The Setai Rating: 5.0 Pearls

South Beach, Miami, Florida

The courtyard

Ultra-sleek style and an attentive, discreet service ethic characterize the Setai, which has been called one of the "Sexiest Hotels in America".

Opened in 2005 on the site of the 1930s Art Deco Dempsey Vanderbilt Hotel, the Setai is owned by Singapore-based GHM Hotels, which runs a collection of luxury hotels, mainly in Asia. The hotel says it strives for an "Art Deco fusion" design concept; lead designer Jean-Michel Gathy used antique gray bricks imported from Shanghai (apparently another capital of Art Deco architecture), Burmese teak latticework handmade by Chinese craftsmen, and a bronze Balinese fireplace to achieve this effect in the hotel's two lobbies (one for the original Art Deco hotel building, and one for its new construction, a 40-story residential tower ).

"The ideal hotel in South Beach to stay at if you want peace," says one TripAdvisor reviewer. With its tranquil, landscaped courtyard (complete with Zen pool), the Setai certainly is peaceful. .

On the other hand, it arguably missed the mark in terms of embracing local color. "South Beach is a resort town, a confection of ice cream flavored Art Deco," says another reviewer. "But not the Setai. The front door looks like a service entrance -- without much service."

Indeed, the Setai looks more like an anonymous office building than an Art Deco landmark. The original white and cream building has no noticeable signage, and without the ring of luxury cars parked in front, you probably wouldn't recognize it as a hotel.

The hotel's carefully manicured grounds, lined with sweeping palm trees, a lush, walled-off pool complex, and a spotless beach, more successfully balance relaxation with the colorful South Beach surroundings.

The Setai attracts a well-heeled international clientele, including families, singles, and stylish business travelers. It's also popular with celebrities (see below) and even has a newly opened recording studio designed by Lenny Kravitz.

The front desk

I've spent over a decade vacationing in Miami Beach and generally found customer service to be lacking. That is, until I stayed at the Setai. From the freshly mixed tropical fruit juice and cold hand towels presented at check-in to the hand-delivered letter confirming my dinner reservations to the doting poolside drinks service and refreshing water spritzes on the beach, I received the perfect amount of attention: neither too smothering nor too aloof. I especially appreciated the chocolate cookies and large glass bottle of Evian left at my bedside during turndown service.

It should be mentioned that a number of reviewers on TripAdvisor complain about inconsistent, indifferent service, especially from the front desk and beach attendants. Though I encountered no such issues, I can see where some would find the staff's demeanor to lack warmth.

View on a Larger Map

The hotel is between the Bass Museum of Art and the equally trendy, slightly louder Shore Club Hotel. Restaurants and shops like Nobu, Ago, Bond St. Lounge, Atrium, Scoop, Sky Bar, Mynt and Rok Bar are located within half a block.

The hotel is about a 25-minute, $32 cab ride from the airport.

The beach

Considering how crowded South Beach can get, the Setai's amazing beach -- which makes Oyster's Best Beaches roundup -- is almost shockingly empty. Teak lounge chairs (covered in plush, slate-colored cushions) are spread a comfortable distance apart.

The army of attentive staffers will keep you refreshed with misty spritzes of Evian water, and is of course happy to deliver cocktails and snacks so that you never have to lift a finger except to venture into the surf. Other service items include towels, magazines, and even iPods.

While the staff works to keep non-guests off the beach (and out of the fancy chairs), there's little it can do to shut out noise from nearby hotel beaches, particularly the livelier Shore Club next door.

The City View Studio Suite

Waking up in my luxurious junior suite was a little confusing -- though enormous and richly decorated, nothing about it hinted at the vibrant city or beach outside. Dark teak floors, a built-in couch with ash-colored micro-fiber cushions, a black granite soaking tub, and a heavy, brown Oriental rug had me feeling like I was in a grand hotel in Hong Kong or Singapore.

The lack of an iPod dock was surprising for a hotel this attentive to detail. (Instead, rooms come equipped with a Bose CD/DVD surround system.) And the plasma TV was quite small considering how far it was from the bed.

On the plus side, the Dux bed and sateen sheets were luxurious, and the state-of-the-art Lavazza espresso machine brewed delicious drinks.

The dark, heavy mood continued in the bathroom, where the enormous and strangely austere rain shower featured floor-to-ceiling black tiles. Sexy? Definitely. Especially if you don't want to really see your partner. On the other hand, I liked the double vanities on opposite ends of the bathroom and the fancy toiletries from Italian parfumer Laura Tonatto.

The Setai's 85 rooms average an astounding 600 square feet each, and the 45 suites in the residential tower range from 900 to 3,500 square feet. For this New Yorker, that's just ridiculous!

The pool

I'm just going to say it: The Setai's grounds are the most beautiful in South Beach. Without three beachfront pools -- yes, three -- how else would you be able to swim first in a pool of 75 degrees, then 85 degrees, and finally 90 degrees?

Some guests have griped on TripAdvisor that music carries through the bushes from the rowdier Shore Club next door, sometimes overpowering the Setai's own, mellower tunes.

A fully equipped, spacious gym looks onto the hedge-protected pool area, as do the spa's second-story treatment rooms. The gym also offers personal training, yoga, and Pilates lessons.

The Asian-themed spa's treatment menu is comprehensive, to say the least. (Who knew there were six ways to perform a bathing ceremony?) As to be expected at a hotel that charges $600-plus for a room, most spa treatments are fairly pricey: Massages start at $180, facials at $150, and manicures at $60.

Among the resort's more gratuitous perks are a Lenny Kravitz-designed recording studio, located in the 10,000-square-foot penthouse suite, and an Asprey jewelry boutique.

Celebrity sightings at the Setai, where the enormous rooms easily accomodate a posse, are really too numerous to mention. Everyone from Jay-Z to Cat Power has laid down tracks at the Lenny Kravitz-designed recording studio, and the hotel regularly plays host to major fashion and entertainment events.

The Setai welcomes kids. The hotel's Web site features a great section on children's attractions. But it's also the kind of place where nannies are usually around to keep the high spirits slightly in check. Still, I saw happy children splashing at the pools and on the beach; if Mom and Dad want to pay upward of $600 a night for the kids, the Setai is happy to accommodate them.

The City View Studio Suite

Upon check-in I was told I'd have to wait to go up to my room because "the director of housekeeping [was] inspecting it." This was a first for me -- though it happened again a couple months later at 60 Thompson. But the high level of care truly shows. As I walked the corridor to my room, I even saw a maintenance man touching up scuffs on the walls with a small paintbrush.

A couple guests on TripAdvisor complain about dirty windows in their rooms. I couldn't find a speck of dust on mine. And everyone is in agreement that the restaurant, lobby, grounds, and pool area are immaculate.

The Restaurant at the Setai

Award-winning chef Jonathan Wright heads up the Asian-influenced Restaurant at the Setai, which is well regarded if exorbitantly expensive. The 15,000-square-foot space, which dominates the second floor, includes an exhibition kitchen. The restaurant serves daily breakfast (7 to 11 a.m.) and dinner (7 p.m. to midnight on weekends), as well as Sunday brunch (11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.).

The Grill, a slightly cheaper option, offers oysters, churrascaria-style meats, and seafood. Entrees average about $50, Groups of two or four can indulge in one of several tasting menus.

The Pool and Beach Bar, though pleasantly situated along the pool deck, was also disappointing for the price. It serves breakfast from 8 to 11 a.m. and light lunch fare from 11:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.

The Bar and Courtyard is a popular place for drinks and socializing, particularly under the stars in the Zen courtyard area. The menu features $15 to $20 cocktails and tasty, Asian-influenced bar bites -- think beef satay, spring rolls, dumplings, and chilled shrimp.