Travaasa Hana, Maui

Formerly Hotel Hana Maui, Travaasa Hana, Maui's history reads like a recap of the baby-boomer generation. Born in 1946 when a Californian developer bought 14,000 acres of land for a ranch and six-room inn, it slowly expanded and developed a hippie ethos of sorts -- local, organic food, meditation and yoga classes, and no clocks or TVs in rooms -- in the remote wilderness of East Maui. Renovations over the years have given guests more creature comforts, though there's still no air-conditioning or tech aside from phones in rooms. At Travaasa Hana, Maui, visitors will encounter a remote natural setting, though no direct beach access, a faithfulness to the local Hawaiian culture, and spacious stand-alone bungalows with terraces that overlook the ocean or garden. The service is on par with luxury resorts, and with only 71 units on the property, the vibe feels intimate. Grounds are expansive here and divided into garden and ocean sides, the latter of which requires key card access. Staff are on hand to shuttle guests around via golf carts, and tipping them isn't allowed.

In the end, however, location is everything, and it makes it or breaks it for visitors. Its secluded East Maui setting offers something not found anywhere else on the island: rainforest-like landscape along craggy coastal cliffs with waterfalls and gulches within miles of the resort. For some, these surroundings, plus the resort's bare-bones technology (no TVs, alarms, air conditioning, or radios in the rooms), are worth the dizzying drive on Hana Highway's 37 miles of unyielding twists and turns. Visitors can also opt for a short plane ride form Maui's main airport to Hana Airport, a 12-minute drive away. For others, the isolation, lack of direct access to a sandy, calm beach, and windier, rainier weather are enough to keep them on the other side of the island, basking in the unwavering sun with hundreds of others and sending the children off to the Xbox-filled rooms at the kids' club. For those who want it, this is an ideal blend of luxury and rustic.

Hana is in East Maui, on the island's windward coast, and is reachable by a highway that's the island's most beautiful road -- and the most difficult to drive. Guests can also opt to fly to Hana Airport from Kahulaui, a 20-minute flight on an eight-seater plane. The hotel will provide this airfare complimentary when you book a three-night all-inclusive package. This side of the island is greener, wetter, and windier than most of Maui, where almost all resorts stick to the leeward coast for its far dryer, more consistent weather. The Travaasa Hana, Maui wouldn't be what it is without its verdant, unspoiled natural surroundings (and Hana wouldn't be much without the hotel). The hotel isn't a beach resort in the tradition of most Maui hotels: It overlooks the ocean but its nearest swimmable beach is about 10 minutes by car, and guests are likely to spend as much time driving and hiking to the natural landmarks along the coast as going to the beach. There is a red-sand beach that can be reached via a nearby, somewhat treacherous trail, but the hotel doesn't advise it due to the questionable safety of reaching it.

• Secluded location in East Maui is great for peace and quiet, but there's barely anything near the hotel in the way of businesses or restaurants (driving to larger towns like Paia takes at least two hours from here). Some food trucks, a small grocer, and a couple restaurants are in the immediate area.
• Located on Hana Highway, a 37-mile road that curls along the side of a cliff, with blind curves, single-lane no-passing zones, and tight switchbacks, but the stunning views reveal a completely different landscape from any other part of Maui.
• Two-hour drive (not accounting for sightseeing) on Hana Highway from Kahului Airport
• 10-minute driving from Hana Airport, an alternative to driving the road to Hana; only eight-seater commuter flights from Kahului Airport come here; The flight lasts about 20 minutes and the hotel will arrange pickup. (Tip: The hotel will provide complimentary airfare from Kahului for certain packages.)
• On Maui's windward side, so rainier and windier than the rest of the island (hence the vastly greener landscape)
• The Hana coast offers an abundance of hikes, waterfalls, and untouched beaches, but you need to know how to get to them -- ask a concierge or use a guidebook.
• Hamoa Beach is a 10- to 15-minute drive away, and the hotel runs regular shuttles.

Though the resort is located on Hana Bay, the property is on a cliff overlooking the Pacific Ocean, with no direct path to the beach or the water. Instead, the resort provides a free shuttle back and forth to Hamoa Beach, a beautiful but rugged sandy beach with waves suitable for surfing. There are other beaches in the area (most are secluded, and conditions along all East Maui's beaches are generally rough), but the resort provides services and shuttles only to Hamoa Beach, a popular and well-regarded crescent-shaped stretch of sand. Attendants at Hamoa Beach provides lounge chairs and beach umbrellas for guests only. There's also a red-sand beach that can be reached in about 10 minutes via a nearby, somewhat treacherous trail, but the hotel doesn't advertise or advise it due to the questionable safety of reaching it.

Travaasa Hana, Maui's single-story cottages house everything from junior suites to three-bedroom, two-bath suites. All the units are spacious and decorated in a serene, contemporary style -- think pale-green walls, simple wood floors and furniture, and Hawaii-themed artwork such as surfers on the walls. The overall look is simple elegance. To enhance the tranquility and focus on nature, there are no TVs (except in Waikaloa Suites) or music players provided, though Wi-Fi is free and accessible and phones are supplied in rooms. All units also lack air-conditioning, though ceiling fans and screen doors that let in the ocean breeze keep things cool. Highlights are the big furnished patios or terraces that come standard, all with loungers, plus daybeds for upgraded units. Views vary between the resort grounds and ocean.

Bathrooms are also top-notch, with bathtubs and separate showers, Travaasa-branded toiletries, hairdryers, and bathrobes, but no slippers. Standard amenities include mini-fridges, coffee- and tea-making facilities, welcome banana bread, sofas, desks, and comfortable bedding.

The Ocean Bungalows are located on the oceanfront side of the property, closest to the Wellness Pool and Wellness Center. A gated entrance here requires key cards for entry. The Garden Suites are on the lobby side, closest to Preserve Kitchen + Bar. The Waikaloa Family Suites are also on this side, adjacent to a three-hole pitch-n-putt, and they have up to three bedrooms, full kitchens, dining areas, and cable TVs in the living spaces.

Half the fun of being in Hana is exploring the area's lush verdant landscape and stunning coast -- inland hikes to the area's many waterfalls, gulches, and springs, or outings to find the many hidden beaches. That said, guests who tire of natural beauty (or just want a break from challenging Hana Highway driving) will find plenty to do on-site. There are two outdoor pools -- one with an infinity edge overlooking the ocean and another in the gardens by a game room area. Most tend to hang around the sea-view Wellness Pool, which has an adjacent hot tub and bar serving cocktails and light meals. Also in this area is a fire pit, and guests can purchase a s'mores-making kit. The windowed Wellness Center over here hosts several daily yoga and meditation classes.

On the garden side, the pool sits next to Makana Center, where there are ping-pong tables, games, and books for borrow. Ukulele and Hawaiian spear-throwing lessons are offered here as well. Tennis courts and a fitness center with cardio and strength-training machines are available, as is horseback riding for a fee. A three-hole pitch-n-putt is also on-site.

The Spa at Travaasa Hana is highly regarded, offering stellar massage and body treatments like a traditional Lomilomi massage, sugar cane scrub, and facials for men. Multiple outdoor hot tubs are available, as are saunas, steam rooms, and cold plunges. Locker rooms with robes and slippers are available. The all-inclusive package includes a $175 resort credit per person per day, which can be used toward spa treatments and private classes.

An art gallery and gift shop are available. Both parking and property-wide Wi-Fi are free.

Dining options at and around Travaasa Hana, Maui are limited. On-site, The Preserve Kitchen + Bar serves three well-regarded meals each day, with an emphasis on local ingredients, seafood, and Hana-raised beef. A separate bar area is also open through the day, and doors open to a terrace with distant ocean views. All-inclusive packages are available, which includes three meals and non-alcoholic beverages. The hotel also manages Hana Ranch Restaurant, located just a few minutes' walk away, though food is reportedly average for the price. Room service is available 24/7.

A couple stores sell grocery items and liquor in the immediate area. There are a few other dining options nearby, including the highly regarded Thai Food By Pranee and a food truck area for burritos, coffee, and poke bowls.

At the time of this review, the all-inclusive package called Total Travaasa costs an extra $250 per person per day. The package includes everything in the regular room rate, as well as adds three daily meals at Preserve Kitchen + Bar, and a $175 resort credit that can be used for spa treatments or private classes. The least-expensive massages, facials, and body treatments cost $175.

Travelers that book at least three nights on the all-inclusive package receive free flights from the main airport in Maui to nearby Hana Airport.

This isn't the most kid-friendly resort, and guests tend to be couples on vacation, but families are nonetheless present. There's not a kids' club, but the Makana Center has games, books, a computer, and foosball and ping-pong tables. Daily activities such as lei-making, ukulele lessons, and slacklining are available, with some age restrictions. The lack of TVs in all rooms aside from Waikaloa Suites can be a downside for some families with kids, though Wi-Fi is free and reliable across the property. The two pools also appeal to kids. Staff can also organize excursions like horseback riding, kayaking, and snorkeling trips.

Wedding Size: Up to 200 people

• Extra Fees and Restrictions: All couples must stay at the hotel at least two nights, purchase a wedding package, and make a nonrefundable deposit in order to book a wedding.
• Wedding Packages: The most basic wedding package, the Hana Wedding Package, includes a wedding coordinator, a choice of any of the outdoor ceremony locations, a license, and an officiant.
• Ceremony Locations: Hamoa Beach, the Plantation Guest House, the Wellness Pool, Ocean Lawn, and Coastal Bluff
• Reception Locations: The Hamoa Beach Pavilion, the Plantation Guest House (the most private location), the Wellness Pool Pavilion, and more
• Food and Alcohol: All food and beverages (including alcohol) must be purchased through Travaasa with the exception of the wedding cake