Palermo Viejo, Buenos Aires Travel Guide
Palermo Viejo Summary
- Attractive area with cobblestone streets and historic buildings
- Upscale shops and restaurants
- Vibrant nightlife
- Young, bohemian atmosphere
- Expensive dining, shopping, and lodging
What It's Like
Part of the massive Palermo neighborhood in northeast Buenos Aires, Palermo Viejo, literally meaning "Old Palermo," is an attractive area with oak-lined cobblestone streets and low historic buildings in the old Spanish style architecture. Today it's a hip spot with block after block of upscale restaurants, bars, and shops, but only a couple of decades ago it was a dilapidated neighborhood of run-down warehouses and crumbling historic homes (though Argentine poet Jorge Luis Borges has always written fondly of it). Its resurgence, however, has made Palermo Viejo one of the ritziest areas in the city, and it attracts many tourists and locals during the day and night.
Palermo Viejo can be divided into two sections: Palermo Soho to the south and Palermo Hollywood to the north. On Palermo Viejo's southwestern edge, lively Palermo Soho is a small neighborhood that's very similar to New York City's SoHo, with cobblestone streets and tons of upscale boutiques. Most of the shops and restaurants are centered around Plazoleta Cortazar, which is a late-night gathering spot for those coming and going from the bars. Across the train tracks is Palermo Hollywood, the quieter (and not quite as gentrified) counterpart to Palermo Soho. Though Palermo Hollywood also has an active nightlife, it attracts an older crowd than Palermo Soho.
Where To Stay
Palermo Viejo is a popular place to stay among those looking forward to fine dining, shopping, and partying. Palermo Soho is slightly more expensive and covenient than Palermo Hollywood, but both neighborhoods are solid options and there are many hotels in the area.