpoint to its otherwise low-tech atmosphere, was that it had several free wireless hotspots around the property, including in the lobby and at the daytime restaurant Karaya. In fact, because my bungalow was so close to the restaurant, I was able to pick up a signal from my bedroom.

Fresh fruit crepe at Natura Restaurant

Natura Cabanas has two restaurants. Karaya serves breakfast and healthy lunch fare, while at dinner the Natura Restaurant has fusion dishes featuring a bounty of the area's freshest seafood and produce. Both restaurants are near the beach and offer tranquil views and a lovely ocean breeze.

Breakfast at Karaya is included in the room rate. It's a simple affair, featuring one hot dish -- during my stay it was fluffy pancakes -- and an assorted buffet of fresh breads and fruit. There is also fresh Dominican coffee and a plethora of fresh-squeezed fruit juices. It's not the most expansive breakfast, but I didn't want to fill up before hitting the beach.

For lunch at Karaya, I had a fresh, citrusy ceviche and a spring salad with almonds, avocado, and local grapefruit. It was light and refreshing, and truly felt like the first healthy meal I'd eaten in the D.R. -- a big upgrade from the hideous all-inclusive buffets. Even better was the freshly squeezed fruit juice -- this was only of the only places that had real juice in the D.R. It's available in nearly every tropical flavor, including pineapple, mango, papaya, orange, and my personal favorite, passion fruit (chinola, as the locals say). I was actually the only hotel guest eating in the open-air courtyard, but the restaurant is also quite popular with residents of the adjacent Marina Perla community. It seems like a local gathering spot.

The Natura Restaurant is just across from Karaya in a slightly larger, more refined space (though it's still open-air and thatch-roofed). Warmly lit with soft guitar music playing in the background, the restaurant has an open kitchen with seating at the bar to view the chef at work. For dinner, the highlight of my meal was a delicious "Shrimp Natura" (sautéed shrimp) -- a local specialty -- tossed with a special mix of curry and a creamy rum-based sauce. The two entrées I tried -- cocoa filet mignon and filet of grouper with gnocchi, shrimp, and anise -- were equally wonderful. For dessert I had fresh fruit crepes topped with chocolate sauce. All told, the meal lasted for almost two hours. But I was too stuffed and satiated to complain. My gut was well-fortified for a long night of clubbing in nearby Cabarete.

The Natura restaurant, the only reception site offered

• Wedding Size: Up to 70 people

• Extra Fees: $2,200 deposit required for booking the entire property; no day pass required for non-hotel guests

• Wedding Packages: Just one standard package: $2,500 includes the cost of the venue, the officiant, the wedding coordinator, the certificate, the bouquet for bride and maid of honor, a boutonniere for groom and best man, local flowers, a DJ during the ceremony, and a bouquet for the ceremony table.

• Ceremony Locations: The beach and the yoga pavilion

• Reception Location: Natura restaurant; the restaurant is open to other guests if you don't book all 11 guest rooms.

• Photographers and Videographers: Both start at $400 each; outside vendors permitted at no extra fee.

• Music: A DJ is included in the standard package, but a live band costs $400 for the entire evening; outside vendors permitted at no extra fee.

• Food: A Dominican buffet ($35 per person); an international buffet ($45 per person)

• Drinks: Packages range from $420 for 2.5 gallons of champagne or sangria, four bottles of wine, 30 bottles of beer, 30 mixed drinks, and 20 soft drinks.

• Spa Treatments: With advance notice, the hotel can contact an outside provider who can offer hair styling, manis/pedis, and makeup at the spa.

• Honeymoon Suite: The hotel will decorate their honeymoon suite prior to the couple's arrival with flowers and a bottle of champagne.

• Airport Transportation: 20-minute, $25 to $30 cab ride from the airport